It probably goes without saying, but we all do realize there is an integrated funnel directly beneath the oil filter for easy draining into a catch pan?
I go thru the wheel well on my ‘14. I put a ziploc bag on the old filter and pull it out. I fill the new filter ¾ full and run it thru and screw it on with one hand. I do not use the cap thing. No oil is spilled and I don’t waste my time removing/installing the intake tube.
I also broke a strap wrench on my first oil change... but I didn’t wait 15K miles. I can’t leave oil in a new motor that long, it just doesn’t sit well with me. I know most motors go that long, but
Did you do your diff fluids? I just did mine at 15K and should have done the rear sooner. The OE gear lube doesn’t appear to be of high quality.
Nope didn't do it on my first previous one I did and it wasn't very bad and had pulled heavy like 20k load almost 8o% of the miles. The others I just checked the levels and let it go to 50k.
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Which one? I presume you do know there’s two fuel filters....correct?
Here is a picture of my strap wrench. Web is actually 2" wide. No way a filter is going to win over it. SnoKingView attachment 117739
If you’re removing the tires/wheels for rotation purposes and are in sync with your oil changes.....that’s great.with tire removed.
I am not the only one that has turbo boost hose wear from the air intake rubbing on it. I guess the only way to find out is to remove the intake tube. PalmSprings, CA Dealer replaced nine no hassle or charge.
They ordered the parts by looking at the pics I have posted here.
ram17, only issue is above.
I have tool envy! No screw on filter cap, no 3/8" drive filter removal cup and no special pc of plywood.![]()
There is a point and I have found it when I really don't need anymore tools. My RV is so heavy at 24k I simply need to get rid of "STUFF" instead of keep adding.