I may have to get a 68RFE in my new truck.

[Ozymandias]

plugged into the 50 amp and I've got the temperature 155 degrees so hopefully that would be sufficient to keep anything from freezing for the next 48 hours.

Yeah i think 155F is shy hot enough to keep it from freezing

 

[Cummins2014]

Why have it connected to water? Is the hose heated?

It has a water tank, use it when it’s below freezing out. It doesn’t take much time at all below 32° for hoses to start freezing.

Thats true on the hoses, was staying in West Yellowstone one fall, they had us turning off the water, and disconnect the hoses, wanted us to run off our water tank ,and pump at night . I have hunted in cold weather, and, the drain spout on my water tank on my fifth wheel was froze up , and wouldn't drain, everything else was okay, the spout finally warmed up enough for me to get the tank drained .

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I can't believe it okay guys it is a cold 19 degrees here in Danville Virginia the front tires are at 7473 and then the rear tires are at 4747 4645 so yeah they dropped a little bit I must say but that's okay man that's the lowest temperature we've seen in like a year so well 911 whatever there is a bunch of bunch of time so all right just wanted to give you a little picture guys so I had set the tires at 55 and now they're down to 4747 4645 and the front * 74 + 73.

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I'm going to have to go 40 miles to go check on the RV but I'm pretty sure it's okay specially with the heated underbelly just an update guys I'll let you know when I get to the RV I'll take some photos later guys have a great day.

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I can't believe this full moon at 6:41 a.m. it's beautiful wow here's a picture.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Why have it connected to water? Is the hose heated?

It has a water tank, use it when it’s below freezing out. It doesn’t take much time at all below 32° for hoses to start freezing.

YEP! Bad Idea having the water connected in freezing weather, unless you have a heat tape attached to the hose.

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I am at the RV right now everything seems to be pretty good guys however one of those little blue canister water filters that goes on the water spigot out you know near the ground that kind of burst on one side so that's not a big deal but everything else is okay I just connected the water I've got the pump on right now and I've got the electric water heater on and everything seems to be hug honky donkey very good so hopefully nothing was damaged or nothing like that tonight's going to be like think 21° I'm here for a little while then I'm going to go back to Danville which is 49 miles so basically everything's okay just got one casualty and that's that little canister water filter the little blue ones that look like a big hot dog that is blue.

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I see voice to Text does not always work correctly I disconnected the water hose from the outside spigot that had the little blue water filter on it that looks like a super duper huge hot dog so that's okay everything's fine guys thanks for all your help when I leave tonight I will turn off the hot water heater and the pump and Jay coat at it today told me that the the bottom of the RV as long as the furnace is on is heated so nothing should freeze.

 

[Ozymandias]

You connected to city water a storage unit?
What's the sense in this?

I really think you should talk face to face with an experienced RV'r.

It hurts what are you doin, you need a lot to learn in a short time.

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I was connected to City water overnight and the little filter burst and we got rid of that that's fine and I disconnected and everything and I now everyone it doesn't matter everything's good.
I was connected to city water and I was told that the hose would probably not freeze which it did which didn't really do any damage it was just the filter that was on the spigot out on the ground near the ground that was a problem that's fifteen bucks the RV is heated in the underbelly all the water everything the tanks everything is heated long as the furnaces on providing heat to the RV that stuff is fine so I'm good everything is good I've got like 50 gallons of fresh water and I am going to go home to Danville Virginia which is 49 miles away and everything is good I'm going to leave The heat at 55 degrees in the RV while I'm at home I'll probably pick it up tomorrow or Thursday not sure but yes I've learned quite a bit but yeah I made one mistake I left the water the city water on and that was the mistake I should have just did what my wife said my wife said no you don't need to put the water cuz you got water in the freshwater tank should you need to use the bathroom or wash a dish or two you know it dishes in the sink just a little bit. Thanks for your help everything is good no problems just got to get a little water filter the canister water filter that looks like a giant hot dog.

 

[AH64ID]

It was mentioned that hoses feeeze fast under 32° and that if you need water to use the tanks and not a hose.

You should heed Ozy’s advice, or it will likey be an expensive learning curve.

But yes, your talk to text almost makes it so it’s not worth reading. People are time out of their day to give you help and advice, so taking the time to type out a legible post should not be too much to ask.

 

[Cummins12V98]

The blue filter is JUNK and expensive. Mount a 3/4” whole house filter inside your RV. Less expensive and better filtration.
Leaving a filter outside in the direct sunlight is a bad idea!!!

AH64ID, I agree on the hand typed messages!!!

 

[Timd32]

Couple observations on this.

NEC 80% rule puts your max load at 40A for a 50A breaker. So you never need anywhere near 50A to make this thing work ever.

I can run my whole home on a 6500w Honda which has a max breaker of 50A, if I'm strategic with my heavy loads, I have two 200A utility services on the property 1 for the house, 1 for the garage. But I can make good use of that 27A at 240v GEN to run the forced air oil heat, well, and all the lights, TV, wifi, if I need a high load like the water heater (4500w) it runs for about 45min to get some water for hot showers. We have been out for more then a week in near zero wind chills and about 30" of snow. With limited access to fuel and the sort you learn fast what you don't need.

I bet you can run the basic of basic on one of those small inverter gens that are really quiet and it only needs to run if you don't winterize the rig, all this goes away if you have a better plan for flushing the lines and known trouble areas.

Power wise if you keep this thing all year with the lines full, besides the propane deal that it already sounds like it has. Maybe you need to make a shore power cord and you can run this rig from your dryer outlet most likely as a very worse case deal in an emergency freeze.

Long term later on you have a qualified licensed electrician install an outlet with a cord set up to run the rig at your home, they can do a quick load check of what the rig pulls so it can be sized accordingly, much cheaper and time savings vs a 80mile round trip.

For the filter set up, in general you might have some blow out valves for your water lines, those should be drained and blown out by now for sure. But you will learn the weak spots. The dishwasher valves in vacation homes are known to be hard spots to drain and break, so those need to be hand disconnected and drained at times, break a few and it gets put on the list for next year.

To upgrade your filter set up I use freshwatersystems.com they can hook you up with the highest end set up ever or the most budget friendly set up ever your choice, they are a small local company I compare them to the Geno's Garage of water filter systems.

Good luck enjoy your rig and RV.

 

[gsbrockman]

I can't believe it okay guys it is a cold 19 degrees here in Danville Virginia the front tires are at 7473 and then the rear tires are at 4747 4645 so yeah they dropped a little bit I must say but that's okay man that's the lowest temperature we've seen in like a year so well 911 whatever there is a bunch of bunch of time so all right just wanted to give you a little picture guys so I had set the tires at 55 and now they're down to 4747 4645 and the front * 74 + 73.View attachment 116789

What were your tire pressures again?

 

[AH64ID]

Couple observations on this.

NEC 80% rule puts your max load at 40A for a 50A breaker. So you never need anywhere near 50A to make this thing work ever.

The 80% only applies to continuous loads, which is anything that is expected to operate 3 or more hours at a time (lights, etc) at maximum current. Otherwise a breaker can be ran at 100% of it's capacity.

Very little in an RV would be a continuous load, and the entire RV would not be considered a continuous load so it could, in theory, draw all 50A @ 240V. But it's not likely.

Most RV's don't even use the 240V 50A service at 240V but rather two 120V 50A legs in a MWBC.... meaning that 50A service provides more than 3x the power of 30A service.

For storage or non-A/C use most 50A RV's can easily operate on a 30A circuit with an adapter.

 

[Timd32]

The 80% only applies to continuous loads, which is anything that is expected to operate 3 or more hours at a time (lights, etc) at maximum current

Got it.

Still my overview like yours this thing can run off a very little power source to keep it from destroying itself if not winterized. Just have to be smarter about hooking up more problems then needed.

I would be surprised if they don't have a panel schedule in the literature to show the loads and what the nameplate is if you don't want to do a simple load reading with an amp clamp.

Adapters are readily available for sure. To make this really simple.

https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/power/rv-generator-cords-and-adapters.html

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I have a big problem guys I hope everybody is well it seems the Andersen ultimate connection is bending or creating a print in my truck bed so I know that the truck blade is made out of steel but it did Anderson the front of the Anderson is creating about a 3/8 to a half an inch indentation in the truck bed so I'm going to have to somehow work around this and I guess that's what you guys had said was the deflection I remember I forgot who it was who would said to me to how is a 19 dually 3500 ram truck bed attached to the frame I'm just curious if anybody has any pictures of how that is from what I understand I think one of you guys did say that deflection was going to be a big problem and yes you are correct now we have deflection in the truck bed that is about a 3/8 to a half an inch indentation into the truck bed steel do you guys have any ideas that it seems that the damage is already done and there's an indentation but I can put a nice piece of metal underneath the Anderson at least till I get another set up in the future my wife is not very happy right now she doesn't want to spend any more money on hitches or anything like that so I'm basically stuck you right guys and I apologized to the guys who told me to watch out for that deflection.

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I don't seem to see any support under the truck bed I guess it's bolted at four corners of the truck bed but I don't see any support under or on top of the frame rails under the truck bed which is kind of stupid you figure you'd have some support under there since you this is a 3500 dually somebody's going to put a couple of thousand pounds 3000 pounds four thousand pounds in the back of that truck bed my I believe my pin weight is over 3,000 pounds.

 

[TFucili]

There is plenty of support when using a properly designed hitch.

 

[dieselshadow]

Have the puck system installed. It should have the crossmembers pretty near where your Anderson hitch sits.

I would then get a better hitch that uses the puck system.