My New 2019

[Newsa]

That is what I said in almost 60K in 4 years, once after the fact I thought it was in regen. I just drive it. Was down to a half a tank of DEF today and we leave in a few weeks for Az. So I poured a box of Peak Blue DEF in it at WM and let them recycle the box. Date code was 20131 and there are 121 days left in the year. So it was manufactured 10 days ago, and has a WM label the read 8/25. The Supertech DEF jugs had with crystal all over them. 4 or 5 bucks cheaper for it. My truck has only had Peak Blue DEF in 4 years.

Yeah. How sloppy is that to have white powder crystal all over the outside of the jug. Saw sone really cheap carcraft like that and passed it over.

 

[Cummins12V98]

So almost 60K on my 2015 and I think once after the fact I figured it had been in re-gen. So I just do not worry much about it. SnoKing

In nearly 68k I have no idea if or when mine has been in regen.

 

[Wayne M.]

In all of the Diesel powered equipment at my job, the 6.7 Cummins powered street sweepers are the most trouble free of them all. Never a regen or a DEF related issue.

 

[TFucili]

In old-school shop manuals at the beginning of each sub-section there would be a "theory of operation" which outlined the overall function, what parameters needed checked, and a series of if/then explanations. I am no longer watching the DPF gauge, but still just seek an understanding of the system operation. I know it doesn't matter, and it's probably a fool's errand at that, but it's how I am wired.

 

[Wayne M.]

My “Service information” disk that I bought for my ‘14 from Tech Authority does just that, and just enough info to get through some tasks, or into deep doo doo.

 

[AH64ID]

I did 885 miles towing over the last 5 days and another 275 slow miles (Yellowstone NP). I saw 1 regen in those 1158 miles, and it was on our 2nd morning after towing 365 miles the day before. EGT's were in the 800-900°F for most of the previous day, anyhow got up and got on the road. The truck went into regen as soon as the coolant was above 160°. It lasted about 15 miles, my longest yet. Even knowing when regen is happening I cannot see anything on the dash that is a tell-tale, mileage doesn't dip, etc.

Anyhow fast forward to the tow home and I am pretty sure I was running hot enough that it did a full DPF cleaning as my DPF backpressure was 0.00 upon arriving at home. I guess 65 mph with 30 mph headwinds will do that, considering the instant mpg was reading 6-8 for a couple hours on end. EGT's were 800-900° for most of that time.

So I am not overly sure of the strategy yet, or how effective passive regen is under normal conditions. I still go into active regens getting 9-10 mpg towing, but 8-9 mpg seemed to clean out the DPF. How many people are sustained below 9 mpg enough to actually get passive regen to be effective? I'll drive the truck a little this week and see if it goes into active regen in the next few miles.

 

[AH64ID]

After some more research, and note taking, I am confident that both of my last 2 regens were time based. The truck will go into active regen when it's been 24 hours of run time since the last regen.

I am starting to think passive regen is quite effective with DPF outlet temps above 600°F, based on DPF back pressure.

I'm curious how it will play out this winter, as I only have about 600 more miles towing this next month and then I'll be done for the season.

I'll also have my first hunting trip next month with lots of low speed and low duty cycle.

 

[TFucili]

Thanks for the info. Mine went into regen again with the gauge on zero, so clearly there are other parameters in play.


I have not updated in a while. I took it in a week or so ago for three items. I had already obtained a case number from FCA.
1. The 12" display continues to do weird things, change radio sources, lock up, get stuck on the rear or front camera, even if I have not selected them. They said there is nothing that can be done until FCA comes up with a reflash/update.

2. My rear air ride shows a ride height difference left to right. I measured it in my garage, and on the apron outside. They said the truck is straight and my garage is crooked. I figure a scale is about as flat a slab as I will find, so when I take the truck to get it weighed I will measure again.

3. Last is the 2-1 Slip/Slam downshift, or shift flare, or whatever terminology du jour. They steadfastly refused to do a ride-along so I could demonstrate it. "Don't have time for that". My house is 5-7 minutes away. They ran some diagnostics, then "test drive vehicle-could not duplicate customer complaint". FCA did not contact me until I already had the truck back, unfortunately. They seemed puzzled that the dealer would not do a ride-along, and said they would call back. When they called back the dealer weaseled out by saying the update for the U-Connect would fix this. This is clearly not so, and does not correspond with their own work order. My goal was to have them gather data to upload to the mother ship, so the issue could eventually be addressed. Right now it's a chicken/egg scenario, where the dealer can't fix it with out a reflash, but the reflash will never come unless the issue is addressed.

I am well aware that this is not an Escalade. I have driven trucks since I was waaaaaay too young to have a license. I actually appreciate firm, solid shifts, and in general, the upshifts are pretty good, but this 2-1 deal is ridiculous. There is not one person who has ridden with me that felt the slam and either outright said, "What the *&#$ was that", or gave a glance that said the same. At this point, I am pretty disappointed.

 

[Ozymandias]

I've driven as a passenger with RVTRKNs 2019 HO Aisin for a couple hours and the shift quality impressed me, it is almost as smooth as my Hemi with the 65RFE that is for me the benchmark.
It never shifted harsh, it never slammed in any gear, it never did inappropriate shifts - it's perfect in every direction.
With trailer and without, in TH or Normal, with full EB or none, always smooth.

Conclusion- something on your truckn is wrong, out of spec or else - it isn't working as it should, without an update - as RVTRKNs Truck runs perfect.

Insist with the the Dealer an FCA to get this solved. Otherwise- Lemon.

 

[TFucili]

I don't disagree, but my buddy has a 2019 3500 SRW that does the exact same thing. What are the odds of some fluke happening to two trucks built months apart in a town of 7K people?

 

[Ozymandias]

That's really strange yes.
And for this i don't have an answer.

 

[RVTRKN]

I have tried several different ways for the truck to run with and without EB, T/H and locking out 5th and sixth. I think I'm going to settle with "D" EB off and T/H on. The EB is alot more aggresive than my C&C, and when empty, it's real agressive in conjuction with T/H. When I set the gear selector to 6th and watch the gears shift under acceleration/deceleration in T/H, it won't upshift until it's needed, and holds the gear acting as an engine break during deceleration.

In Drive alone, it wants to stay in the highest gear and it reminds me of the 2014 2500 with the 68RFE. Its better than with the 3:42 rear diff though, however it does still struggle a little when you try to accelerate at 1200 RPM, there is a long (seems like it) pause before it responds.

I'll run EB and T/H when a trailer is connected for obvious reasons.

 

[Wayne M.]

So sorry to know this, Tom.

 

[Bug Out]

Off the subject, I was vaguely contemplating going to a 6.4 gasser when my warranty expires to pull the TH at 17K. What was your experience?

 

[TFucili]

Off the subject, I was vaguely contemplating going to a 6.4 gasser when my warranty expires to pull the TH at 17K. What was your experience?

The 6.4 did a good job, even when handicapped by the 66RFE. The new ones with the 8 speed ZF should be better. It would do pretty well at maintaining speed, so long as you are willing to put the spurs to it, and let it rev out. If you can't stand hearing a small-block scream for miles on end on a grade you will not like it. Obviously, there is no exhaust brake, so care must be taken on long descents. The trans would drop gears, but with 17K pushing from behind you will run out of revs and be using the service brakes quite a bit, so slow down at the top. It generally ranged in the 7.5-8.5 mpg realm in my use. I have not done any long tows yet, but, to be honest, I don't think my CTD is going to do a whole lot better, based on a 200 mile test pull I did. I generally tow in the 65-68 mph realm, except in Commiefornia. All that said, there is a HUGE difference in how easily the CTD pulls grades, and comfortably eases down with the EB.

The other thing with the 6.4 is they are subject to getting "Hemi Tick"(lifter noise)just like the 5.7. Some do, some don't. Mine did. I tried OEM/Pennzoil PUP 0W40 oil, Amsoil 0W40, and finally ended up with 5W40 Redline being the only thing that would keep it quiet for any length of time. There are also cam/lifter failures popping up. I am interested to see if Ram responds to the 7.3 Ford gasser.

 

[Bug Out]

The 6.4 did a good job, even when handicapped by the 66RFE. The new ones with the 8 speed ZF should be better. It would do pretty well at maintaining speed, so long as you are willing to put the spurs to it, and let it rev out. If you can't stand hearing a small-block scream for miles on end on a grade you will not like it. Obviously, there is no exhaust brake, so care must be taken on long descents. The trans would drop gears, but with 17K pushing from behind you will run out of revs and be using the service brakes quite a bit, so slow down at the top. It generally ranged in the 7.5-8.5 mpg realm in my use. I have not done any long tows yet, but, to be honest, I don't think my CTD is going to do a whole lot better, based on a 200 mile test pull I did. I generally tow in the 65-68 mph realm, except in Commiefornia. All that said, there is a HUGE difference in how easily the CTD pulls grades, and comfortably eases down with the EB.

The other thing with the 6.4 is they are subject to getting "Hemi Tick"(lifter noise)just like the 5.7. Some do, some don't. Mine did. I tried OEM/Pennzoil PUP 0W40 oil, Amsoil 0W40, and finally ended up with 5W40 Redline being the only thing that would keep it quiet for any length of time. There are also cam/lifter failures popping up. I am interested to see if Ram responds to the 7.3 Ford gasser.

I'll stick with the Cummins....Thanks.

 

[Wayne M.]

I see how my 5.7 Durango can’t engine brake itself down a moderate grade, I couldn’t imagine it trying to hold back ANY trailer. I’ve seen the tach at close to 4000 and I was still going too fast.
Tom, what’s the latest on the ‘19?

 

[dieselshadow]

I've found most manufacturers have tuned out most gasoline engine braking. If I set cruise control on my work rig, it has AMAZING engine braking, similar to old school manual transmission vehicles had. Once back in normal driving mode, only coasting, zero engine braking. I *guess* that's due to mpg mandates. It's easier to get higher MPG if you don't slow down but coast.

 

[TFucili]

Tom, what’s the latest on the ‘19?

I am just driving it, Wayne. I may take another crack at them after a while, but I have a low tolerance for BS these days. I am waiting for the dealer to ask me what happened with that Rubicon my wife was looking at...

 

[Wayne M.]

I've found most manufacturers have tuned out most gasoline engine braking. If I set cruise control on my work rig, it has AMAZING engine braking, similar to old school manual transmission vehicles had. Once back in normal driving mode, only coasting, zero engine braking. I *guess* that's due to mpg mandates. It's easier to get higher MPG if you don't slow down but coast.

Yes, I agree. But the scenario I laid out above was in cruise. Out of cruise, it’ll shoot down a grade like Bullet in 8th.