2004 Injectors

[Piper-6]

I am buying a 2004 auto with 200K miles. The PO says it needs injectors and is willing to cut the price so that the buy (probably me) can pay for the new injectors.



What is the cost of these new injectors and their installation?



At lease a ball park guess will do.



Thanks

 

[hsmith]

If you do the replacement yourself and do all six, I'm thinking around $3K or maybe a tad less.

 

[BDaugherty]

I bought my 2003 with 254K for cheap because it needed injectors. I bought new Bosch Motorsports 50hp injectors from Scheid Diesel for around $2400 or so... it's been awhile and I can't remember the exact price. I put them in myself and adjusted the valves in about half a day and it was my first time with 3rd gen injectors. If I had it to do again, I would still buy the new ones from Bosch, but I would buy stock nozzles.
I haven't priced everything out, but I would think that you could pay a diesel shop to put new stock injectors in for around $3000-$3500. You could do remans for less. The main thing is you want to take purchase price and repair price and add them together. Then make sure that what you are getting will be worth the total of the two. For example, I paid $11K for my '03 HO 6spd 4x4 crew cab sport with clean interior, new tires, ball joints, wheel bearings, and clutch. Then I put $2500 into the injectors. So it took me $13500 to get a good running truck with 254,000 miles. Of course I have put much more into it since then, but other than brakes on all 4 corners and rear Ujoints, it has all been goodies like front hitch, TST, Air Dog, tool box, etc.

 

[BDaugherty]

I bought my 2003 with 254K for cheap because it needed injectors. I bought new Bosch Motorsports 50hp injectors from Scheid Diesel for around $2400 or so... it's been awhile and I can't remember the exact price. I put them in myself and adjusted the valves in about half a day and it was my first time with 3rd gen injectors. If I had it to do again, I would still buy the new ones from Bosch, but I would buy stock nozzles.

I haven't priced everything out, but I would think that you could pay a diesel shop to put new stock injectors in for around $3000-$3500. You could do remans for less. The main thing is you want to take purchase price and repair price and add them together. Then make sure that what you are getting will be worth the total of the two. For example, I paid $11K for my '03 HO 6spd 4x4 crew cab sport with clean interior, new tires, ball joints, wheel bearings, and clutch. Then I put $2500 into the injectors. So it took me $13500 to get a good running truck with 254,000 miles. Of course I have put much more into it since then, but other than brakes on all 4 corners and rear Ujoints, it has all been goodies like front hitch, TST, Air Dog, tool box, etc.

 

[Bob4x4]

why would you have chosen stock??

 

[BDaugherty]

why would you have chosen stock??

I think I'm over-fueled for my stock airflow and I really can't justify spending the money to upgrade the turbo. Also, I think I would get a little better mileage from a timing box and stock nozzles compared to what I get now.
I will say that when I first bought my truck with worn out injectors it was anemic to the point of comparison with a GM 6. 2. Adding the new performance injectors was beyond night and day difference across the board. The power was how it should have come from the factory, it was much smoother, and it would start below 60 degrees without being plugged in.
I've been considering a Smarty Jr, but I'm worried about being able to use it without EGT or turbo speed problems.

 

[Piper-6]

This one is a 04 with 200K on it. The PO wants $13K for and CC, auto, 4x4. All options but not many after market.



I can use the work shop (after hours) to change the injectors myself.



If I go for doing them myself how much time do I need and where can I get a guide for the install.



What is the deal if I don't change them but run the truck for a few thoussand more miles. Will I damage the engine or is it just a case of low power?

 

[BDaugherty]

What are the symptoms that are making the owner say it needs injectors? Mine had so much wear in the injectors that they were bypassing to the point where my truck wouldn't build rail pressure during cranking if the engine wasn't warm.
If it's a clean good condition truck with all the bells and whistles that doesn't need any other work, then that price isn't out of line.
Most anyone with enough mechanical skill to change injectors should be able to do it in half a day or so. It took me about half a day the first time through and I also adjusted the valves and made my own custom injector puller. You really don't need any of the special tools except for a torque wrench. Here is a writeup from DDP that is pretty complete. It's one of those jobs where once you do it once, you can breeze through it the next time.
http://www.dynomitediesel.com/content/Documents/Common Rail Injector Instructions_1.pdf

 

[hsmith]

The few times I have done the install on a C/R I have also changed the tubes. Makes each one about $50 more as I recall.

 

[Piper-6]

PO says it runs rough. He replaced the injector pump. My question is will it be ok to wait a few thousand miles so I can get the truck home or is this something that can cause further damage?

 

[Bob4x4]

The few times I have done the install on a C/R I have also changed the tubes. Makes each one about $50 more as I recall.

That is not needed unless they are damaged

 

[Piper-6]

The PO says that one of the injectors is stuck shut and the idle surges as the other injectors try to compensate.



That pretty much answers my question, if I buy this truck I have to change the injectors before I can do anything with the truck.

 

[Bob4x4]

So it has a code or is he assuming or does it really have a bad hole and not an injector issue.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I'd be afraid that it needs a CP3 or has busted rings or some other catastrophic problem.

 

[Piper-6]

Would the possibility of busted rings show up by burning a lot of oil and smoking? How about a compression test. If the rings are busted it should show up when it is running.

I believe the PO got a code for the injectors but I don't know what it is.

 

[TCDiesel]

The general Rule that I share with anyone who ask Me what I think when Buying used/Pre-owned, the Majority of the Time you are BUYING someone else's Problems, As of late 1 buyer who I will call Will, purchased 2006 with 145K,I mentioned to take into account buying used, He ignored the Warning and Purchased the Truck $22K, 1st the trans, then the CP3 started to leak,then the front hubs started to grind,the BJs were shot along with the Front axle DS and Axle joints, now it won't start when -0 temps without either, he just call this morning and the truck was plug in and still would NOT start W/O either, so Now it needs Injectors. last time the truck was here I heard some Pinion noise at Decel,I don't have the heart to mention it to him at this time ugh.



Have an expert look the truck over form Bumper to bumper or thoroughly inspect every Joint, fluids, coolant,suspension parts,brakes, rotors, the rear inboards Rotors to see if they are hanging Up, listen for any type of noise related to DL or bearings, check the brake fluid with tester for moisture, crawl under and check for signs of any leaks, check the tires for signs of unusual wear, check the climate controls so they ALL operate correctly,check ALL controls, and manually go through all gears (AT) if its MT listen for any gear noise, if 4x4 engage and check.

 

[Bob4x4]

The general Rule that I share with anyone who ask Me what I think when Buying used/Pre-owned, the Majority of the Time you are BUYING someone else's Problems, As of late 1 buyer who I will call Will, purchased 2006 with 145K,I mentioned to take into account buying used, He ignored the Warning and Purchased the Truck $22K, 1st the trans, then the CP3 started to leak,then the front hubs started to grind,the BJs were shot along with the Front axle DS and Axle joints, now it won't start when -0 temps without either, he just call this morning and the truck was plug in and still would NOT start W/O either, so Now it needs Injectors. last time the truck was here I heard some Pinion noise at Decel,I don't have the heart to mention it to him at this time ugh.

Have an expert look the truck over form Bumper to bumper or thoroughly inspect every Joint, fluids, coolant,suspension parts,brakes, rotors, the rear inboards Rotors to see if they are hanging Up, listen for any type of noise related to DL or bearings, check the brake fluid with tester for moisture, crawl under and check for signs of any leaks, check the tires for signs of unusual wear, check the climate controls so they ALL operate correctly,check ALL controls, and manually go through all gears (AT) if its MT listen for any gear noise, if 4x4 engage and check.

Well said.

 

[Piper-6]

Buying anything used is always a risk. However even new isn't perfect but does have a warranty, of course you have to be able to afford the cost of new. I can't.

Thanks to TDR to show me where most of the pitfalls are and how to negotiate them. I don't mind the cose of modification and repair as long as I end up with what I want. That is a good reliable truck.

 

[Bob4x4]

Buying anything used is always a risk. However even new isn't perfect but does have a warranty, of course you have to be able to afford the cost of new. I can't.
Thanks to TDR to show me where most of the pitfalls are and how to negotiate them. I don't mind the cose of modification and repair as long as I end up with what I want. That is a good reliable truck.

Not to be rude but any truck with 200k is going to need things on a regular basis.

 

[Piper-6]

Bob4x4



I see your point. For another 10K I can go to an much newer truck with much lower mileage. Maybe worth the up front cost.