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'05 Budget Engine Rebuild

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Preferred fluid/lube for G56 ?

high rail pressure on shutoff. Cause for concern?

Bromiley99 says the white buildup in #6 is coolant residue. Didn't think of that.
Didn't see any cracks in the block (w/ naked eye), gasket looked o.k. at a cursory glance. I'll take a closer look at the head...needed to replace the valve seals and lap the valves anyway.
Not sure if there's an inexpensive way of checking the head out other than checking for surface straightness. Don't have a diesel compression tester. And didn't want to pay for getting everything magnafluxed.
 
The head is really the only potential problem. It’s definitely worth getting checked out off the top of my head I’m gonna say 75% of the heads I’ve pulled turned out to be cracked and needed replacement.
 
if 75% cracked is the rule, Id definitely get it checked.. or save myself the time and effort or lapping, replacing valves, etc.. and just replace it. You already have this much time and money in the build, would not want to go back in due to a cracked head or bad injector damaging all your hard work.
 
O.k., looks like I'll be having the head checked out.
This budget rebuild is turning out to be not-so-budget. I'm starting to think that at best I will be saving hundreds, not thousands, in relation to rebuilding this engine vs purchasing a long block.
Any body have idea how much a head check will cost? And, can anybody recommend a good shop to have it checked out in San Antonio TX?
 
One additional question to the two above. If the head is bad, and I have to buy a non cracked head, can I transfer the old valves and springs from my present head?
 
I’m just speaking from personal experience, but exhaust valve seats seam to be where they usually crack, 24V seem worse than 12V. If your head is good and you get it resurfaced I would say $300-$400. If you need a new one I’ve always just bought a loaded head all new valves and seals installed ready to bolt up.
 
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My phone is not the best camera, but if you look btwn the white marker lines there's a crack.
Here's where it gets weird. (1) Cracks are at intake valves. (2) Cracks are at cylinders that had all the rings in tact. (3) Cracks are not present at #6 where the coolant deposits were located.
I can't see any cracks in the block back at #6. I'll take an extra close look at the hd gskt which I didn't discard.
So now I'm needing a head, fully assembled. Shoulda got a long block!
Enough of that pity party nonsense.
If it were you what head would you get? I'm not talking racing or sled pulling, I'm asking, if you had to tow 16K lbs about 10 times s year for up to 800 miles and/or reliability and longevity was your main concern what assembled head would you buy? I'll even take advice on what head NOT to buy, but please justify the reply. Need a rock-solid, reliable engine.
Timeline is shot, but my requirement not to half-@$$ this engine build still stands.
Everybody's got an opinion so let's hear it.
Thanks in advance. Already glad I listened to the forum and didn't just slap this ting together.
 
Pistons . connecting rods, crank and cam were fine. New turbo, rebuild kit, oil pump, water pump, fan hub, idler pully, fan clutch, clutch fork, throw out bearing, input shaft bearing retainer and head work came out to $5400.00. It took me 2 weeks worth of labor.

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Everything went back together...no spare parts.
Fired right up with 0 leaks. Runs smooth, has good power and I'm 100% satisfied with the results.
Some things I would recommend while the motor is out... Clean and redo all of your grounds. Replace or repair any wiring looms . Good luck on your build.

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