Here I am

More new truck ?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Dealer diesel tech

3500HD vs 4500

Status
Not open for further replies.
I could see that.. personally I understand it, but could see how it would trouble someone that does not understand. My V8 powered boat has 40psi cold and 15psi hot, (idle) but runs 60 psi at 4500RPM... no worries but thats how the machine works.

Normal and without issue, but confusing to some... especially when the pressure goes from 15 to 60 in less than 1000 rpms of rpm gain.

It's the modern driver.... no different than 40 years ago a owners manual told you how to do maintenance and now it tells you not to drink the battery acid.
 
Last edited:
Water temperature is a smoothed reading to, it swings always around center, little below little above.
Until a threshold is reached and then it jumps all of a sudden close or into the red area.
I've seen that with my broken fan clutch, went up the hill and everything was fine - until it wasn't. From one second to the next.
 
went up the hill and everything was fine - until it wasn't.

That's exactly how mine did on the 04 when my FC was bad also... was at 210~220... then pegged. I pulled off and let it cool down and then figured out what the issue was, so I drove it faster to keep air over the radiator and get it home... did not need the FC in direct / 6th at or above 60mph, but 4th/3rd pulling was NG
 
That's exactly how mine did on the 04 when my FC was bad also... was at 210~220... then pegged. I pulled off and let it cool down and then figured out what the issue was, so I drove it faster to keep air over the radiator and get it home... did not need the FC in direct / 6th at or above 60mph, but 4th/3rd pulling was NG

I shifted down to second and slowed down to take load of the engine.
I wanted the airflow through the radiator, stopped it would have overheated even more.
 
To be clear, the oil pressure is truly fake. It sets the needle where a customer might expect it to be based on engine temp and engine speed. Everyone is correct that it is a 6 PSI switch, and there is a delay before the needle goes to zero and the chime sounds if the pressure drops below 6 PSI. It really is a non issue as I have never seen an oil pressure related failure on this forum, ever.
The oil temperature is actually fairly close, but also completely fake as it relates to actual oil temp in the oil pan. It is an algorithm based on coolant temp and engine load. I have checked it a few times with the infrared, and the pan temp was always within about 10° of what the dash read.
Hemi engine equipped trucks on the other hand are actual engine oil temp from a sensor.
 
I ran a oil temp gauge on my 05, probe in the extra port on the oil filter housing, and I agree that the algorithm for oil temp is quite accurate...unlike oil pressure.

The only time I've really noticed oil temp being wrong is when the coolant gets blow 190, like a long offramp on a COLD day, the oil temp will drop fast to a unrealistic temp... but the algorithm is likely assuming that the engine is still in warmup mode and oil warms up slower than coolant so it plummets the temp.
 
I was watching it with morbid curiosity today while I drove to VA and back on my EVIC under vehicle information page... presure would go as low as 30s and up to 50s (in 6th @60mph) and was always changing... I did notice oil temp would drop quickly when off throttle EB ON into the 170 range from 190s while coolant temp was 190, seems odd but interesting to follow... Im not worried about it, just interesting to see and I think why put it there in digital format?.. Heck my 70 malibu only has a speedo meter and a fuel gauge, the rest are simply lights so if 6psi... light on and STOP.
 
So dang now my oil pressure and oil temp doesn’t work. Knew I should have bought a Ford. I’m kidding of course. Still like my new truck. Pretty awesome
 
Actual oil pressure and temperature would be nice to know. I installed an oil pan heater on my truck to reduce engine wear and minimize warm up times. It would be nice to know how much of a difference it makes.
 
I can tell you - the oil will cool off almost instantly after you start the engine because it cycles through the ice cold water/oil heat exchanger.

If you want to do good use the factory block heater that gets your water up, that heats the oil up then.
 
They don't break until you repair them incorrectly!


No kidding!!! The Mechanic was in total agreement when I told him what you said at MM. He said he has only replaced two AISIN's and they were simply a swap as they were defective right from the Factory.

I had to laugh thinking back to MM when the AISIN was discussed. I have told that story about how "they don't break" MANY times to people that were considering a RAM VS GM and FORD. Now I will have to add "If they repair them correctly" :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top