I prefer that method also, that is the way the Military taught and has always worked well. Sometimes you need to crimp but it's a last choice.Important things I solder and shrink tube, with a good twist on the two wires before soldering.
I prefer that method also, that is the way the Military taught and has always worked well. Sometimes you need to crimp but it's a last choice.Important things I solder and shrink tube, with a good twist on the two wires before soldering.
I used to solder and shrink wrap everything until a Master Tech family friend told me that he stopped doing it that way after 30 years because eventually the vibrations from the road can cause the solder to become brittle and break causing issues. Butt connectors are the best way to go about it and to try and splice them at different spots in the harness so that you don't create 1 really large bundle of wiring like a golf ball in the wire loom. Spread them out and it'll be easier to work on in the future. Just my experiences as I do a lot of 12v work on family and friends car's.
I just read in the past couple of weeks that the FAA prohibits soldered connections on aircraft due to vibrations causing cracking and poor connections. The person (a harness installer at Boeing) said they use heat shrink crimp connectors for everything. Went on to say that special 3-point crimping tools are used so that the connections can be pulled apart.If that were the case there would be a lot of B-52's and KC-135's falling out of the sky. His theory doesn't hold water.
That's interesting. They use to preach soldering over crimps but that was when we had real solder not this EPA crap they sell now.I just read in the past couple of weeks that the FAA prohibits soldered connections on aircraft due to vibrations causing cracking and poor connections. The person (a harness installer at Boeing) said they use heat shrink crimp connectors for everything. Went on to say that special 3-point crimping tools are used so that the connections can be pulled apart.
The approved method for FCA is to use brass crimps for a mechanical connection, then solder and shrink wrap. It is a little more difficult when you are in a tight spot, but offers a very reliable connection. I will take my chances any day on a soldered connection over a butt connector, especially in an auto environment.I used to solder and shrink wrap everything until a Master Tech family friend told me that he stopped doing it that way after 30 years because eventually the vibrations from the road can cause the solder to become brittle and break causing issues. Butt connectors are the best way to go about it and to try and splice them at different spots in the harness so that you don't create 1 really large bundle of wiring like a golf ball in the wire loom. Spread them out and it'll be easier to work on in the future. Just my experiences as I do a lot of 12v work on family and friends car's.
They key to any good connection is keeping the environment out of it. That's where the heat-shrink connectors help a ton.I will take my chances any day on a soldered connection over a butt connector, especially in an auto environment.
They key to any good connection is keeping the environment out of it. That's where the heat-shrink connectors help a ton.
The Mopar heat shrink in my photo is now over $1 per piece. I need to find another source of quality tube as this stuff is just getting too expensive. There used to be a recall package with about 15 pieces for under $4.00 but they got smart and require a VIN to order the parts package.
Thanks for the link. I just ordered a selection of shrink wrap and the brass crimp splices. We will see how they compare to the Mopar stuff.I've had good luck with products from this place, they sell some other varieties as well along with a lot of OEM connector sets. https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=291&category_id=63
Thanks for the link. I just ordered a selection of shrink wrap and the brass crimp splices. We will see how they compare to the Mopar stuff.