When is new transmission being released?

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But they are not DSG transmission's, they are simple automated unsynchronized manual transmissions with a dry clutch.
Which are great by the way, I drove the iShift for several y ars on a daily basis and wouldn't want to go back to a standard transmission.

Good trans for the keeps one or both feet on the dashboard set of drivers. As the computer accepts only limited driver inputs. You’re there to steer & brake. Set the cruise control. (That’s it).

Not easy to left turn across a multi-lane road, and backing becomes a set of trade-offs.

I’ve several years OTR with them and they make life “easy” at the expense of being able to READ the road in applying solutions.

Better have disc brakes tractor & trailer as you’ll be using them MORE.

For the non-drivers, big trucks are about “momentum”. A clutch and gear choices make for FINER adjustments. (The pleasure of doing a job well). Breaking momentum is a question of degree & duration. (Experience into Skill).

In a Metro/Regional job it’s the way to go. OTR, no thanks. (As the OTHER computer “safety” crap generally comes with it. Take a look at crazy driving videos from crap countries and understand their being here is what drives this).

iShift is a real step up from the rest circa 2012, but a Detroit 12L/12-Auto is equally good day-in and out since 2017 ( Paccar about as good).

There aren’t many times to override the programming (speed for hill ascent is about it), just be aware they’re dogs in acceleration (when it may matter).

You get used to waiting.
 
More gears is about keeping the engine in its productive range.

Have to distinguish between Metro/Regional and OTR.

Consumer light duty pickups are commuter-mobiles. They don’t go far, and they’re rarely loaded to capacity. Use of engine power is favored.

Long-distance max capacity work isn’t part of the vehicle spec.

Short rpm drops between gears are needed for OTR/Max Capacity. Not otherwise.

Doing oilfield hotshot (and not having to worry about state scale houses on some runs), one learned to work with what was available. After all, even in that hard work, the average speed (total trip time versus miles; engine hour calculation) is barely affected.

Greater numbers of gears have to pay. Complexity, initial expense, reliability and estimated savings.

Engine Power isn’t the problem. Adding gears where it isn’t necessary wouldn’t make sense.

Gas motors lack cylinder pressure. The name of the game when work has to be done. Keeping them at an optimal RPM is a requirement (and fuel burn reduction pays for it).

I run Texas to the upper Midwest or East Coast with outbound loads grossing 78k. Cummins X15. 8-speed (which cracks up my friends, and rightfully so). That’s a 41k load in the box.

A backhaul of 20-30k means the rig moves almost as if empty. Engine power isn’t a problem.

— Empty, or nearly so, this combined rig accelerates like a bat out of hell.


The 13 I’d prefer it wouldn’t be so (unless skipping gears all the way up; not a good idea long-term).

As a lease tractor it’s set up for Regional work where one isn’t ever far from home (my boss grabbed it as part of a group of 10s offered in a package deal).

Does it prevent me from making the same money? (Ha!). Is my average speed lower in hilly or mountainous terrain? (Yes; it would be UNLESS spec’d for that as a constant as with all other OTR tractor-trailers which are not upgrade-friendly).

I can plan an ascent (despite difficulty by failure by all 4-whlrs to do so), but that’s NOT important compared to the descent where fewer gears has to be reckoned. (As marked upgrades or downgrades aren’t a significant aspect; this is not of concern).

The difficulty (noted by others in above posts) is in maintaining a relative constant in heavy 3,4,5-lane traffic which is Metro-only. (In a pickup you just give it throttle; big truck MUST gear-change).

Average Speed just won’t pay in short-distance out & back runs (under 300-miles total).

One eases along below the flow of traffic never changing lanes, never using throttle or brakes. Low Risk, in all ways (which is also almost highest MPG per engine hour).

The automated manuals in big trucks with 12-gears ALWAYS have a “correct” gear choice as with a 13 manual. Any condition (relative to other spec). But it’s AERO that pays the freight rate. (My 8 is same as a 13 in non-stop work).

To whine more about a light duty pickemup, you’ll need to look at the TQ/RPM chart for an X15 versus an ISB (or whatever they call the latest 6.7). Full EEC and a variable-vane turbo make BOTH more capable than what was available circa 1995.

My ‘04 Triple Nickle with the mans trans does what needs to be done. I couldn’t care any less you pass me on an ascent, as I’ll pass you ALWAYS in the need for fuel (the combination that works).

Sure, it’s be nice to have an even higher SECOND OD gear for Solo, but it wouldn’t ever pay for itself.

I wonder (and not too hard) if the correlation between wanting more gears and lousy tire/brake life is high.

A Diesel engine is meant to WORK against a load. That’s a panty-twister for the 40-60k tires & brakes crowd.

Yet more proof a diesel pickup was their wrong choice. Dodge has to build these to fulfill the spec. And put up with the softball daddies (ATVs on a trailer) hauling ass down the Interstate. 20k in options and another 15k in aftermarket. (Clowns).

Show us using Engine Hr versus Odometer Miles over the past year where AVERAGE Speed was unduly affected by not having MOAR GEARS.

As to MPG, start with showing us the ABOVE 30-MPH average (mines 47) that you’ve REMOVED bad driver habits as a source of unnecessary fuel burn. (All miles divided by engine hours. You log all fuel purchased, right?).

At 58-mph on cruise control, level Interstate, what’s the TESTED 200-mile round-trip average MPG?

Never tested it, did you? (The spread between worst and best drivers — professionals — is nearly a third). The only MPG “problem” is the driver. Doesn’t know how bad he actually is, and has never taken steps to rectify even the worst of it, as he DOES NOT KNOW that which his truck is capable. (All MPG contests are against ones self).

That one-third spread among pro drivers from bad to acceptable is your “extra gears”. (And can be improved by simple aero).

“Up the hill . . “ (seriously?).

.

Well written. I generally don't care much about fuel mileage, I buy my Rams for towing capability. I maintain fuel logs and will typically drive one tank each to see what the best mileage I can get out of my trucks unloaded solo and loaded towing. It's remarkable that the my 02 3500 with 6spd manual and 4.10s got almost 14 mpg solo, but my 09 4500 Aisin 4.44s high 12 mpg, same as my 17 5500 Aisin 4.88s also high 12 mpg. But they all averged in the 9s towing heavy and 11s solo, the way I drive.

One point, I had approximately 60K miles towing on my former 02 3500 and approximately 135K miles solo with the original clutch. The key was I shifted approximately 2600 rpms solo and approximately 2800 rpms towing, so clutch never loaded hard on the upshift. I had a BD EB that I used all the time with shifter mounted switch for diwnshifts. It also still had original brakes when I sold it, thanks to the EB.

Anyhoo, it's pretty interesting now I'm using my 5500 more as a daily driver than a massive tow rig. It's pretty fun to drive, kinda like riding a Clydesdale.

Enjoying this thread a lot.

Cheers, Ron
 
Good trans for the keeps one or both feet on the dashboard set of drivers. As the computer accepts only limited driver inputs. You’re there to steer & brake. Set the cruise control. (That’s it).

Not easy to left turn across a multi-lane road, and backing becomes a set of trade-offs.

I’ve several years OTR with them and they make life “easy” at the expense of being able to READ the road in applying solutions.

Better have disc brakes tractor & trailer as you’ll be using them MORE.

For the non-drivers, big trucks are about “momentum”. A clutch and gear choices make for FINER adjustments. (The pleasure of doing a job well). Breaking momentum is a question of degree & duration. (Experience into Skill).

In a Metro/Regional job it’s the way to go. OTR, no thanks. (As the OTHER computer “safety” crap generally comes with it. Take a look at crazy driving videos from crap countries and understand their being here is what drives this).

iShift is a real step up from the rest circa 2012, but a Detroit 12L/12-Auto is equally good day-in and out since 2017 ( Paccar about as good).

There aren’t many times to override the programming (speed for hill ascent is about it), just be aware they’re dogs in acceleration (when it may matter).

You get used to waiting.

I'm impressed, someone here that really knows that Transmission.
I was running it in city traffic as a dump truck, see why I loved it instead of stepping ten thousand times a day on the clutch. And I was one gear higher and therefore faster up the mountains then the same trucks with a manual in the company.
 
I'm impressed, someone here that really knows that Transmission.
I was running it in city traffic as a dump truck, see why I loved it instead of stepping ten thousand times a day on the clutch. And I was one gear higher and therefore faster up the mountains then the same trucks with a manual in the company.

After the first few months of driving a Titan 90 Chevy with 350 Detroit with a 13 speed Roadranger, I would use the clutch coming out of the yard in Port Angeles and then again in the service station in Forks, Wa with many gear changes in between in the 56 miles getting there. Running back empty I would skip gears also without the clutch. That 8V71 screaming Jimmy became an extension of my body, given I was sitting on top of it. And yes the right hand picture is in Forks. In the summer back in the late 70's that station could do 100,000 gallons a month. So I did that run 3 times a week.

Titan 90 Chevy.jpg
 
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After the first few months of driving a Titan 90 Chevy with 350 Detroit with a 13 speed Roadranger, I would use the clutch coming out of the yard in Port Angeles and then again in the service station in Forks, Wa with many gear changes in between in the 56 miles getting there. Running back empty I would skip gears also without the clutch. That 8V71 screaming Jimmy became an extension of my body, given I was sitting on top of it. And yes the right hand picture is in Forks. In the summer back in the late 70's that station could do 100,000 gallons a month. So I did that run 3 times a week.

View attachment 132159

Fully synchronized Transmissions on all European Semis for the last 50 years, you need to clutch to shift these, but jumping gears is fine.
 
To each his own, but I can’t imagine why you’d want a synchronized transmission in a truck. Just more wear items - both the truck and the body.
 
To each his own, but I can’t imagine why you’d want a synchronized transmission in a truck. Just more wear items - both the truck and the body.

They work fine for 600k Miles and afterwards the trucks are sold to the third world anyways. Dump trucks at 400k Miles. That's about the lifetime of a Semi in commercial use in Europe.
The traffic there is very demanding on the vehicles.
 
A big truck freighter with an “Auto” is great when you’ve memorized the roads and the traffic upon them. Can predict what’s up ahead unseen, reliably. (Metro).

Easing along below the flow of traffic with pre-set engine brake.

Manual (IMO) is favored when you don’t know what’s out ahead (rural, primarily), as grade changes and twisties “ask” for faster responses to NOT hold up traffic behind one; to keep average speed a bit higher.

It can be difficult to get very far out of the Low Side of the trans in some instances (lack of anticipation and some needed skill); low 20s in top MPH.

I’ve run liquid tankers with product having a high weight per gallon. That’s a monster you don’t want to wake up. Can do it with an Auto, but learning to manually override (keeping momentum high, not speed, per se) is harder than just running an 18.

Lack of a clutch becomes detrimental for fine adjustments in momentum.

Now, do I use my CTD/NV5600 that way? Choosing THE GEAR when off-highway is what matters over road speed. More so in towing. In a city I may be in Third over using Fourth to keep engine-braking highest for long stretches. Running 37 in a 45 zone. (Etc).

The ISB has a WIDE powerband. MPG is not penalized by good choices in SAFEST gear configuration, in my experience.

Shifts are slow — deliberate — compared to other light-duty vehicles (it FALLS into the next gear, done right). All about “the pause” going across Neutral.

There’s a driving skill point lost on nearly every pickup driver out there: let the stupids sort themselves out and clear the lanes before going around someone slower. Might take three miles or thirty in leaving town. So what? As once traffic devolves to individual packs of todays dumb-butt drivers, you’ll stay in a BIG gap between them all easing along.

When it’s time to pass, she’ll do it for you. (Cruise Control engaged until Cancelled any time into Passing Lane).

If one is working gear choices AGAINST TRAFFIC FLOW (letting others drive his actions once away from a metro region) he missed the first lesson his Daddy shoulda taught him.

Extra gears (like MOAR POWAH!) is a crutch for those who’ve never stood back and seen the larger picture: the idiots are HIGHLY predictable and EASY to work around.

Greatest Longevity with Highest Reliability doing the Greatest Amount of Work with the Lowest Fuel Burn is being able to just glide along unimpeded.

An Auto versus a Manual won’t change the outcome. Neither will more gears in either (despite a few more choices along the way; almost unusable, overall).

It’s heavy. It’s slow. It’s expensive to own & operate. Every choice in every minute trends for good or bad.

Best restraint on my actions: Imagining that tires will never again be available. Wear out the current set and the truck will never move again. (Turns, top speed, gear choice, parking plan, fuel stop, rest break, etc: all are affected).

No more cold start to run one errand (tires aren’t fully warmed up until 1.5-hours at 45-MPH).

45-MPH metro road with turning traffic, subdivision entrances, etc? Run a gear down until traffic light timing is mastered (never stop and never idle).

Etc.

More gears and extra HP don’t solve the underlying skills problem. Take some pleasure in out-witting the clueless.

You afraid of the pray-and-spray school of gun fighting? (I.D. and stay away). Or are you more rightfully in fear of him who knows how to set up a stalk?

Timing (proper goal of momentum). Music or driving or hunting.

You listen to that CTD and she’ll sing for you. (The 555/5600 were married in heaven).

The 4+2 Auto with a 6.7 is different, yet still nice what with expensive VVT required. (Trailer discs even MORE important; need to have big toe able to pop brakes for momentum change).

You’re only as fast as your brakes. (Ability to rapidly slow). Gear choice, then service brake.

When the light goes green do you start rolling even though there are four cars ahead of you? (Missed Daddy’s lesson on that too, huh? Rolling or Stopped: Spacing = Momentum).

More gears needed = low cylinder-pressure, and/or narrow powerband engine. (As against load, road, traffic). To maintain a constant average.

Today I’ll be leaving Tuscaloosa outbound from Dallas with the usual 41k aboard heading north towards Winchester, VA. Terrain that’ll have me dropping far too low in speed versus my preference what with but 8-gears in a KW pulling a reefer. Too large an rpm drop. (I “make time” on the southern route of IH20 versus using IH30).

In those sections of IH81 up the Shenandoah Valley, I’ll be backing off in getting other trucks around me nearly all afternoon. As I “might” sorta exceed the speed limit on the downgrade (traffic volume dependent). TO KEEP A CONSTANT GAP (not to “make time”, as I can’t).

Understand
that the future IS IN YOUR MIRRORS. You MUST manage traffic getting around you FASTEST (it’s also LAW to slow to get a slow pass around you). Maintain the spacing gap all day long. (Stay alone). If I drop from 65 to 55 until they’re over 100-yards ahead, it happens faster.

Note: You need 7-8 Interstate stripes or more when passing a big truck before getting back to travel lane still sharply accelerating away. He needs MORE than two football fields to come to a stop. I’m not going to roll this truck to avoid hitting you you cut me off with a 70-yard gap in entering or exiting the Interstate, or in passing then slowing once ahead of me. Stay the hell away. This truck WILL come to a full stop upright and lane-centered. What I can or cannot do at the wheel you should never place a bet.


So, I need more gears. But I’ve taken a high miles truck and gotten the lease shop to open tbe book to make her Bristol-shape. Worked hours on the trailer to remove as much “ugly” as I can besides getting a welder to repair interior, talk boss into better trailer tires, learn yet more about reefers with 32k hours on the almighty Kubota, etc. (Like the job and ain’t concerned about “missed truck spec”; it’s a good pair).

Your CTD is fine as delivered. Get a Scangauge or ULTRAGAUGE and read Engine Load Percent and keep it below 80%. (Don’t know that rule, do a search).

Shift the gears between the ears; get ahold of your emotions. . No new tires and a power restriction. Now, . . git’er dun.

.
 
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@StlowMover,
I like reading your detailed, well thought out posts. I like that you are a part of your vehicle and you have so much "math and science" involved in your driving. Unfortunately I think a lot of people in the truck driving world are nowhere near your level of expertise and are a long way from knowing (or caring) about that depth in their own driving.
When moving to a pickup, well you've moved to a whole new world. Majority of pickups are grocery getters driven by people who never learned to drive a stick shift period and their daddy never taught them any "arts of driving".
AS for the new transmission for the RAMS, the 6 speed is "adequate". It will do what you ask, it will do well in any situation. I would rather have the current Aisin in my truck than the 10 speed in the Ford or Chevy (I have a Ford work truck with this trans) but I would definitely take the the ZF 8 speed. The gear ratios are excellent, hill start, skip shift and neutral while idling are all bonus's to me. Necessary? Maybe not, but it dont hurt either. Is the Aisin great? Yes, but hopefully the ZF8HD will be better.
 
@StlowMover,
I like reading your detailed, well thought out posts. I like that you are a part of your vehicle and you have so much "math and science" involved in your driving. Unfortunately I think a lot of people in the truck driving world are nowhere near your level of expertise and are a long way from knowing (or caring) about that depth in their own driving.
When moving to a pickup, well you've moved to a whole new world. Majority of pickups are grocery getters driven by people who never learned to drive a stick shift period and their daddy never taught them any "arts of driving".
AS for the new transmission for the RAMS, the 6 speed is "adequate". It will do what you ask, it will do well in any situation. I would rather have the current Aisin in my truck than the 10 speed in the Ford or Chevy (I have a Ford work truck with this trans) but I would definitely take the the ZF 8 speed. The gear ratios are excellent, hill start, skip shift and neutral while idling are all bonus's to me. Necessary? Maybe not, but it dont hurt either. Is the Aisin great? Yes, but hopefully the ZF8HD will be better.



Thx. I’d imagine many or most here are good at what they do in similar ways to earn their bread & butter. Ask the man doing the job was how my father put it.

That said, there are owner-operators at a much higher altitude re knowledge than where I travel.

The truly dismaying aspect of multi-speed autos is the rebuild expense. I’ve heard $34k for an Eaton-12. (I don’t have a frame of reference for that number).

As to a CTD, when engine and trans rebuild expense are high enough to “total” the truck, I don’t want such.

The little-known 5-700 CID gas truck motors of Ford & GM from the early 1960s (or Dodge 413) at least were easy to pull & rebuild after 80-90k service in trucking. Cheap relative to the TRUE price of fuel as 2-3 rebuilds matched the Diesel engine drivetrain price against fuel burn. Once that ratio changed circa 1970, it became just that much harder for a man to go into business for himself hauling freight.

Same here with a CTD Auto. A man can run as hard as he wants with a 1T plus gooseneck, but not make a living and re-coup the price of a new truck after X-miles.

Steady-state is where Average MPG & Average MPH come together for analysis. Changes to the latter aren’t usually supported by the former (wear rate in all indicator categories increases).

EDMUNDS TRUE COST OF OWNERSHIP used to be a good beginners way to see relations of how money is put to work.

It always comes back to CPM: Cents-per-mile of owner & operational cost. A factory re-manufactured engine and factory-reman factored transmission are in one’s future before a profit is realized over X-years and Y-miles (paying one’s self a low wage relative to gross business income).

Had we stuck with circa 2004 diesel emissions standards the focus could have been upon increased drivetrain life + fuel economy. “Aero” haulers and the like.

Light-duty vehicles are essentially throwaways. Always have been. But there’s not been a good reason for continuing that in the last fifty years once the fixed costs all rose (Inflation & Financialization after leaving gold standard). Fuel quit being cheap as leverage in increased productivity (why turbine engine development in trains, trucks, buses, ships and cars came to a halt).

What’s the remanufactured price of a 6-Auto? Of an 8-Auto? Does the variance pay while on the road to offset “the improvement”?

Tax laws favor only those who already have something going (Amortization & Depreciation). A light duty or lower-classed hauler (semis are Class 8) should be a way for a man to make his way to where his best efforts fit the conditions he faces. (time & money).

Increased complexity isn’t paying.
Not that I can see.

Put it another way: where’s the point in time & miles where there’s no finance note or major repair such that operation is almost all profit?

Profit for softball daddy is the years of extra life putting a CTD squarely ahead of having bought a gasser. Extra gears ain’t the answer.

As he’s not hooked to a heavy load 200-300 days/year . . . it disappeared circa 2008 when diesel & gas prices flipped. 1995-2005 was roughly the period where Joe Sixpack could benefit in owning a diesel pickemup. Hauling his own stock and maybe earning a little extra taking his neighbors yearlings to/from the sale barn.

The modern big-inch gassers with an Auto-10 are less costly. New, and at life’s end. Including the price of fuel. Don’t give up anything till highest weight and number of annual days towing becomes critical (which won’t include RV’ers where solo miles always predominate).

Softball Dad may daydream about an overly large 5’er. He needs to get his act together and choose the trailer which better suits a lower overall cost (lifespan, not just weight). A trailer that won’t last as long as the finance note ain’t worth buying (composition roof, anyone?).

I’m getting old and was already crotchety. But I can’t imagine wanting a vehicle runs me above $1/mile in retirement. Or beforehand, for that matter. (Adjustment to my 2007 thinking makes that $1.40/mile).

“RV Life” in retirement will make me third-generation. The price of fuel of a days travel ought to be no more than the overnight ground rent at an RV park in my view (the basis for comparison)

$55/night
.
$3.60/gal

That’s 230-miles my 62’ combined-vehicle rig. IOW, the fixed daily cost of these two is at $100/day. (Pickup & Trailer bought with cash long ago; highway Average MPG was central consideration once past lifespan of each vehicle).

As towing is 1/2 of vacation miles while traveling, (write that down and understand it), it matters to get that pair to a suitable minimum initial and ongoing expense, otherwise a comfy sedan and lower cost motels makes more sense. (Many of which feature microwaves & refrigerators. A hot plate and an ENGEL in the car trunk then replicates what most RV’ers actually do to “cook”).

Also, there’s all sorts of ways to fool one’s self with RV budgets, and they nearly never include maintenance & repairs over time.
(Write that down also).

So,

1). How many days will I travel while hitched?

2). How many miles will that cover (distinct from solo miles on vacation)?

The price of an RV (combined vehicle) is that over and above what was better suited as transportation. Per night aboard.

1). Standard price of a good family vehicle. Deduct that from a diesel pickemup. (Add expense of major repair)

2). Add RV price (ongoing annual costs; plus repairs budget).

3). The typical American RV’er travels a few weeks total time annually. 5,000-miles extra to his normal total.

— $30k more for the diesel pickup in order to pull an overly heavy 5’er. Over five years ownership at 30-nights, that’s $200/night.

— $70k for RV at 5/years & 30-nights annually = $450/night.

Extra gears ain’t gonna pay the freight. Won’t reduce running costs (neither does tuning). Neither, also, does TOW/HAUL on Autos as “safety” (needs antilock trailer brakes + trailer independent suspension).

— The way to play the equation of tow vehicle & trailer is to assign as much or more money to the RV (indefinite lifespan, not 70-80k miles), and reduce the TV initial expense. Lower diesel fuel burn alone can’t do it.

The plan to exit RV’ng is as important as the one of getting into it. It’s not illness or family crises which cause most folks to give up. It’s the ongoing overhead expenses which cancel the pleasure of being carefree. Parked in the Colorado Rocky Mountains, but can’t afford the day trips to explore the state.

Getting somewhere is just one-half the vacation. It shouldn’t represent the majority of the ongoing expense (vehicles paid for and now down to own/op numbers).

Diesel pickups backed themselves into a corner (BS gov regs). But fuel price did the most damage (energetic content per gallon) once prices flipped.


My last semi-tractor was a full-on typical corporate aero effort. Consider that with:

an engine twice the displacement

a curb weight twice as heavy

an aero height twice that of a pickup

more than twice as many tires

I could run bobtail (no trailer) and get almost the same fuel mileage as plenty of you running solo given your reports. At the end of the day it didn’t matter you got there twenty-minutes ahead.

Both of us are in OD. Running steady-state.

That’s the problem to solve for.

If the extra gears can’t aid in keeping the average speed consistent (terrain & load primarily), they certainly won’t in FE terms.

Detroit just plays with power numbers once they can program engine output/turbo vane angles using more gears. In pickups.

Not to lower your operational costs.

Big trucks are far ahead of where they were circa 2004 (as against early Third Gen; the last time power/economy was in balance).


.
 
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What’s the safe standard for a family vehicle towing an RV to reach 60-MPH from a standing start (stoplight then down Interstate ramp)? 1969 or 2022?

20-seconds.

That’s considerably faster than in my work semi-tractor/trailer under a load.

So here’s a test for those think my 555 is underpowered compared to their latest & greatest 6.7L:

load the pickup to scaled GVWR and learn to drive it that condition for thirteen weeks.

“Mo’ Gears” won’t change what needs changing. You’ll be slower than me a long time pickup-to-pickup we’re both at gross.

What goal in FE will you have? “You” (whomever) needs to match my fuel burn, not just my speed. As driver skill is the thing.

3+1 Auto during the transmission war days of the early 2000s was a louder boom than the Space Shuttle exploding above us one morning I was reading them (ha!).

5+1 New Venture fixed that problem until the 4+2 Auto came along.

Will the economy of running a CTD increase as it did with big trucks?

Big trucks didn’t gain more gears. Auto-12 slowed them down in take-off and corrected for stupid drivers still barely able to use a Manual Ten after a couple of years.

Aero, and route-planning (plus zero idle policies) are the changes which counted.

Truckstops went almost silent once diesel bunk heaters plus APU’s kept the sleeper comfy all year long.

All added up to a higher average MPH in reduced engine hours (aero trailing along lowering HP demand).

Tailoring engine power to demand became tighter (as extended idling can’t really be done).

If more power — and now more gears desired — haven’t decreased 0-60 times towing plus increased fuel mileage, then . . .

What’s being paid for?


.



.
 
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Not sure about that....but one thing is for sure.....they do put me to sleep.

I'm ok with the content and read on and on and on, and like all the details,.. just not sure everyone is idiots or stupid tho, or wasting there money because they like to drive fast and don't care so much about ROI...( I sure as heck don't IU guess or I would've kept my 04 :rolleyes: )

BTW.. FWIW---> I loved my "triple nickel / nv5600 truck"!!.........But it is not the best "ever", I turned it up as many have, and "I" enjoyed it so much I kinda wish I still had it, but it would just sit and we've been over that.....

I do like everything about my 1000/400/AISIN and Im sure the next will be the same, or better again... I dont "NEED" a 10 or 8spd but who knows, and I do respect the opinion and information in these posts, just not constant that reinforcement that everyone is Stupid or wasting there "money",... Ok I get it...

Remember the TDR Montra :: Your Truck, You Money.

JM2C.......... Cheers!

Brian
 
He was lucky he didn’t kick a wheel, must of had the 4 way diff locks engaged.
Back in my driving days that would not have flown.

We always shifted against the governor so there was a steady flow of power when the engine took the load.

Unless you really like backing down hills loaded, then you can be as jerky with a shift as you want..:D
 
For those that don’t know this is what is called a “Self Loader”.

He gets to sit on that seat in the middle of the trailer and load himself. Popular in places as a crane doesn’t have to be moved to the yard to load the trucks.
Works good for remote and smaller crews.

Have seen several injuries over the years where the maxi brake springs for the parking brakes weaken and the guy doesn’t realize this until he finishes loading on a grade and picks up the outriggers….truck takes off with him still in the loader seat…jump and try not to get run over…friend of mine got a trailer stake pocket right in the back when he bailed off..

Also happens on ice….
 
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