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DPS versus BD Manifold Replacement

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The classic 2004 and up driveline vibration rehash....

CPP diesel

Well No Luck in trying to remove those studs. Stripped 2 different types of extractors. I heated the housing pretty good. Anymore i I think I would deform it. The stud itself was cherry red. Followed Ozys recommendations on cooling with airflow and then adding some ATF.

So. I need to get my truck running and am thinking about just getting a new turbo. Stock injectors, MM3 60HP tune. BD exhaust manifold (in the process of installing) Turbo re-sources doesnt offer their upgraded remans anymore just stock reman.

At full throttle I do make smoke, same when towing. Any recommendations?
 
Well No Luck in trying to remove those studs. Stripped 2 different types of extractors. I heated the housing pretty good. Anymore i I think I would deform it. The stud itself was cherry red. Followed Ozys recommendations on cooling with airflow and then adding some ATF.

So. I need to get my truck running and am thinking about just getting a new turbo. Stock injectors, MM3 60HP tune. BD exhaust manifold (in the process of installing) Turbo re-sources doesnt offer their upgraded remans anymore just stock reman.

At full throttle I do make smoke, same when towing. Any recommendations?

Check out Turbo Lab. They have options for upgraded Holset HE351CW turbos. 2003 - 2007 Dodge Cummins 5.9 Turbo Upgrade Archives - Turbo Lab (turbolabofamerica.com)
 
Thanks CVR22NV
I found a local shop in Dallas who might get the bolts out. worst case they can put on a new housing and or rebuild it. They have the tools and expertise to do this. Turbo labs guys are out till the 11th

I still wouldn't mind getting a new turbo. I was hailing some hay in august (14 rolls @ 1k lbs each + trailer) I briefly saw 1450 degrees pre-turbo (by the number 3 cylinder) and im blowing smoke with the MM3 60HP tune. so hoping my new BD manifold lowers EGT a bit but that wont stop the smoke.
 
Depending on how the tune was written it may or may not help EGTs and smoke. 60hp shouldn’t smoke even on a stock turbo/manifold.

If that’s your preferred tune then all you really need to upgrade is the turbine housing as the stock compressor is adequate for that power level, and a little more.
 
If you know someone with a mill, they could use and end mill to bore most of that stud out and you can re-tap it. I had a similar problem on a motorcycle cylinder head that the studs broke off in, we set it up in the bridgeport and milled out almost all the stud, then re-tapped it, was time consuming but worked..
 
AH64ID : I'm using Robs 60HP tow tune https://www.5-9diesel.com/. I of course have no idea what he did other than the 60HP increase and the modified shift schedule which seems to keep it in 3rd longer to lock up the torque converter and the option to disable overdrive

Yeah 60HP is good enough for me, truck is better at 385 than 325.

bcbender : I'm getting the turbo rebuilt locally to stock. The shop can also remove the studs $40 a piece which is cheaper than the extractor kit I bought. :(
 
Well this has been an ordeal. Got my rebuilt turbo back and installed it. Pre-charged it with 2 oz of new oil while spinning the compressor blade. Truck isn't producing any boost. And when I step on the accelerator, not hard, but give it a goose. I hear a sound like a fwaackk. not really loud and its only momentary like a second or too. The sound doesn't occur under a constantly increasing light throttle all the way up to 2000 RPM. I cant really locate the sound from the inside of the cab. Is there someway to goose the throttle while under the hood? I've also ordered a aitflow tester so i can test the air intake system for leaks. should arrive in a few days. I also installed a new 2 piece BD exhaust manifold at the same time. Truck at idle definitely sounds different. I mean how hard can this be the turbo was turning when i pre-lubed it.

They did install a new waste gate actuator, kept the original solenoid. Could the waste gate be stuck open? Doesn't explain that noise I'm hearing might explain the zero boost?

Anyone have any ideas?

I've attached a couple of pics of my tuner with some readouts

1500 RPM

1500 RPM.jpg



Idle
Idle.jpg
 
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Thanks Scott. I was doing just that. Took the vehicle out for a trip around the block and it became immediately apparent that the noise I heard when tapping the accelerator was an exhaust leak. I was able to generate 30 PSI of boost as well. I suspect the leak may bge the vclamp from the turbo down spout to the exhaust system. I had a bear of a time getting those 2 pieces to line up. Had to push on the exhaust pipe from the back of the truck to close the gap. I've followed BDs instructions on the new manifold to idle for 15 and re-toque. I'll re-torque again here as soon as she cools a bit.
 
Well I was missing the #4 gasket - This is the cylinder i choose to install the 1st bolt on when hoisting the manifold+turbo back into the engine Used a helper like Ozy said - thanks Ozy!) . The gasket must of fell off while I was wiggling the assembly to get things lined up.

I still have an exhaust leak (minor as compared to a missing gasket) and a turbo whistle now. I'm going to use some brake clean to clean around the manifold and then run around town creating black smoke to find the leak.

I've torqued the turbo to exhaust vclamp to 100 in-lb per the manual and torqued and re torqued the manifold to 40ft lbs (with anti-sieze)

Manifold, turbo to manifold and turbo to exhaust are the only places that exhaust can escape. Unless the 2 piece manifold has to heat and cool numerous times from some strange reason.
 
Probably it's Turbo to Exhaustbrake, I had such a hard time to get that connection to line up perfectly straight and not to move out of center while torqueing the Band clamps.

Start the cold engine, engage EB and then go with your Hand around all connection. It takes some time to heat up the Header so you don't get burnt by touching all around these things.
I felt the blow out really good when I did mine.

By the way I have that slight turbo whistle too since the install of the BD. No clue how that comes together.
 
Probably it's Turbo to Exhaustbrake, I had such a hard time to get that connection to line up perfectly straight and not to move out of center while torqueing the Band clamps.

Start the cold engine, engage EB and then go with your Hand around all connection. It takes some time to heat up the Header so you don't get burnt by touching all around these things.
I felt the blow out really good when I did mine.

By the way I have that slight turbo whistle too since the install of the BD. No clue how that comes together.

I'll give it a shot Ozy, by the way I don't have an exhaust brake.
 
Well I found out I need another spare part. The kind that fits the hole in my head and stops my brains from leaking out. The number 4 gasket was crooked. I thought I had threaded the lower bolt hole into the gasket but didn't. With all the soot around the #4 exhaust port the black gasket just blended in. All fixed now, no leaks. Thanks for all the help everyone.
 
Just remember to check your manifold and turbo bolts regularly as they are prone to loosen over time. I had terrible luck with studs and eventually abandoned them for the bolts and spacers and torquing to 40 ft lbs.
 
Just remember to check your manifold and turbo bolts regularly as they are prone to loosen over time. I had terrible luck with studs and eventually abandoned them for the bolts and spacers and torquing to 40 ft lbs.

Roger that! I was when re-torquing after a 15 minute idle i was surprised at how much the #2 bolts, top and bottom, were loose. Drove the truck for about 3 miles and re-tightened.
 
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