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2007 In Dash Factory Exhaust Brake Switch

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OK, I got the switch I ordered today from the dealer. Despite my rather brash comment about making it work, I'm finding it much more difficult than I first thought. It appears all portions of the switch are controlled by the ECM and are contained on a printed circuitboard so just modifying it to work with the Jake stalk wiring won't work. I haven't given up totally yet, it's just more complicated than I thought. If I'm successful, I'll add to this thread.



Dan
 
Don't give up, my switch is back-ordered and I don't think I can live with the ugly switch that comes with the Jacobs brake. Can you post a picture of the back side of the switch I can't picture in my mind not having some kind of pins for wiring
 
I have the new switch dismantled so can't give you a photo right now. Artie posted a diagram which represents the connection at the rear of it.

There are 6 pins inside a recessed area that serves as connection for the wiring harness. Since I don't have a harness, I've trimmed off the plastic allowing me better access to the pins. I'm going to wire pigtails to the pins for connection to my brake wiring. Because the switch is a momentary contact, not on/off, I am building a relay that will be actuated by the switch. The relay must also activate the indicator lamp. If my calculations are correct, the switch will appear to function like the "07. 5. A far simpler solution would have been to install a dpdt rocker switch in the panel with an indicator LED but I bought the switch and bezel and am determined to make it work. I think I'm about halfway there although my electronics skills are limited.



Dan
 
I've been following this thread, and have been wanting to put the exhaust brake switch in the dash as well. I hope someone can figure out a way to make this work.



From what I've gathered, the new '07 switch is not an "on-off" type switch. Would it be possible to get a switch for the heated seats (which seem like they should be on-off type) and use the face of the switch for the exhaust brake?
 
I'm not sure about swapping the switch faces. Even if it can be done, the switches would have to be totally dismantled since the face is actually the push button part. I haven't gotten into the panel in the truck to see what the seat heater switch is like.

Incidently, there is another related thread going about the Jake switch, that one because of rattling.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181496



TowPro has relocated the stalk switch so that's another alternative.



Dan
 
Ok, I said I'd come up with something, I did. I also said it was a lot more difficult than I expected, and it certainly was.



I found a relay toggle circuit design on the net which I modified slightly and built. I had to buy a few parts and used a bunch of stuff in my junk box to construct the unit. I bench tested it and tweaked it until it was working consistently, then coated it with epoxy to prevent shorts after installing. Just before installation, and after removing the various cup holders and other plastic parts to get to the panel, I tested it once more. It failed to operate this time. I apparently blew out the diode and would have to remanufacture it.



Since I am soon to leave on an extended trip, I elected to install the stalk switch into the bezel between the seat heater switches and skip the transistor toggle relay since I wasn't sure how reliable it would be and didn't want to fool with it while on the road.



Here is the circuit diagram I came up with. The relay I used was one I had from an earlier project and Radio Shack no longer carries it.





My advise to those considering this mod is... don't. Unless you're much more skilled than I, wait until someone comes out with a much simpler designed switch. Of course my electronics knowledge is limited and I'm certain there are others who could come up a better mousetrap.





Dan
 
I see that the diagram is a poor copy and may have errors in it. If anyone wants it, e-mail me and I'll send it.



After installing the stalk switch in the bezel, I was struck with how ugly it looked so I bought a DPDT rocker switch and a LED from Radio Shack and installed them today. When I tore into it previously, I found the screws at the bottom of the panel were missing so pulling it again was a snap.



The new switch is Radio shack #275-695 ($3. 99) and the LED is #276-084 ($1. 99). I tried to attach a picture but was unsuccessful.



Dan
 
Hi all. I just bought the switch and bezel. Does anyone have the part number for the wiring portion to install the switch? I have the factory installed brake installed now. Has anyone done this " at home " or should I buck up and take it to the dealer? Appreciate all the help. Thanks, WOODPKR







2006 2500 C/C,L/B,E/Z Edge,Air-raid, Autometer Lunar series,
 
Read all the entries in this thread and I think you'll find that it's not that easy. The wiring for the '06 and '07 with the 5. 9 is different than the 6. 7 which is what the switch is intended for. Apparently, so is the ECM. Someone said the dealer told them the wiring is part of the 6. 7 harness but isn't available separately. If you are successful with getting the dealer to install the '07 switch in your '06, please post how they did it. A coupe of members and I have been working on a method of using the '07 switch but no one so far has posted any real success. My efforts are shelved for a month or so while I'm on the road.



Dan
 
Just get a switch from your local electronics store and install it where you want.



I installed mine on my Cup Smoothie from Geno's.

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The kit to install the brake switch in 2007 6. 7 is now available. It is PN 82211189 and includes the switch, bezel, wiring overlay, splice kit, and instructions. It is $69 net and $99 retail. Remember this is for 6. 7 trucks, and with the addition of the wiring it still might not be easy to retrofit to 5. 9. I have not seen one yet so I can't offer any advice.
 
As y'all may have discovered, to make the OEM '07 style momentary contact pushbutton switch work on '06 and '07 5. 9l trucks you must have an electronic latching circuit to keep the circuit active during e-brake operation. The switch must keep ECM pin B39 grounded to enable the e-brake. I built a couple of latching circuits using a CD4013 IC and they work well, but member RDecker pointed out a better idea in another thread.



Pacific Accessory Corp. makes the TR-7 Universal Trigger Output Module which is a multi-function device which has a latching mode as one of its functions. It can be triggered by either a positive voltage or a momentary ground. It has a 12V 2A output and an output to ground. It comes in a small plastic case. Even though it has an output to ground, which should let you connect the wire to ECM pin B39 without using a relay, I was uncomfortable connecting any electronic device directly to my ECM, so I used the 12V output to operate a relay to switch B39 to ground.



I also found a convenient place to tap onto the instrument lighting dimmer circuit. There is a small multi-pin plug that attaches to the center panel next to the heat/AC switch plug. At one corner of that plug is an orange/grey wire which is the dimmer lighting circuit. You can check it with a voltmeter as you rotate your dimmer control.
 
Hey JimBob!



That really helped. I assume the "OEM Switch" in your diagram is referring to the 2007 model switch?



Thanks again for posting this! --Eric
 
Yes. . I was referring to the 2007 switch. In the schematic of the switch there is an internal resistor in the LED and switch circuits. I added an additional 2. 2K resistor in series with the LED input because when I tested the switch on the bench I thought the LED was too bright and assumed that the circuit might have been designed for a 5 volt computer voltage and I was using 12V. You might want to experiment with resistors in the 1K - 2K range before you hook everything up.



I also built another circuit which fits on a 1. 75" square circuit board that also works well if anyone wants to build it themselves. You can find everything at Radio Shack except the CD4013 IC which is a very common device that can be found at any electronics supply, like Jameco.com or Futurelec.com.
 
JimBob:

Did you resolve the issue of the unit switching on randomly when switching on? This is a problem with the 555 circuit also. The designer suggested an additional resistor/capacitor combo attached to pole 4 (the reset line) that would cause it to turn off each time ign. is turned on, regardless of position when shut down. I used a 5. 7K resistor on the LED since that's what it took to reduce voltage below 5V. I haven't installed it yet. It's still on the bench.



Dan
 
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Hello Dan. The circuit I posted using the CD4013 powers up in the "off" state each time. It seems to be very stable and has worked well so far. I tried some 555 circuits but they did not seem as stable. The 555 circuit in the following attachment discusses the power-on state of that circuit. Maybe you can get it to work better than I did.



The PAC TR-7 I mentioned previously has a latch circuit built in and is very easy to interface with the '07 factory switch. You can find them under $20. I have had one in my truck a couple of weeks now and it has worked flawlessly so far. The CD4013 was also working great when I swapped it out so I am keeping it for a spare if the PAC doesn't work out.
 
JimBob24,



Would you be interested in offering a kit for us electronic dummies to do this? I would really like to get rid of the Jake stalk switch on my 06 auto.



Thanks!

Pat
 
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