2004 quad cab, windows only work on drivers door switch

[Motorhead]

I have a friends '04 quad that the only switches that work all other windows is on the drivers door. All other door switches won't work the windows. I searched and found a thread but a software problem the site has had won't connect me to it. Is the master switch bad?

 

[seafish]

It could be the master lockout switch OR it could be broken wires in the door jambs OR it could be a single broken wire to the master lock-out switch,



I would remove and clean the master panel switches on the door and use contact cleaner and compresdsed air to clean it very well. If that does not work, I would ALSO check each of the wires in the rubber loom that runs between each door and jamb... the wires does NOT have to look broken to be bad, it can also be broken INSIDE of the insualtion... if you don't SEE any broken wires, you MUST also feel along the entire length of each wire in each door harness to find the brittle/hard spot that indicates a wire that is fatigued and broken inside of the insulation. The rubber loom and harness disconnects from the jamb side of each door panel.

 

[Wayne M.]

Usually when the wires break, nothing works. Power windows are a tricky circuit to diagnose. My vote is a switch not wiring. IIRC, the master has basically completes the ground path for the 3 other windows.

 

[MarkEkberg]

I just went through this. Started out as drivers controls worked, but no other window did. Replaced the master switch (PO told me it was bad) and everything was fine for a while, then the control module in the drivers column went bad. Had to hot wire it.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

When mine had that problem, it was the switch assembly/module on the driver's door. I also showed how to bypass the switch in the magazine, but I don't remember which issue. I ended up just buying a new switch assembly.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Autozone has the cheapest price unless you want to hunt for one. $104.

I went to a few local wrecking yards and there were no crew cab trucks at all. Of any manufacturer.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Issues 66, 69.

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks guys, I have a starting point now. Chris

 

[Motorhead]

Pulled the switch and tried to take it apart... . Is there a secret password??? I took all of the screws out and released all of the little snap tabs and it will not separate! I banged it a little bit and fast cycled the lock switch, hooked it back up and the rear door windows worked. I ordered a replacement switch but I still want to have a look see inside. So tell me how to separate the switch. I saw a soldered tab on an opening. Does that need to be de-soldered?

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I also have a bad one, same problem. You are welcome to it but I suggest going online and finding a dealer who will give you a good price on a new one, 56049805AB driver door module is the info for my 2004; probably the same for your year.

 

[MarkEkberg]

You have to pry all the switch buttons off before you try to take apart. I learned this after i destroyed mine. So the four window buttons and maybe the mirror one but not sure. It makes sense after you get it apart, and after you have wrecked it.

 

[RDeFayette]

Same problem I had.

Fixed the switch 3 times.

Doesn't help when it rains and the window is cracked open water drips right into it!

Finally just got a new switch.

77. 50 on ebay + free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2002-20...00&hash=item4d0869fc33&vxp=mtr#ht_4266wt_1275

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks guys. I am going to replace it today. I like to see how things work and see if I can make a better "Mousetrap"

 

[Prairie Dog]

I have a background in electronics so I took mine apart when it failed - the problem with them is cold solder joints. If you take the assembly apart and are good at soldering you can rework the joints and fix it once and for all. Keep in mind that the old solder will need to be removed.
Blowing air into them or dousing them with contact cleaner is a short term fix because a form of corrosion (dendrite) grows in these "cold" joints and will keep coming back.
Also, because of the design of the little plastic switch covers and the way the body is built, you could leave a garden hose running on top of the switches and it would just flow around them. It's really a good design but the flow-solder quality stinks - probably because of poor cleaning.

Here are some pics of what cold solder joints look like - notice the tell-tale cracks: https://www.google.com/search?q=col...GO-qdiAKp0IDABg&ved=0CDYQsAQ&biw=1092&bih=533

Good luck,
Scott

 

[Motorhead]

PD, I have fixed many a circuit board by repairing cold solder joints. I'll save the switch and take it apart and see. Thanks for that tip!

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

That one isn't Mopar and I don't know if it will be as good. Amazon has the mopar:

http://www.amazon.com/DURANGO-DAKOT...56049805ab+window+mirror+controls+driver+side

for 95 including shiipping. An internet search will find other sellers.

 

[Prairie Dog]

PD, I have fixed many a circuit board by repairing cold solder joints. I'll save the switch and take it apart and see. Thanks for that tip!

You bet.
The worst part is getting the little switch caps off. They're really stiff and like to launch themselves across the garage!

 

[Motorhead]

That one isn't Mopar and I don't know if it will be as good. Amazon has the mopar:
http://www.amazon.com/DURANGO-DAKOT...56049805ab+window+mirror+controls+driver+side
for 95 including shiipping. An internet search will find other sellers.

Thanks Joe, I saw that AFTER I spent $112 for a Chinese one at Auto Zone. I might buy a backup one from Amazon for my truck.