help

[seafish]

So I am curious why some of you think that a dealership would pay to replace the oil pan on a truck that is out of warranty and whose problem was caused by owner maintenance ?

 

[EDankievitch]

Check the Help parts section of your auto parts store they use to have a drain plug just for this issue. I had to use one on a beach construction truck. JB weld might be ok for a fuel tank and an outboard motor lower unit but those don’t get as hot as your oil pan. The JB might not be able to take the heat.
I wouldn’t tell the dealership that it was super tight. I’d probably say you you noticed oil on your driveway. Went to check the plug and it fell out. And you and them got lucky it didn’t come out while you were driving.

 

[Turbo Terry]

May stepson has electrical problems with his truck. It stays outside all winter. He took it to the car wash. Underbody wash it started to act up after the wash. He told me I’m going to make the car wash pay for the repair. I’m still laughing about that really yeah right

 

[sag2]

Welding in a new bung would be my choice, no matter who pays. Unless you are in the salt belt and your pan is starting to rust, the collateral damage risk far outweighs welding one in. The most difficult part is going to be getting the oil inside the pan away from the opening. I would pour diesel in the crankcase as needed to flush out as much of the residual oil, then followed by plenty of brake clean sprayed through the drain hole. Air dry for a couple hours, then jack up the truck so any residual oil stays away from the hole. Sand the powder coat off the area and weld it up. I don't see a need for TIG, just run a bead with a MIG and call it a day.

 

[wyosteve]

If the above feels it's ok to lie to the dealership, then he must also feel it's ok for a dealership to lie to the customer!! Not cool!

 

[Jim W]

I haven't really looked that closely at my oil pan on my truck. But if this is manufactured similar to the oil pans that we used at Cat than some of the bungs were welded on the inside of the pan. A counterbore was chamfered around the hole where the bung was pushed through the hole. A BEVEL WELD of the appropriate size was placed radially around the hole. From the pictured of the failed component, I did not see any weld material around the failed bung. What I would be afraid of would be weld slag on the inside of the tank that could come lose or is already lose from the failed bung and damage the engine.

Another point everyone that is suggesting welding by a weld shop how is the welder going to weld this up? If the truck is similar to my truck, there is not enough room to work efficiently under the truck. Ok, you may say raise the truck on a lift! Most weld shops that I am aware of do not have lifts that would support an 8,000 LB truck. Where will the grounding clamp be placed? Most of the time it should be fairly close to your weld zone. Then an electricidal current is being pass through the engine. Will this cause any damage to the electrical components on the truck?

To me it is safer and less costly just to replace the pan and be done with it. If the OP does not want to buy or has one already an engine lift. They can be rented from a rental store fairly inexpensively.

Again, it is his truck and dime so, ultimately it is his decision.

GOOD LUCK

Let us know what the outcome is.

 

[Jim W]

An extra post not required.

 

[Cummins12V98]

So I am curious why some of you think that a dealership would pay to replace the oil pan on a truck that is out of warranty and whose problem was caused by owner maintenance ?

SIMPLE, they tightened too tight causing this problem. No joke WalMart would replace the pan. I have seen it. Warranty has nothing to do with this. It’s about doing the job he paid for and them doing it wrong.

 

[Topzide]

A set of ramps will get truck high enough to do the welding. As far as a ground point, A magnetic ground would be my choice. Just clean an area large enough for contact to get to bare metal. If the OP has receipt for previous oil change, Then a discussion with the dealer would be needed. If it is a reputable dealer, then they should step up and replace oil pan to gain insight into how the failure occurred. Cummins might even want to know what happened. Who at the dealership did oil change? Was it a diesel tech or an oil lane tech? Was plug cross threaded or just no weld to hold and it just let go. Not a good feeling to think that it wasn't welded it all that good. Glad I put in a Femco drain valve to no longer have to remove plug. Have extra drain hose that lives in tool box on truck in case it's needed when traveling. Made a PVC pipe case for it to not have oil all over tool box.

 

[Lordsman]

I do all my own maintenance on my truck so what is recommended torque on the oil pan drain?
Haven't had any problems but figured I'd ask!

 

[Cummins12V98]

I do all my own maintenance on my truck so what is recommended torque on the oil pan drain?
Haven't had any problems but figured I'd ask!

1/2" ratchet with 3/8 reducer with hand within 6" of head bring to yield, good e-nuff!!!

 

[Too Tall]

I'd weld it. I think I could still do it with my old shaky hands.

 

[Too Tall]

I do all my own maintenance on my truck so what is recommended torque on the oil pan drain?
Haven't had any problems but figured I'd ask!

RAM's manual says 37 1/2 ft/lbs, Plug (cummins) says 35 ft/lbs. Not that it matters in this case but the RAM service manual has a lot of errors

 

[EDankievitch]

Wait…. You mean you are NOT supposed to use the 3/4” Impact with the 3/8” adapter on that drain plug????