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Have you not read what i have said about this issue since 2013 ?

Get your truck aligned to 1/64" toe. It's really that simple. NEVER rotate rears, 15k or so move front tires side to side keeping rotation the same. Leave wheels at same position, run 80psi fronts all the time. The insides will be on the outside.

It's called "stepping". 30k with one rotation at 15 and one at 30k. 80psi all the time.

35 rears empty and 65 running full RAWR. I am up to 68psi rears as I am running over my RAWR now.

View attachment 120047 View attachment 120048
Ummmmmm, yes I had the toe set to Thuren's spec on day one. And I did swap the fronts a few thousand miles ago. Sorry to say, but my fronts are scalloped, and I have to rotate them to the rear before they are too far gone. Plus, scalloping, or cupping is not from a wear angle like camber wear, or feathering from toe in or out. It is abnormal wear.
 
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What psi are you running on the front and are they the OE NEXENS?

Well I can tell you my alignment guy of 40 years knows his CHITZ as as soon as he looked at what the fronts of my 11 DRW was doing he said too much toe. OE spec is 1/4", yep mine was set good per OE.

Once corrected my tires look as above on the 11 and current 15 DRW. If you don't move side to side with keeping ROTATION THE SAME the outer edge WILL become worn more that just a fact.

NOT trying to argue with you just relying to help as I have had two DRW's with ONLY rotating the fronts and tires wear out evenly.

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The Nexens were sold before the truck even landed. Too many reports of slipping belts, and failures for me to run that junk. Running Nitto EXO's, same as I ran on my last truck with no abnormal wear issues. I have run most of the time at 75 psi. I have experimented from 80 down to 65. Rears are 35-40 empty, and 65 loaded. I can't find my alignment sheet, but like I said it was per Thuren, and nearly zero total toe.
 
I don’t think anything in modern history used inches for toe, it’s all degrees.

Thuren specs are what I use too.
 
I don’t think anything in modern history used inches for toe, it’s all degrees.

Thuren specs are what I use too.
My uncle's ancient Bear alignment tools were in inches like that, but he retired in the 80's! Yes, everything is in degrees. BUT I will say that I'd sooner deal with a sharp, old-school front end guy with ancient equipment than a punk with no clue equipped with a zillion dollar, laser guided, gee-whizz machine.
 
My uncle's ancient Bear alignment tools were in inches like that, but he retired in the 80's! Yes, everything is in degrees. BUT I will say that I'd sooner deal with a sharp, old-school front end guy with ancient equipment than a punk with no clue equipped with a zillion dollar, laser guided, gee-whizz machine.

I had a 69 Plymouth Satellite, took it to Sears for alignment. While sitting there I hear this impact under the front end. I go out and ask the guy what he is doing. He tells me he is adjusting the torsion bars. I ask him "you can't adjust the front end the way it is sitting ? ". He tells me no I have to get it to computer specs. Told him to get it off the rack as I do not want him touching my car as he has no idea what he is doing. Took it to an older gentleman with the Bear alignment sign, told him I liked the stance of the vehicle and asked if he could align it ?. Told me sure can pull it on the rack. He had all the old time equipment and I never had an alignment problem after that. It was late 70's early to mid 80's when he was used exclusively. I went back there one day and the place was all closed up. I am afraid all of those guy's that actually knew what they were doing are gone, a real loss. Seem's like most these days adjust by computer and know nothing of what makes a front end work.
 
The Nexens were sold before the truck even landed. Too many reports of slipping belts, and failures for me to run that junk. Running Nitto EXO's, same as I ran on my last truck with no abnormal wear issues. I have run most of the time at 75 psi. I have experimented from 80 down to 65. Rears are 35-40 empty, and 65 loaded. I can't find my alignment sheet, but like I said it was per Thuren, and nearly zero total toe.

200 miles when Michelin’s went on mine. Have you tried f
My uncle's ancient Bear alignment tools were in inches like that, but he retired in the 80's! Yes, everything is in degrees. BUT I will say that I'd sooner deal with a sharp, old-school front end guy with ancient equipment than a punk with no clue equipped with a zillion dollar, laser guided, gee-whizz machine.


This guy is who everyone in the Valley went to to have their classic rides worked on. He also had modern equipment, I guess he had preferences depending on what he was working on. Had to show the chart for someone on here a few years ago that said I was full of BS.

This guy liked to get it as close to 1/64" as possible.

Based on my experience I would never run the fronts below 80psi.

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"Seem's like most these days adjust by computer and know nothing of what makes a front end work."

So true!!!
That’s the absolute truth. I have (not for personal use) a brand new Hunter Hawkeye. Thing walks you through setup and there are different ways to set up and compensate. Tells you what to touch for what and even what special tools you need if any.
Thing we need to keep in mind is that it’s NEEDED with new age vehicles. Have you seen the rear suspension of any current vehicle? I’m afraid that the simplicity of these trucks has many baffled. If I get a chance to look up the specs on that machine, I will.
 
I waited on purpose to have my front aligned so everything had time to settle in at 24k, longer than I liked but I was traveling for quite a while at that time. The outer front edges of the tires did start stepping during that time. Unless the front end has worn parts I will not align again. My 98 has several hundred thousand on the same alignment with perfect tire wear.
 
Had the tires rotated this morning. Will monitor to see if the bum shock was the culprit.

On the way to the tire shop the Etch-A-Sketch spontaneously jumped to the front camera as I was driving along. Would not respond to power button, nor the "screen off" button. Same old story. I'll wait for the next update that never comes.
 
A dead shock absorber does exactly what you experienced - wear out tires fast, steps the thread.

Dead Zero Toe is best for a solid front axle alignment with no worn out parts.
 
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