Recent Content by claykelly

I guess you need to find out what mirrors you bought first. I would say you got something wrong as far as year models or something. I've done a couple of these and never had a problem.

When you take your old bases off, you'll booger up the retainers pretty good. It's easier to replace them rather than bend them back into shape. A word of caution here, when you pry the retainer nuts off, be careful. That spring under the retainer is quite stiff and will come flying back at your...

I think the problem is with the aluminum wheels. Earlier models, pre '00, used 13" drums. The later model thicker alum wheels, used on 12" drum and disc brake rears, will not clear the the older larger drums. If you're using steelies you should be okay... but can't say for sure on that.

Yup, Royal is correct. Dodge wants $65. 00 for the EXACT same kit (even has the Cummins number under the Mopar sticker). I got one from my local Cummins dealer 2 days ago for $7. 42. Really easy, I'd never had mine off before, took me about 2 hours or so, and I did a lot of cleaning. D...

Nebraska: Diesel $3. 39, unleaded $2. 39. Completely rediculous and unjustified :( Too bad the truckers are mostly all corporate nowadays, a trucker strike like we had years ago might be in order again :D

Find an AutoZone store, or maybe order it online, but get the Dayco. AutoZone sells Dayco and it's the OEM mfg for the tensioner. It was $60. 00 for mine about 2 months ago. Don't try to get a tensioner made by Gates, it will not line up correctly and will make the belt ride off the back of the...

No, you don't have to modify any switches or anything like that. Just convert the mirror heads, and wire them into your existing mirror wiring in the door. I don't have the color codes, maybe someone here does, but it's pretty easy to do with a voltmeter and trial/error. Just remember, if you're...

It's easy to get them mixed up, there's actually position switches in the mirrors so that it "knows" whether they're flipped up or down, that way the knob always works the same, ie. up is always up. It's easy to figure out with a voltmeter and either a little battery charger or even better some...

Maybe just unlucky, not sure, but I wouldn't recommend being outside in a lightning storm... . lol :eek: And that's fine, I'm sure it's not for everyone, I figure it can't be any worse than what's OEM now. I've never seen such a p***-poor design and there's no excuse as to not issuing a...

I think comparing a 4 cylinder EFI pump that delivers much higher pressure (40-90psi) to a low pressure (10-20psi) transfer pump is apples and oranges. In reality it doesn't take much of a pump to deliver the kind of fuel the VP needs, it just has to hold up and not fail like the OEM Carter...

Not sure if it's the best, but considering the number of cars/trucks on the road that use in tank pumps, and the percentage of failures of those compared to what the failure rate of the engine mounted electric pump is, I'd say it's a pretty good upgrade for the money. I've had at least 10 gas...

Well, sounds like the lift pump is running, or trying to run... ... ... okay, then what?

Some good info for folks needing LP's... . Bump

Currently it isn't a superseded part from the engine mounted one, but I (and the dealer) have a feeling that it will be once the Carter pumps are exhausted.

Looks like Dodge has released the OEM upgrade for the engine mounted lift pump to the in tank pump like the 3rd gens now have superseded to. I spoke to my local Dodge dealer today and he said the parts are in the system, the wiring harness is at the depots, but there's 92 fuel pump modules not...