2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 01 4wd ball joints

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Well mine have died [235k] checking here I found several threads on how to change them [THANKS everyone]. My question which ones to buy? They semm to range from 21.00 each to 100.oo each. 95% of my driving is street or improved dirt road. Several times a year I pull a 6k TT and back and froyh to work.
 
You are welcome. I like buying from them and Geno's. My 98 had 300k and the drivers side upper just showed signs of wear so I did all the ball joints, wheel hub assemblies (Timken) U joints (Dana) at 380K tie rod ends are still factory. Basically all Items were factory OE.
 
Rock Auto.com

Look for Moog pro series they are more but are em quality. Any of the pro series should be good.[/QUOTE

I've used MOOG Problem Solvers, are the Pro Series better than the Problem Solvers? One thing you have to be careful with, I've seen some MOOG ball joints come with the knurled joints. This is for vehicles that have had the ball joints changed out a few times and require a slightly larger diameter joint for a tight fit. Once you use the knurled joint you may be replacing the control arm next time around. When I did ball joints on my truck a few years ago I went with the MOOG Problem Solvers. They've been good so far but I've only got 40-50k on them so far. I saw Carli advertising ball joints for 2nd gens, depending on how long the MOOG last that may be my choice next go around. What ever you decide on a greasable joint would be at the top of my list. My OEM's only lasted about 70k miles and were completely dry. No doubt in my mind if I could have gotten some grease in them periodically they would have lasted much longer.
 
Rock Auto.com

Look for Moog pro series they are more but are em quality. Any of the pro series should be good.[/QUOTE

I've used MOOG Problem Solvers, are the Pro Series better than the Problem Solvers? One thing you have to be careful with, I've seen some MOOG ball joints come with the knurled joints. This is for vehicles that have had the ball joints changed out a few times and require a slightly larger diameter joint for a tight fit. Once you use the knurled joint you may be replacing the control arm next time around. When I did ball joints on my truck a few years ago I went with the MOOG Problem Solvers. They've been good so far but I've only got 40-50k on them so far. I saw Carli advertising ball joints for 2nd gens, depending on how long the MOOG last that may be my choice next go around. What ever you decide on a greasable joint would be at the top of my list. My OEM's only lasted about 70k miles and were completely dry. No doubt in my mind if I could have gotten some grease in them periodically they would have lasted much longer.

I honestly don't remember what they were called but they were their best quality and US Made.
 
You are welcome. I like buying from them and Geno's. My 98 had 300k and the drivers side upper just showed signs of wear so I did all the ball joints, wheel hub assemblies (Timken) U joints (Dana) at 380K tie rod ends are still factory. Basically all Items were factory OE.

Looked on Geno's didn't find ball joints. I also buy lots from them and would like to get ball joints from them.
 
There was a write up on one of the forums, where someone compared the different ball joints. The writer suggested Raybestos Pro Grade with a slight offset. They used to be McQuay-Norris. I wish I had the write up. Rockauto has those also.
 
Rock auto is another great place to get stuff. Thanks to all for replies. Will decide after holidays and get them done.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Years.
 
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