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19.5" tires are too thick to allow tire pressure sensors to read

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3G shutdown/I connect question

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Looks GREAT...Now that you are done, can you please come over here and polish my Rickson forged aluminum wheels ?? LOL

I guessed at about 4hrs labor on each wheel....( and a lot of polish/ sanding material $$ )

before and after corrroded wheel.jpg
 
Update;
Heres what I found out, this only pertains to a 2017 SRW 3500 pickup . After breaking the bead of the tire, we stuck the activator tool into it . It activated the sensor. We reinstalled the 19.5" wheel/tire combo, on the truck and within about 15 minutes of driving the truck read the sensor! I would call that a success , however the system maxes out at 101psi, and after a long talk with a tire pressure engineer, we think its the trucks electronics not the sensors. But I still consider it a success because the display on the trucks dash will still show an pressure loss under 101lbs, that will give me a fair warning and most likely I will never have to go over 110lbs even with a load safety margin.

So heres what I think ;the sensor activator tool the tire installer was using did not have enough signal strength through the thick Toyos until we stuck it inside but the trucks receiver does.


newest update, after about 10 hrs in a recent 14hr trip my right rear sensor winked out. Everything was working great up to that, including other trips. Pulled over and checked tire pressure with no change. Drove some more and it started reading . Few more miles it went off again, and I timed it. At about 7-10 minutes it started reading again, then in about another hour my right front went out, and started reading pressure again in about the same amount of time. Taking it to the shop Weds. Either the sensor batteries are going bad at about 2 yrs old , or the band system got loose and the sensors are bouncing around inside( unlikely) . Or?
 
no conclusion on why the right side sensors stopped reading then came back on, they all checked OK, and their locations did not change, according to the tire guy and his sensor monitor tool . They are working fine now.
 
new development
on a 1000 mile trip the right rear display reading winked out, then came back on. After that everything was OK. Then after two days of camping, we started for home and the right side sensor readings switched positions( over night)!!!! So the high pressure was reading on the screen as the front and the lower pressure was shown as the rear . That never changed after 500 miles. The tires pressures checked with a pressure gauge as correct. So I might have a problem with the trucks ability to figure what wheel/tire is which. Computer problem? o_O Trying to explain this to a dealer service writer is gonna be real fun..... :confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
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I am still thinking maybe your truck's problem has something to do with slightly weaker sensor batteries combined with the thicker rims.
 
today they switched back to normal so bringing the truck to a dealer that's not too sharp with nothing to fix will be futile .....
 
Like said, that is a receiver thing if they switch positions. One of the three of them is on its way south.
can a clueless dealer tech scan the truck and see that even if the dash monitor is reading correctly now? If not ,where should I go for a resolution? Hopefully somewhere in the Midwest :rolleyes:
 
Been a while since I read this thread, did you make sure you got sensors with different frequencies so they dont get detected up as the same?
 
can a clueless dealer tech scan the truck and see that even if the dash monitor is reading correctly now? If not ,where should I go for a resolution? Hopefully somewhere in the Midwest :rolleyes:
Yes they have a different tool that can read each sensor, that can be paired to the other scan tool and used.

They can read and write to each sensor.

The repair instructions are pretty straight forward, don't see why they can't figure this one out. It does require following some basic checks so don't get discouraged when they ask you some basic stuff about your truck. Not too many informed drivers out there.

There are a lot of notes about modified equipment and the sort in the directions.

Good luck with your repair.
 
Yes they have a different tool that can read each sensor, that can be paired to the other scan tool and used.

They can read and write to each sensor.

The repair instructions are pretty straight forward, don't see why they can't figure this one out. It does require following some basic checks so don't get discouraged when they ask you some basic stuff about your truck. Not too many informed drivers out there.

There are a lot of notes about modified equipment and the sort in the directions.

Good luck with your repair.

I have an appointment next week, I was going to take off the 19.5"s and install the stockers to keep them from taking the easy route and saying the problem is the heavy duty, thick wheels/tires( or centramatics) , but that's a lot of work. However without the 19.5's they might not find the problem.o_O
 
I talked to a TPMS engineer today. His theory is the truck's tire pressure receiver is not centrally located in the truck It determines where each sensor in each wheel is located by measuring the difference in signal strength . Weakest signal is the one farthest away and so forth. Because of the thicker tires and wheels , the system sometimes gets confused.(the glitches only happen with the right side wheels)
 
^^^^Essentially correct as there is really no way to "centrally locate" a reciever module in all sorts of different vehicles thus the system they developed instead.

NOT saying that this is actually the case, but it is also is why a single weaker battery, and for that matter non stock rims (ie not "calibrated" to what the computer is expecting from the oem system) could also be causing your symptoms.

It is one of the reasons I went with a Dill aftermarket (but still quality oem manufacturer) TIPM sensor system when I put on my 19.5 Rickson forged aluminum wheels. I mounted the reciver on the dash ashtray door, hardwired it from behind, and all is good. The extra sensors positions are for when I am pulling trailer.
 
Sounds like something I should have done, but I wanted to use the OEM dash monitor if possible. Overall besides the glitches the project worked out semi sat. FYI The engineers I talked to were from Dill.
 
Had another talk with an TPMS engineer. He added that the sensors are normally mounted in the valve stem holes, therefore they are always pointing out . That orientation is used along with other things to compute the sensors location. If the one or more sensors were mounted with the bands I needed to use were pointed towards the center of the truck , that also could confuse the trucks computer.


20200730_150312.jpg
 
I had my TPIS swap the axles this last week. I was in the middle of a 100 mile dirt road, 8-12 mph normal, and looked down to see my front tires low. I thought I had leaks in both, only to realize my rear tires were high. Swapped!!

After about an hour it cleared and never returned. So I’m thinking it’s a computer thing and not your 19.5 wall thickness.
 
I had my TPIS swap the axles this last week. I was in the middle of a 100 mile dirt road, 8-12 mph normal, and looked down to see my front tires low. I thought I had leaks in both, only to realize my rear tires were high. Swapped!!

After about an hour it cleared and never returned. So I’m thinking it’s a computer thing and not your 19.5 wall thickness.


wierd:confused:
 
10 hr drive with no weird tire pressure swapping or loosing the readings , so maybe the truck is learning?
 
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