Spin Free Hubs

[Ozymandias]

I use a balljoint c-clamp press for the wheel studs, works like a charm.

 

[JR]

I tried to draw the studs in when I changed rotors in my 98 some years ago. It stretched the studs enough so that I could not run the lugs on by hand. Tried another with grease with the same result. After two I quit and found a press.

 

[ScottRoberts]

Lisle makes a tool for this that's reasonably priced. Not as cheap as washers though.

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/wheel-stud-installer

 

[Cummins2014]

To answer the very first question yes you can uses stack of washers and a lug but with some lube to install the wheel studs. Would I ? Well I have in a pinch. You risk over stretching and weakening the stud doing it this way. The best option is to use a press. 2nd choice if you can get a clear shot is with a drift and a large hammer.
As for free wheeling hubs you can’t beat them. Yes on that cold snowy night it’s a pain to get out and lock them. But they save ware and tear on all the spinning parts of the front end including the chain in the transfer case. If it’s not spinning it’s not wearing out. 2 wheel low range is an added plus. As for servicing them I’m on my 3rd truck with them. Keep out of the deep water and use quality grease and the bearings live a very long and very happy life. Way longer than any unit hub will last even with that BBC extra shot of grease.
That said if I was going to do another truck with free wheeling hubs I would track down the RAM Man. He use to make hub kits that used the Ford unit bearing assembly. Advantage is I don’t think you have to bore out the hubs on the stock Ram aluminum wheels. Just leave the cap off for access. I haven’t confirmed that the hubs will clear the wheels but they look really close.

Isn't the BD 2 low kit a way to go, I guess I don't understand what the purpose is here . I would like 2 low when backing my fifth wheel into my driveway, its a slight grade , and asphalt road going on to the cement driveway.

As far as 2 low off road ,as long as its some loose dirt or gravel, 4 low is not a problem for me.

 

[jhenderson]

Read all the posts. He has no CAD.

 

[EDankievitch]

From 2003 until 2013 (3500 trucks 2014 2500 trucks) Dodge then later Ram discontinued the Central axel disconnect on the American axel. Meaning the only to not have everything in the front of the truck spinning when you drive it is to install free spin hubs. And by everything spinning I mean wheels hubs U joints differential gears drive shaft double cardion (sp?) joint and the chain inside the transfer case.
The BD 2 low kit allows you to turn off the central axle disconnect motor. On pre 2003 trucks the actuator motor was vacuum operated. After 2013 the actuator motor is electric.
This disconnect system regardless of what year truck you have (prer2003 post 2013) has a sliding clutch on the longer side of the axle. it allows you to disconnect that wheel from the differential. Allowing it to spin free. The short side is still connected to the differential. things still spin but not as much as the axle with out the disconnect. Thus allowing a bit better fuel MPG and less wear on the transfer case.

 

[Cummins2014]

From 2003 until 2013 (3500 trucks 2014 2500 trucks) Dodge then later Ram discontinued the Central axel disconnect on the American axel. Meaning the only to not have everything in the front of the truck spinning when you drive it is to install free spin hubs. And by everything spinning I mean wheels hubs U joints differential gears drive shaft double cardion (sp?) joint and the chain inside the transfer case.
The BD 2 low kit allows you to turn off the central axle disconnect motor. On pre 2003 trucks the actuator motor was vacuum operated. After 2013 the actuator motor is electric.
This disconnect system regardless of what year truck you have (prer2003 post 2013) has a sliding clutch on the longer side of the axle. it allows you to disconnect that wheel from the differential. Allowing it to spin free. The short side is still connected to the differential. things still spin but not as much as the axle with out the disconnect. Thus allowing a bit better fuel MPG and less wear on the transfer case.

I got it, so he has to go to manual hubs to have 2 low ??. I read somewhere that the front driveshaft on post 2013 do not spin in 2 hi. ??

 

[RVTRKN]

Yes, thats why the BD kit works for post 2013 trucks, the drive shaft is disconnected electrically, which keeps the front axle from turning. All the BD kit does, is keep the drive shaft disconnected, even in 4Lo on demand when you want 2Lo. I wonder if you can install the axle disconnect system on older trucks. That would help in cost, vrs $3K (includes install cost) for the free spinning hubs. However the freespinning hubs are servicable and easy to remove, unlike the unit bearings being pressed in, or at least extreem tight fit. Unfortunatly I just converted my old C&C, just before I went back into a HVAC service company. Two vehicles here in Las Vegas can be expensive with high insurance and registration costs. So I traded in my daily driver (2016 Tacoma 4X4 offroad) and my 07 C&C that I just converted to free spinning hubs for the 2019 3500 HO.

 

[Cummins2014]

Yes, thats why the BD kit works for post 2013 trucks, the drive shaft is disconnected electrically, which keeps the front axle from turning. All the BD kit does, is keep the drive shaft disconnected, even in 4Lo on demand when you want 2Lo. I wonder if you can install the axle disconnect system on older trucks. That would help in cost, vrs $3K (includes install cost) for the free spinning hubs. However the freespinning hubs are servicable and easy to remove, unlike the unit bearings being pressed in, or at least extreem tight fit. Unfortunatly I just converted my old C&C, just before I went back into a HVAC service company. Two vehicles here in Las Vegas can be expensive with high insurance and registration costs. So I traded in my daily driver (2016 Tacoma 4X4 offroad) and my 07 C&C that I just converted to free spinning hubs for the 2019 3500 HO.

Its always made me wonder why all the concern on that front drive line zerk. I am sure it won't hurt , but if it doesn't turn ,not much going on with it. Unless in 4 wheel drive a lot.

 

[AH64ID]

I wonder if you can install the axle disconnect system on older trucks. That would help in cost, vrs $3K (includes install cost) for the free spinning hubs.

CAD is part of the axle housing, so it would take the 13+ axle... which has different suspension.

Spin-Free is the way to go on 02-13.

 

[TJJEEPER]

EMS Off Road kit is the kit I bought. Less money than any other kit out there and it looks exactly like the Yukon kit.
I also got the Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press on sale. I mean any project worth doing is worth some new tools, right?
Got one side pressed in today after fiddling with tooling to do the job. I will start the project in earnest tomorrow.

 

[AH64ID]

EMS Off Road kit is the kit I bought. Less money than any other kit out there and it looks exactly like the Yukon kit.
I also got the Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press on sale. I mean any project worth doing is worth some new tools, right?
Got one side pressed in today after fiddling with tooling to do the job. I will start the project in earnest tomorrow.

Is the EMS kit the one that re-drills ford spindles?

 

[TJJEEPER]

Is the EMS kit the one that re-drills ford spindles?

Nope, it IS a Yukon kit.

Ok, pressing out the u joints I broke the cap on one of them... Trust me, it wasn't easy but a 20 ton press overcame my stupidity.

So, any suggestions for new ones. Truck is in the in the sig line. Geno's has them but they are over $100 each. Rock Auto for some Spicers or Moog
Mike?

 

[RVTRKN]

Are you talking about the ear, that holds the bearing cap? If so, hope it’s the short shaft.

 

[RVTRKN]

If its the U-Joint it’s self, you should replace both anyway, it’s a lot of work to go back in what you just had apart. Make sure the ears that hold the U-Joint caps are true before pressing in the bearings, or the clips will not fully grasp in the grove. Ask me how I know this.

 

[EDankievitch]

I just replaced one of mine on my 13 was sized up. Auto zone had it and it fit. Working so far.

 

[TJJEEPER]

Yoke ears were not harmed. I was working on the unit bearing side first and I was pressing into a socket... that I thought was big enough to let the cap enter freely. It wasn't, jammed the cap into the socket and split it. Getting the socket off is what broke the cap (wouldn't have been useful anyway). The axle side cam off without incident. Replacing them is a good idea since they weren't quite dry but almost.

I can't tell you how many of these I've done but NOTHING this big! Huge difference between a Dana 30 or 45 front end and these beasts!

 

[TJJEEPER]

Double post

 

[JR]

Personally I would spend the money and buy the OEM joints. I went through enough flavors of aftermarket greasables in my gen 2's to Steer clear of them going forward. The quality is noticable when holding a new OEM and a new aftermarket in your hand. Should be able to source them through torque king or Denny's driveshafts. I remember one being better on price but it escapes me which was which.

 

[TJJEEPER]

Personally I would spend the money and buy the OEM joints. I went through enough flavors of aftermarket greasables in my gen 2's to Steer clear of them going forward. The quality is noticable when holding a new OEM and a new aftermarket in your hand.

Aftermarket is available with both grease and non-grease. I learned my lesson on the weaker grease-able with Jeeps.