Truck wont start after trying to install remote start

[aciani7]

Hi all,

This weekend I tried to install a remote starter in my 2018 3500... once I got everything in there I was able to get it to remote start once, truck ran for about 30 seconds; then I inserted the key, put it in the on position, and tapped the brake (normal takeover procedure) and the truck shut off. Since then the truck won't start remotely or with the key!

I removed the remote start entirely and wired everything back up as it came from the factory to no avail... Truck still doesn't start with the key. When I try it tips the starter for a split second and then everything goes out. It comes back on when I release the key from the start position as if I am reconnecting the battery (the bed lights come on and door chime comes back on after every time).

I've disconnected and reconnected the batteries a number of times during all this, both to be safe and to try to reset any computer issues. Left them disconnected for 3 days and no different symptoms. I'm getting a P2509 code (ECM/PCM power input signal intermittent) but not sure if that's an actual indication of something other than the many battery disconnects/reconnects. I cleared the code once and then tried to start again and it came right back so I'm thinking that might be something. I've checked all the fuses that I think are related - haven't checked every single fuse in the truck though.

Has anyone had any similar type of problem before? I called the dealership and they gave me the typical "never heard of that bring it in for us to take a look" line... Trying to see if I can figure this out without having to tow it down to the dealer for them to try and figure it out and charge me a fortune.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Anthony

 

[GCroyle]

Anthony,

Might help if you called the vendors tech support or provided manufacturer name and model number of what you installed.

Welcome to TDR.

Gary

 

[aciani7]

I ordered the gear from crutchfield and they tried to troubleshoot with me, basically said disconnect the battery and let any capacitors discharge, then try again and if that doesn't work call the dealer... They seemed to have limited wiring/computer info on the truck because its relatively new and I guess Ram wasn't so forthcoming with information.

Remote start is a Viper 4816V with a Flashlogic FLCAN to duplicate the key transponder.

 

[GCroyle]

Crutchfield sold it Viper built it? Call Viper.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Yes, you need to call the manufacturer.
Call crutchfield for a aftermarket radio issue, they MIGHT be able to help with that...

 

[Ltngdrvr]

That code is the telling factor, you have a power supply issue to the ecm.
The computer systems on these truck are super sensitive, hope you didn't fry the ecm.

 

[aciani7]

I actually had a little faith in the Crutchfield guys, they have their own team of people that only do remote start. I guess this is outside of their realm which I do understand...

Anyway I just called the manufacturer and they gave me the same story... never heard of it did you check fuses? So at this point I think I'm about out of options except the dealer. I sure hope I didn't fry the ECM - everything (that I can do without the truck actually running) seems to still work fine.

Thanks for the replies so far - if anyone else has any words of wisdom I'm all ears!

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Was this kit a plug and play or did you have to splice wires???
Go back over every connection and make sure they are good, nothing loose, no bent pins in a connector.

 

[aciani7]

I had to splice about 8-10 wires. I'm 99% sure everything is good, but I was definitely thinking maybe I should go check. Seems to me like the ECM/PCM is losing power only when I turn the key to start. Looks like my next step will be to try and determine why that is, if possible.....

Thanks again.

 

[sag2]

It's too bad you just didn't go with OEM Remote Start. It is simple as adding hood switch, get fobs with RS buttons, program the truck telling it it now has Remote Start. No wires to splice.
I always say what did you do to break it? Go back over the wiring first. Without a quality scan tool you will not be able to read the codes in the RF Hub and the Body Controller. Without the codes you are just guessing.

 

[C M McCormick]

Sorry to hear about your problem. Please keep us updated.

 

[Topzide]

It's too bad you just didn't go with OEM Remote Start. It is simple as adding hood switch, get fobs with RS buttons, program the truck telling it it now has Remote Start. No wires to splice.
I always say what did you do to break it? Go back over the wiring first. Without a quality scan tool you will not be able to read the codes in the RF Hub and the Body Controller. Without the codes you are just guessing.

Agree 100% with sag2! i put in the OEM remote start kit on mine. Hardest part was get wire from need hood latch thru boot to go to ECM. Other then having to go to dealer to be programed at the time, haven't had a lick of trouble with it. Got the whole kit to house for under $275 at that time. Other thing I did was to Mod the rear seat to be able to fold forward for safe out of sight storage of certain items. Still plenty of meat to hold seat as it should.

 

[sag2]

On my 2014 I just added the sales code and used a jumper wire to ground on the BCM for the hood switch. The remotes already had the button on the circuit board so all I needed was new fob body with the extra button. SInce I was still working I was able to download the new configuration and program it. I spent maybe $25 for the new fob bodies to get the system up and running.

 

[AH64ID]

On my 2014 I just added the sales code and used a jumper wire to ground on the BCM for the hood switch. The remotes already had the button on the circuit board so all I needed was new fob body with the extra button. SInce I was still working I was able to download the new configuration and program it. I spent maybe $25 for the new fob bodies to get the system up and running.

AlfaOBD is probably the cheapest way to go for aftermarket enabling of the sales code.

 

[aciani7]

Thanks to everyone for the replies and suggestions. Turns out I had everything wired up correctly, but there must have been a bad connection somewhere. I re-made all the connections with the butt connectors I got from Autozone (instead of the ones from NAPA - go figure) and it fired right up, no issues to speak of.

I will note to the discussion of adding factory remote start that my truck is a stick shift - I therefore assume this is not a possibility, but if anyone knows of a way to make it work I would love to give it a shot. Having the key fob do everything would be awesome, but again I don't think that's doable on a manual...

Anthony

 

[SnoKing]

Thanks to everyone for the replies and suggestions. Turns out I had everything wired up correctly, but there must have been a bad connection somewhere. I re-made all the connections with the butt connectors I got from Autozone (instead of the ones from NAPA - go figure) and it fired right up, no issues to speak of.

I will note to the discussion of adding factory remote start that my truck is a stick shift - I therefore assume this is not a possibility, but if anyone knows of a way to make it work I would love to give it a shot. Having the key fob do everything would be awesome, but again I don't think that's doable on a manual...

Anthony

You might consider buying a better crimp tool also. The cheapy flat medal ones that come with wire terminal kits belong in the garbage can.

 

[aciani7]

Yeah my crimper is a Klein so no worries there - the butt connectors I got from Napa kind of had me worried from the start. Some of the wires were pulling out so I started crimping them twice, but I guess they still weren't getting good connection... the autozone ones were thicker and seems to bite down harder on the wire so I'll just keep using them from now on.

 

[RammerJam]

Yeah my crimper is a Klein so no worries there - the butt connectors I got from Napa kind of had me worried from the start. Some of the wires were pulling out so I started crimping them twice, but I guess they still weren't getting good connection... the autozone ones were thicker and seems to bite down harder on the wire so I'll just keep using them from now on.

I am NOT an electrician, but I have found that crimping wires/connectors more than once is counterproductive.

 

[SnoKing]

Important things I solder and shrink tube, with a good twist on the two wires before soldering.

 

[Ozymandias]

Important things I solder and shrink tube, with a good twist on the two wires before soldering.

Solder/Shrink Connectors are the modern way to do that and they are, more or less, fools proof.


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