05-07 Dodge Cummins BD 48RE Automatic Transmission Pressure Controller from BD Power

[buzzinghalfdozen24]

First off I am having some transmission slippage that I need to get taken care of. 2005 Dodge 2500, Auto. I just rebuilt the engine for other reasons, and installed larger injector tips, 60 over. And I put a bully dog tuner on my truck. Engine runs great. I knew doing this that with 212k miles on it that I was going to find the transmission was weak. Which it is. It's not the end of the world if I have to do a full transmission rebuild but would like some expertise of if a full rebuild is necessary or if there are any other improvements that could be done instead. My trans slips under light to medium throttle, and is more prone to doing it with cold oil. Yet when it warms up it drives fine with no slippage. I have hated the way it shifts since day one above 3/4 throttle, but maybe that is a seperate issue with tuning or a valve body. But anyway. When it slips it occasionally "bucks" hard and won't shift out of gear or do anything untill basicall let down to idle speed, then it will shift again and take off fine. And everything apprears to be fine with aggressive driving too. I just ran across this item from BD diesel that has the exact description of what my issues are, and if I added a stiffer valve body I have reason to think I could avoid a transmission rebuilt. My concern is if this is a "safe" modification to be running, because it fools the transmission to upping fluid pressures. I guess to say it another way, I dont mind tricking the transmission if it is legitimate and won't damage anything. Anybody had any experience with this item, my problem, or anything related?



Transmission oil has only 10,000 miles since a flush, filter change, etc and fluid is very clean.



Particular item is called... 05-07 Dodge Cummins BD 48RE Automatic Transmission Pressure Controller from BD Power.



Thanks

 

[cerberusiam]

The item you are referencing is a shift enhancer. It is essentially an electronic TV cable adjustment. OE provided no adjustment so these shift enhancers awere developed to address the need to ramp TV pressure quicker with less throttle. Depending on the source of your problem it may or may not help.



Used on a stock trans with no added fueling they can introduce some weird issues, depending on how trans is working. It is not going to anything for shifting above 3/4 throttle but will stretch your shift points some at normal throttle.



Not exactly sure what your slipping is or what conditions it occurs, not what the "buck" is actually in response to. However, if you have not changed out the gov solenoid and transducer in the last 40k or so suspect them.



Adding line and apply pressure to a stock trans with low mileage can be done and it works quite well. With ahigher mileage trans like yours it can be problematic. When the pressures are upped other things need to be changed and addressed.

 

[CBowden]

48RE transmissions..... I own a 2006; in 2009 with 55k miles I was getting slippage from

2nd to 3rd. . so did some reasearch on a local transmission shop. . took it in and they explained my options...

1. Replace the gears with steel gears and put in a shift kit and replace the govenor pressure Solenoid with Borg Warner and replace pressure swith.

2. Due the above but also replace the VB and go to a triple lock TC



Since I was going to keep the truck I went with option 2 the most expensive option. The truck shifted better and no slippage, but I kept throwing the P1740, like once a week it would throw it. After six months the truck started surging and then I lost forward gears. . had reverse. Called the shop and they sent a tow truck 200 miles to come get it; they replaced a few things and made some adjustments. Worked ok; except kept throwing that P1740 code, the shop said it was probably the cam sensor.



A month later it woud not shift from 2nd to 3rd. . so the shop came and got it again. . this time they replaced the whole transmission with another stock rebuilt transmission, so know I am back to stock and gun shy about either having it rebuit or buying an aftermarket beefed up one. I have heard people on here say that even after spending $6-10k on an aftermarket they still throw the P1740 codes or have issues. . so my advice is becareful on how you spend your hard earned dollars. I wish I knew of a company that built a auto transmission for our motors that would hold up flawlwssly with no quirks.



Good Luck

brian

 

[LNaugle]

People! call suncoast transmissions! they have been specializing in dodge trannies for long time! they have solutions for you! all of their trannies we have installed,and valve bodies, and torque converters, haven't thrown codes, work great, and they are very knowledgeable... . atleast call em an tell em your story... . i have also heard good things about Goeren transmissions... .

 

[MegaJeff]

I believe that code is thrown when your lower stall TC disagrees with the computer on when to shift. The computer will throw the code and after so many key starts, it clears. My 06 used to do that with my Goerend triple disk TC (which I loved) but it never affected the way the truck performed. I think your transmission builder did not know what he was doing! That's why it failed. Did you get money back? I assume you were initially charged for performance items that you did not end up with? Sheesh.

 

[cerberusiam]

I believe that code is thrown when your lower stall TC disagrees with the computer on when to shift.

FYI, the P1740 code is a TCC Solenoid Performance error. The ECU is monitoring rpms and output shaft speed. When it does not see enough rpm drop on lockup it thinks the solenoid is not functioning correctly when it really is.



A tighter TC limits the rpm drop from fluid coupling to lockup so it ends being a nuisance at times if you don't drive thru it. Some trucks will just code and keep going, others will go to limp mode and force a restart.



Most builders have a resistor to help with the codes.

 

[MegaJeff]

SO there you go! Thanks Cerbusiam! I knew you would have the answer. Where does the resistor go so I can make sure my next builder knows how to do it? My last truck just kept driving fine after the code "ding". I am having my new truck (another 06) rebuilt on a preventative basis to handle my toyhauler. Where does the resistor go?

 

[cerberusiam]

My guess is it is going into the output speed sensor sense circuit. That would reduce to return signal and fool the ECU into thinking there is more of an rpm drop.



What it is and how it works am not sure. You might want to source one from one of the big builders and get their input and instructions.

 

[Prairie Dog]

The signal from the speed sensor is like a pulse so a resistor would just make it weak but not really alter it. Is there any chance they use a resistor and a capacitor? Doing this you could make the signal correct (at least to what the computer wants to see).

 

[MegaJeff]

I guess I will just see if the ECU has an issue with the code being thrown or if it just keeps on going like my other truck did. Sorry to hyjack the thread... .

No need to worry if it isn't broke... yet.

 

[George Cameron]

This may be way off, but...



I thought I read somewhere that the line pressure solenoid on the valve body was controlled by a 0-1 amp current signal with 1 amp at idle and 0 amps at full throttle (hence full pressure in limp home mode if there is a controller fault). If one adds a 1-2 ohms of resistance into the solenoid coil circuit it would do the same thing as increased throttle position.



One of the features of the BD and DTT enhancers is that the effect is switchable from zero to max effect. I called DTT and spoke to one of Bill Kondolay's techs. He recommended installing the Borg Warner heavy duty solenoid as a first step.



My solenoid goes in next week after I get over a nasty cold/flu thing.

 

[ColemanR]

Mine kept throwing the same code not to long after a rebuild. Changed out the govenor soleniod and transducer fixed all the shifting probs for about 30 miles then it started all over tried everything you can think of then changed them both out again now it works perfect. I hate to break it to you with those miles and a new motor with mods you are living on borrowed time. I limped mine for about 15k doing what yours is doing. A new trans and it will feel like a new truck Mine was done by Source Automotive in Clackamas Ore. They are AWESOME to deal with my trans has about 165k on it trans pan is completely clean.

 

[cerberusiam]

The signal from the speed sensor is like a pulse so a resistor would just make it weak but not really alter it.

Is it? Or does the sensor change it to a constant signal that can be fooled? Not sure on that or what they use to try to stop that code as I have not had that problem yet and needed the sensor.



The 1740 code is different from the gov pressure signal and you get different codes for errors there. The gov pressure is controlled by the solenoid which is controlled by the ECU but only influences shifting no the lockup circuit and the monitoring there.



All that aside, the solenoid could just be bad also and the extra stress is causing it to start to fail.

 

[CBowden]

It just seems odd to me that after someone spends thousands of $$ to have a transmissin upgraded you would not be hassled with the P1740 code. I agree it would throw the code and I would not notice any differnec in the way the truck shifted; only once when I was pulling my trailer did it throw the code and go into limp mode... . on my way to hunting camp. .



So has anyone had a 48RE transmission rebuilt or bought a transmission from Suncoast or Goren and not had any issues?



I am not happy with my transmission back to stock; but being in Montana and not having a transmission shop that I have 100% confidence in and after spending $5500 to have it rebuilt once I am a little gun shy to pull the trigger again. But saying that I am not happy being back to stock, just last night I was moving my trailer 6k and when backing it up it just seemed like it did not have the power to move it like it should.

 

[cerberusiam]

Between the 1740 code and the shuttle shift, you have a point. The unfortunate truth is the rebuild process focuses on the hard part failures not the electronic problems, which is where the root of all these problems lie.



In the transmission builders defense, they don't have the expertise or tools to reprogram the computer to work effectively with the updates, nor can they get around the crappy electronic parts that are available.



Goerend went so far as to develop a constant pressure VB to try to address the ocntrol issues. I don't know if he ever succeeeded 100% or even what the actual help was. Might give him a call and see if he can shed some light.



DTT is relatively close to you, a certified builder may be closer. You and Bignasty are neighbors and he has a brand spanking new DTT. You might see if it performs more along the lines of what you are looking for.

 

[LNaugle]

Like I said... call suncoast they have valvebodys that come with custm transducers and solenoids... . i havent had code 1740 pop up on any of their transmissions or valve bodys except one time when they ran out of parts and had to send me stock transducer and solenoid to get truck going but sent right ones later and fixed truck. I have seen their valvebodies handle 130-150 hp smarty tunes with 35s on trucks that people actually use and are STILL using ! Get what you pay for... .

 

[ColemanR]

When Source Automotive did my truck this last time about 165k ago my trans has been perfect the whole time. The time before that is when I had the transducer problem that trans went 200K before snapping a input shaft(My Bad) This was before Source Automotive bought out Dunrite Transmission.

 

[MegaJeff]

CBowden... I did find it frustating that the mil light stayed on when the code was thrown but as I said, the truck functioned just fine even when towing my 5er. I couldn't afford to have it sit around and wait for a fix. Dave Goerend is the one who explained this to me and said it was just something we live with when we install a lower stall TC.



Cerberusiam, I am having this transmission redone now (another truck) and I spoke the the shop and they still trust the stock governor solenoid and said they have had issues with the Borg/Warner unit. Should I force the issue or let it go since since they are going to stand behind the new rebuild? They have always done good work for me and have a great reputation in the greater PHX market.

 

[cerberusiam]

The stock solenoid is a Borg Warner, the upgrade to OE is a Borg Warner, the GM substitute is a Borg Warner. That is like saying they had a problem with Raybestos clutches. :-laf



Not sure exactyl what problem thye had or are talking about. I fo know the OE and OE upgrade solenoids have been known to be bad out of the box. Have yet to see the GM type do the same thing but it is possible as they are all cheaply made.



More often than not, the transducer ends up being th eproblem because they really are crap out of the box. The one person I know of that swore the GM type was bad found out the transducer was the actual problem. It work sort of with the OE soenoid and not at all with the GM. Swapped the transducer and all was good.



All I know is with the GM type swap I have no more issues with shuttle shift that were there with a high mileage OE, the shift points are always consistent, and never over rev when going WOT.

 

[buzzinghalfdozen24]

Wow, I forgot to check my original thread for replies. Now, years later, I can tell you I did a full trans rebuild myself with I think stage 3 kit. I got a much larger forward band that should hold 1000 up. I used a transgo shift kit for the valve body, and used a suncoast triple disc converter. I also put on the bd pressure ditch. I had "zero" issues and I love my transmission. Love getting on the throttle and not having to worry about my trans. Save yourselfs a lot of money, do the build yourselves. Hate to know what a shop would charge but my parts were like $2000 only.