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I used to solder and shrink wrap everything until a Master Tech family friend told me that he stopped doing it that way after 30 years because eventually the vibrations from the road can cause the solder to become brittle and break causing issues. Butt connectors are the best way to go about it and to try and splice them at different spots in the harness so that you don't create 1 really large bundle of wiring like a golf ball in the wire loom. Spread them out and it'll be easier to work on in the future. Just my experiences as I do a lot of 12v work on family and friends car's.
 
I used to solder and shrink wrap everything until a Master Tech family friend told me that he stopped doing it that way after 30 years because eventually the vibrations from the road can cause the solder to become brittle and break causing issues. Butt connectors are the best way to go about it and to try and splice them at different spots in the harness so that you don't create 1 really large bundle of wiring like a golf ball in the wire loom. Spread them out and it'll be easier to work on in the future. Just my experiences as I do a lot of 12v work on family and friends car's.

If that were the case there would be a lot of B-52's and KC-135's falling out of the sky. His theory doesn't hold water.
 
If that were the case there would be a lot of B-52's and KC-135's falling out of the sky. His theory doesn't hold water.
I just read in the past couple of weeks that the FAA prohibits soldered connections on aircraft due to vibrations causing cracking and poor connections. The person (a harness installer at Boeing) said they use heat shrink crimp connectors for everything. Went on to say that special 3-point crimping tools are used so that the connections can be pulled apart.
 
I just read in the past couple of weeks that the FAA prohibits soldered connections on aircraft due to vibrations causing cracking and poor connections. The person (a harness installer at Boeing) said they use heat shrink crimp connectors for everything. Went on to say that special 3-point crimping tools are used so that the connections can be pulled apart.
That's interesting. They use to preach soldering over crimps but that was when we had real solder not this EPA crap they sell now.
 
I used to solder and shrink wrap everything until a Master Tech family friend told me that he stopped doing it that way after 30 years because eventually the vibrations from the road can cause the solder to become brittle and break causing issues. Butt connectors are the best way to go about it and to try and splice them at different spots in the harness so that you don't create 1 really large bundle of wiring like a golf ball in the wire loom. Spread them out and it'll be easier to work on in the future. Just my experiences as I do a lot of 12v work on family and friends car's.
The approved method for FCA is to use brass crimps for a mechanical connection, then solder and shrink wrap. It is a little more difficult when you are in a tight spot, but offers a very reliable connection. I will take my chances any day on a soldered connection over a butt connector, especially in an auto environment.

PXL_20210104_210943249.jpg
 
The Mopar heat shrink in my photo is now over $1 per piece. I need to find another source of quality tube as this stuff is just getting too expensive. There used to be a recall package with about 15 pieces for under $4.00 but they got smart and require a VIN to order the parts package.
 
The Mopar heat shrink in my photo is now over $1 per piece. I need to find another source of quality tube as this stuff is just getting too expensive. There used to be a recall package with about 15 pieces for under $4.00 but they got smart and require a VIN to order the parts package.

I've had good luck with products from this place, they sell some other varieties as well along with a lot of OEM connector sets. https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=291&category_id=63
 
The trick I do when using heat shrink after soldering is to coat connection with hot melt glue the cover with heat shrink. Hot melt glue has provided me a water tight connection on a well pump repair many moons ago! Didn't have proper connectors available when I had to replace pump on a Sunday at big box store! If you can't fit heat shrink on the repair, then I fall back on liquid tape! JM2C.
 
The first part of my career was a telephone installer and data systems installer repairman technician. We used soldering and mechanical connections in buried, aerial, and interior wiring environments. Never had any fail when properly applied. I have Scotchlock mechanical connectors that have Icky Pick water repellant.

I soldered a wire on the front left turn signal on my Jeep Wrangler this past week as it was damaged by road debris near the connector. Solder was only choice due to limited access. Slid heat shrink over conductor, cleaned, wrapped wires two twists, applied flux, heated conductors with soldering iron, flowed solder onto it until shiney, let cool, applied dielectric grease, slid heat shrink on, heated it, and done.

I will not have any more problems with this, although thinking about making small shield for turn signal as they get barrage of rocks. mud and water from the front mud tires.

I do have to give this caveat though: mechanical splice products are amazing and I pretty much have them for whatever environment. But, I still occasionally solder too.

Cheers, Ron
 
Thanks for the link. I just ordered a selection of shrink wrap and the brass crimp splices. We will see how they compare to the Mopar stuff.

I'll be interested in your opinion on it since I've never seen the Mopar stuff. I've used a lot of it on motorcycle wiring projects and it has stood up well in that environment.
 
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