Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
****NOTE - this is a work in progress***
Hi Guys,
Take a read thru this series of posts on the stage 1,2,3,4 and if you see something that should be added/removed/adjusted etc. post your idea indicating which section, which topic/line and what you'd like to see altered, and altered with your choice...
Bob 1st Gen Mod.
In order to develope a proper sequence of performance upgrades and derive the maximum benefit from them,there are some necessary steps required.
Keep in mind that the list(s) below are shown to give an "ideal build" were ever possible. It is possible to limit the extent of some items/work and achieve satisfactory results depending on expectations or results desired.
First of all, the truck MUST have some basic instrumentation. The purpose of which, is to give you an original set of baseline readings, as well as prevent serious consequences such as piston/head damage or runaway.
These readings would be used to determine the effectiveness and/or impact of any changes made to the truck. Also it is advised that you keep track of the particular readings for reference sake.
Any testing should be done, if possible, under the same conditions as all original tests. For example, ambient temperature, humidity, fuel w/wo additives, stretch(s) of roads, weight load, etc.
It is fairly easy to develope a spreadsheet for tracking these items/results.
That being said, here is what may be considered the first step in the process...
"Stage 1"
1) Instrumentation must include:
>Pyrometer: For measuring exhaust gas temperatures (EGT's) This should be mounted pre-turbo for most effective/accurate readings. Since the shutdown temperature(s) are as important as operating temperatures, it would be ideal to have a second pyrometer mounted "Post-Turbo" as well. In real life however this may be seen as excessive and care should be taken to assure that the engine is shutdown only after EGT's have fallen well below 300*F with a "Pre-Turbo" pyro mount.
>Tachometer: For properly measuring/utilizing engine torque and HP ranges. As performance is increased the engine RPM range tends to increase as well. Often times, injection pump adjustments alone can cause idle RPM changes. A tachometer is need to recognize and make adjustments as the "build" proceeds.
>Boost Guage: For tracking the boost pressures of the turbo charger. Very high boost levels are not a necessity in a good "build". Your boost levels should only be sufficient to allow for full burning of the fuel charge. In some cases the boost levels can reach a point were they actually become a detriment to engine performance and longevity. The turbo component must be configured to match the fueling levels, RPM and operating range desired.
>Transmission temp guage:This is used if the truck is equiped with an automatic transmission stock or otherwise. Since trans. temps can be CRITICAL to a transmission's lifespan it is a necessary instrument. In addition to the normal servicing of the transmission, in the case of the Getrag 5spd, it should be overfilled by roughly 1 quart. This will help extend the life of the transmission and prevent any of the internal bearings from going unlubricated when operated at steep angles or heavy acceleration.
** Availability: The availability of the above mentioned guages as well as others not mentioned is fairly good. If the particular guage/mount you want is not in stock it can be ordered in a fairly short time. It is recommended that you speak with a shop that specializes in diesel performance, in order to assure some measure of confidence in recieving the correct instrumentation the first time. There are some well known names in this field and should present no problem in finding the appropriate gauges to suit your needs.
2) Replacement of the existing OEM air filter: By using an aftermarket, high flow filter and opening up airbox/use of aftermarket airbox you will permit the maximum amount of airflow, properly filtered, to reach the turbo charger.
There are a number of options in this
** Availability: There are a number of options in this field. Some of the more well known examples are the AFE, K&N, BHAF (big honkin air filter).
>Replacement of Exhaust System: For the purpose of removing the crushed and restrictive sections of the OEM exhaust. The diesel engine does not want any restriction in this system, unlike the gas engine which can utilize back pressure.
Currently there are 3", 3 1/2", and 4" systems available with some being custom made for particular truck(s).
** Availability: While the 3" and 3 1/2" mandrel bent systems are fairly common to the bigger name performance diesel shops there are some smaller companies who have excellent, well priced products. Do your research first. In the area of 4" exhaust from the turbo back there is very little available in the form of "Kits". You can have a "one of" bent for your truck. They are a snug fit on the 1st Gens, particularly on the 4X4 models.
One shop in BC has taken a chance and are building 4" systems to suit each truck from the turbo back, to try and help the 1st Gen owners out.
>Turbo Exhaust Housing: The best method of improving throttle response and boost pressure is ususally achieved by changing the exhaust housing size. These housings ranged from 21cm to 18. 5cm with the latter being the smallest OEM on a factory 1st Gen truck. The replacement can be a 16cm, 14cm, or 12cm. Generally the 14cm and the 12cm are a wastegated housing which allows excess boost to be vented, preventing overboost/high drive pressures due to the smaller housing sizes.
The 16cm is a straight bolt on change. When going to the smaller housings such as the 14cm or 12cm, it may be necessary to shorten the downpipe just back from it's connection to the turbo.
** Availability: The only exhaust housing that could be called a bit scarce is the Non-Wastegated 14cm housing. They are a little more difficult to come by and often takes some time to order in. As for the other options they are generally easily available. **NOTE** as you go DOWN in housing size, you should achieve "roughly" 2-3 psi more boost over the previous housing, assuming no other changes.
>Modest adjustments of the injection pump. These are generally the "free" power enhancements that are fairly easy to make. They should be done in a methodical manner to assure the desired results. Generally they can all be done by the owner with a few simple hand tools and a small amount of time.
>Pressure test the intercooler to confirm no leaks. Currently the original OEM intercooler is no longer being produced as a "new" item. DC has discontinued them because 10 years is the amount of time that parts must be made available under law. Currently the best you can do is to have an existing intercooler rebuilt (similar to a radiator rebuild) or, purchase an aftermarket intercooler.
>Other less obvious items: This would include removing and "porting/polishing things such as the "intake horn on the intake manifold, the exhaust manifold ports, modest porting/polishing of the inlet side of the turbo exhaust housing (care needs to be used here so as to avoid reducing "velocity" into the housing "snail"), internal polishing of the elbow were it exits the compressor side of the turbo and so on. Remember, smooth surfaces facilitate air flow. Again, these appear to be minor items on the surface, however, cumulatively they can make a difference, whether it is improving airflow in or out, the ability to increase fueling, reduce temperatures etc.
** This should result in approximately 30-40 HP increase over stock systems. In addition, if properly done you could reasonably expect to see some improvement in mileage and performance with little impact on drivetrain longevity.
Bob
Continued:
Hi Guys,
Take a read thru this series of posts on the stage 1,2,3,4 and if you see something that should be added/removed/adjusted etc. post your idea indicating which section, which topic/line and what you'd like to see altered, and altered with your choice...
Bob 1st Gen Mod.
In order to develope a proper sequence of performance upgrades and derive the maximum benefit from them,there are some necessary steps required.
Keep in mind that the list(s) below are shown to give an "ideal build" were ever possible. It is possible to limit the extent of some items/work and achieve satisfactory results depending on expectations or results desired.
First of all, the truck MUST have some basic instrumentation. The purpose of which, is to give you an original set of baseline readings, as well as prevent serious consequences such as piston/head damage or runaway.
These readings would be used to determine the effectiveness and/or impact of any changes made to the truck. Also it is advised that you keep track of the particular readings for reference sake.
Any testing should be done, if possible, under the same conditions as all original tests. For example, ambient temperature, humidity, fuel w/wo additives, stretch(s) of roads, weight load, etc.
It is fairly easy to develope a spreadsheet for tracking these items/results.
That being said, here is what may be considered the first step in the process...
"Stage 1"
1) Instrumentation must include:
>Pyrometer: For measuring exhaust gas temperatures (EGT's) This should be mounted pre-turbo for most effective/accurate readings. Since the shutdown temperature(s) are as important as operating temperatures, it would be ideal to have a second pyrometer mounted "Post-Turbo" as well. In real life however this may be seen as excessive and care should be taken to assure that the engine is shutdown only after EGT's have fallen well below 300*F with a "Pre-Turbo" pyro mount.
>Tachometer: For properly measuring/utilizing engine torque and HP ranges. As performance is increased the engine RPM range tends to increase as well. Often times, injection pump adjustments alone can cause idle RPM changes. A tachometer is need to recognize and make adjustments as the "build" proceeds.
>Boost Guage: For tracking the boost pressures of the turbo charger. Very high boost levels are not a necessity in a good "build". Your boost levels should only be sufficient to allow for full burning of the fuel charge. In some cases the boost levels can reach a point were they actually become a detriment to engine performance and longevity. The turbo component must be configured to match the fueling levels, RPM and operating range desired.
>Transmission temp guage:This is used if the truck is equiped with an automatic transmission stock or otherwise. Since trans. temps can be CRITICAL to a transmission's lifespan it is a necessary instrument. In addition to the normal servicing of the transmission, in the case of the Getrag 5spd, it should be overfilled by roughly 1 quart. This will help extend the life of the transmission and prevent any of the internal bearings from going unlubricated when operated at steep angles or heavy acceleration.
** Availability: The availability of the above mentioned guages as well as others not mentioned is fairly good. If the particular guage/mount you want is not in stock it can be ordered in a fairly short time. It is recommended that you speak with a shop that specializes in diesel performance, in order to assure some measure of confidence in recieving the correct instrumentation the first time. There are some well known names in this field and should present no problem in finding the appropriate gauges to suit your needs.
2) Replacement of the existing OEM air filter: By using an aftermarket, high flow filter and opening up airbox/use of aftermarket airbox you will permit the maximum amount of airflow, properly filtered, to reach the turbo charger.
There are a number of options in this
** Availability: There are a number of options in this field. Some of the more well known examples are the AFE, K&N, BHAF (big honkin air filter).
>Replacement of Exhaust System: For the purpose of removing the crushed and restrictive sections of the OEM exhaust. The diesel engine does not want any restriction in this system, unlike the gas engine which can utilize back pressure.
Currently there are 3", 3 1/2", and 4" systems available with some being custom made for particular truck(s).
** Availability: While the 3" and 3 1/2" mandrel bent systems are fairly common to the bigger name performance diesel shops there are some smaller companies who have excellent, well priced products. Do your research first. In the area of 4" exhaust from the turbo back there is very little available in the form of "Kits". You can have a "one of" bent for your truck. They are a snug fit on the 1st Gens, particularly on the 4X4 models.
One shop in BC has taken a chance and are building 4" systems to suit each truck from the turbo back, to try and help the 1st Gen owners out.
>Turbo Exhaust Housing: The best method of improving throttle response and boost pressure is ususally achieved by changing the exhaust housing size. These housings ranged from 21cm to 18. 5cm with the latter being the smallest OEM on a factory 1st Gen truck. The replacement can be a 16cm, 14cm, or 12cm. Generally the 14cm and the 12cm are a wastegated housing which allows excess boost to be vented, preventing overboost/high drive pressures due to the smaller housing sizes.
The 16cm is a straight bolt on change. When going to the smaller housings such as the 14cm or 12cm, it may be necessary to shorten the downpipe just back from it's connection to the turbo.
** Availability: The only exhaust housing that could be called a bit scarce is the Non-Wastegated 14cm housing. They are a little more difficult to come by and often takes some time to order in. As for the other options they are generally easily available. **NOTE** as you go DOWN in housing size, you should achieve "roughly" 2-3 psi more boost over the previous housing, assuming no other changes.
>Modest adjustments of the injection pump. These are generally the "free" power enhancements that are fairly easy to make. They should be done in a methodical manner to assure the desired results. Generally they can all be done by the owner with a few simple hand tools and a small amount of time.
>Pressure test the intercooler to confirm no leaks. Currently the original OEM intercooler is no longer being produced as a "new" item. DC has discontinued them because 10 years is the amount of time that parts must be made available under law. Currently the best you can do is to have an existing intercooler rebuilt (similar to a radiator rebuild) or, purchase an aftermarket intercooler.
>Other less obvious items: This would include removing and "porting/polishing things such as the "intake horn on the intake manifold, the exhaust manifold ports, modest porting/polishing of the inlet side of the turbo exhaust housing (care needs to be used here so as to avoid reducing "velocity" into the housing "snail"), internal polishing of the elbow were it exits the compressor side of the turbo and so on. Remember, smooth surfaces facilitate air flow. Again, these appear to be minor items on the surface, however, cumulatively they can make a difference, whether it is improving airflow in or out, the ability to increase fueling, reduce temperatures etc.
** This should result in approximately 30-40 HP increase over stock systems. In addition, if properly done you could reasonably expect to see some improvement in mileage and performance with little impact on drivetrain longevity.
Bob
Continued:
