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15,000 mile service on my 18

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Steps for a big guy

Chirping sound while driving my Truck

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It probably goes without saying, but we all do realize there is an integrated funnel directly beneath the oil filter for easy draining into a catch pan?
 
It probably goes without saying, but we all do realize there is an integrated funnel directly beneath the oil filter for easy draining into a catch pan?

Yep! Thou the first time I saw a little oil drip out was a couple days after my first change and thought I had an oil leak a new motor.

I don’t even recall how I spilled oil, but figured out what it was and my pulse went back to normal. :D
 
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I will generally pull the oil drain plug and go about my business rotating tires. By the time I'm done with that process the filter has been siphoned back to the point it is a non issue pulling it through the wheel well.
Of course I also wait until I can pull the plug without burning myself.... :D
 
I go thru the wheel well on my ‘14. I put a ziploc bag on the old filter and pull it out. I fill the new filter ¾ full and run it thru and screw it on with one hand. I do not use the cap thing. No oil is spilled and I don’t waste my time removing/installing the intake tube.

I have zero reason to doubt what you are saying.

but removing a hot filter after only 15 minutes and NOT having oil spill over its edge is pure BS. Why did he cut the video???
 
I let mine drain overnight most of the time or at a minimum 4 hours. I do fuel filters air filters transfer case diff’s and on occasion trans all at the same time.

some of us like it from the top n some from the side.
 
I also broke a strap wrench on my first oil change... but I didn’t wait 15K miles. I can’t leave oil in a new motor that long, it just doesn’t sit well with me. I know most motors go that long, but :eek:

Did you do your diff fluids? I just did mine at 15K and should have done the rear sooner. The OE gear lube doesn’t appear to be of high quality.

Nope didn't do it on my first previous one I did and it wasn't very bad and had pulled heavy like 20k load almost 8o% of the miles. The others I just checked the levels and let it go to 50k.

:D:D:D

Which one? I presume you do know there’s two fuel filters....correct?

Yes I am aware of the two fuel filters changed both the one under the hood was the one that was almost finger tight. The rear one was about like all of my others have been.

Here is a picture of my strap wrench. Web is actually 2" wide. No way a filter is going to win over it. SnoKingView attachment 117739

I had the same identical strap wrench. Thinking of useing some old 2 inch webbing from some old ratchet straps that I use for hauling hay that have worn spots in them to replace my strap on my wrench.

As long as we are all beating the dead horse on oil change technique. I do let my set overnight usually or at least several hours as I see no need to get burned. I have done my 13 from the top for 100k miles and while it is fairly easy to remove the intake tube, I thought it was wise for me to try the fender technique never know when you need to approach something different than before. As to the prefill on the filter I never have on any equipment I have ever owned. My 03 has 300k on it no blow by it has worked all its life pulling a trailer of some sort. Will it blow up tomorrow, I doubt it but if it does I bet it isn't from not having oil in the filter after changing.

Now my desire on the oil change was to beat a real dead horse and I was rushed and didn't do it but will the next time. I had fumoto easy drain plug that I had used on an 04 I had, and I kept and installed it on this truck. My intention is to get my camera gear and my macro lens and take some photos for you guys with a tape measure hooked on the top of the threads in the oil pan and then a pick of the length of the treads on the plug. I did eyeball it pretty close this time when I installed it and if my thread count was correct I can tell you it is only about 1-2 fine thread length difference which way I am not tell you will have to wait 15k more miles to find out.
 
I have a vintage Cummins Upper End Maintenance kit that has metal band oil wrench the 3/8" socket, 12 to 14" extension, swivel head socket, that has worked for all the Gens I've owned. The 09 4500 and current 17 5500 are straight unobstructed drop down.

The tool kit has engine barring tool, feeler gauges, and wrenches that fit the valve nut.

Happy New Year and Cheers, Ron
 
2017 SRW CC 4x4 6.7 - 4 oil changes via the wheel well with tire removed, using the Geno oil filter wrench and the billet aluminum oil filter cap. Oil filter filled 1/2 to 3/4. No oil spilled at any time. Very light oil coating on oil filter gasket and the filter cap is LIGHTLY tightened so it's easy to spin it off the filter. Cummins12V98 - I assume that you were alluding to the wear on the rubber tubing when you mentioned being stranded but are you drawing attention to another problem by putting a semi circle pen mark by the hose clamp.
 
I am not the only one that has turbo boost hose wear from the air intake rubbing on it. I guess the only way to find out is to remove the intake tube. PalmSprings, CA Dealer replaced nine no hassle or charge.

They ordered the parts by looking at the pics I have posted here.

ram17, only issue is above.
 
I am not the only one that has turbo boost hose wear from the air intake rubbing on it. I guess the only way to find out is to remove the intake tube. PalmSprings, CA Dealer replaced nine no hassle or charge.

They ordered the parts by looking at the pics I have posted here.

ram17, only issue is above.

If the intake is properly aligned it doesn't touch the hose at all. But it's a close call.
 
Since we're on the subject of changing oil and different methods, I wanted to point out that Lisle makes an oil filter cap to thread on - it's like 10 bucks. While I'm a supporter of Geno's, not everyone wants to spend 30 bucks on the fancy aluminium cap.

I used the Lisle cap and didn't spill a drop removing the filter. I also found that I was able to lower the filter down onto the frame and let it sit there while I threaded on the cap...no trouble. Maybe I got lucky, but I didn't see a need to cut a rectangle piece of plywood to drop down there like others have mentioned.

Anyway, just wanted to point out that Lisle cap is available and cheap and it works.
 
this is the one I got, I think from ebay for $10
filter cap.jpg
 
I have tool envy! No screw on filter cap, no 3/8" drive filter removal cup and no special pc of plywood. :cool:

Think of the extra tools you could have if you'd just change the oil filter through the wheel well. Everything we do is just an excuse to buy another tool and justify the purchase with "look how much I saved doing it on my own!" :D
 
There is a point and I have found it when I really don't need anymore tools. My RV is so heavy at 24k I simply need to get rid of "STUFF" instead of keep adding.
 
To whom it may concern....

I have done it both ways, it depends on my mood, but usually through the fender. I have not had issues with either method. That said, you can do it either way as far as I am concerned, I will not lose any sleep if you choose a method different than mine. I have not chosen teams or sides in this trivial matter.

Also, you are under no obligation to explain to me why you do it the way you choose, nor do you have to prove anything to me about your chosen method.

Now you know.....Just sayin...... o_Oo_Oo_Oo_O
 
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