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2014 3500 SRW Unloaded Rear Tire Pressures

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I just picked up my new 2014 SRW 3500. Unlike the 2012 I traded in, this truck doesn't show unloaded tire pressures on the door placard. It shows 60 psi front and 80 psi rear for the 275/70-18 tires. The ride is very firm. Since I normally run the truck unloaded, I'm trying to find some recommended tire pressures for the rear. My 2012 had different sized tires - and if I recall, it recommended 45 psi unloaded.

What is everyone else running?

Thanks -

Greg
 
I run 72 front 45 rear empty with 98 2500 4x4 and 80 front 45 rear on 3500 dually. I would try 70 front and 45 rear. 60 front will result in wearing the edges off.
 
Greg,

Here are the tire pressures vs. load limits (per tire) for your LT275/70R-18E tires from www.rambodybuilders.com.

35 psi = 2070 lbs
45 psi = 2470 lbs
55 psi = 2840 lbs
65 psi = 3195 lbs
75 psi = 3530 lbs
80 psi = 3640 lbs

If you can get the weight of each axle on your truck, then using the above data you'll know exactly what pressure to set the tire pressures.

Best regards,

John L.
 

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That's an ungodly amount of air pressure to be running in front tires with the truck empty. How can you stand to drive it? I've got a '94 2500HD 8800-lb GVW 4x4 regular cab and it beats me to death at 60 psi in the fronts.You must have some smooth roads, because the backroads around here would throw me in the ditch at those pressures just from the washboards. Unloaded I typically run 45-50 front and rear empty and get 25,000+ miles out my tires. I had a set of Yokohama Geolanders go over 30,000 with zero flats and they were worn just as evenly as can be. And that's on a pickup that death wobbles like crazy at 80-85 mph.
 
That's an ungodly amount of air pressure to be running in front tires with the truck empty. How can you stand to drive it? I've got a '94 2500HD 8800-lb GVW 4x4 regular cab and it beats me to death at 60 psi in the fronts.You must have some smooth roads, because the backroads around here would throw me in the ditch at those pressures just from the washboards. Unloaded I typically run 45-50 front and rear empty and get 25,000+ miles out my tires. I had a set of Yokohama Geolanders go over 30,000 with zero flats and they were worn just as evenly as can be. And that's on a pickup that death wobbles like crazy at 80-85 mph.

Your low front tire pressures are exactly why you get such poor mileage with your tires. Running 72 front and 45 rear on my 98 4x4 2500 with Michelins I would easily get 120K from a set. The rear tire high pressure is what gives the poor ride.
 
Poor mileage? That's on backroads a lot of the time and driven 60+ miles per day, year-round. My tires last a year. More pressure = shorter tire life most of the time out in the sticks. Especially if it's a RADIAL you're running at excessive pressure with no load like that. Anywhere they use crushed limestone quarry rock on the roads you're doing great to get to 20,000. 120,000 miles? Only if you're running semi tires and never leave the highway. And how is 45 psi in the rears "low" in my truck but not yours? When it's the front end with coils riding as rough as my '92 W250 did on leaf springs, I'm pretty sure it's not the rear tires causing it. As long as I can average 18 mpg with that '94 with an auto trans and 4.10 gears and a lot of stop and go driving and idling, I don't think my tire pressure is too low. I haven't seen the place where you can set your tires to 72 psi one day and check them 2 days later and have them still be at exactly 72 psi. Or set them at 72 psi, drive the truck 50 miles and have them at 72 psi. Which is why I don't get carried away dialing my pressures to a gnat's @ss. If it's 65 degrees in the morning and 95 degrees in the afternoon or 35 when you come home at night and 0 the next morning how can you run a constant pressure? You can't. Even nitrogen inflation can't keep it steady at those kind of pressure swings.
 
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45-50 psi on a '94 2500HD 4x4. 8800-lb GVW. Which was the "stand-in" 1-ton back in those days when they didn't build a 3500 SRW. I get pretty decent fuel mileage running around empty all the time - 17-18 mpg average. That's with a slightly warmed over '92/'94 "Hybrid Cummins", auto and 4.10s. It gets a lot of cold starts, idling 5-10 minutes at a time a few times per day and a fair amount of stop and go around town. And let's just say that I'm not shy about keeping the governor limbered up. My "commuting" is pretty well evenly split between 30 miles of highway and 30 miles of backroads every day. I put around 25,000 miles per year on it and I put a new set of tires on it every year. I don't have flats, I don't rotate them as often as I should and the truck hasn't been aligned in the 3 years I've owned it. I just put a set of 275/85R16 Yokohama Geolanders on it and put balance beads in them. We've got a tire machine at work and most of us are buying our tires online and mounting them ourselves. I remember putting tires on my first pickup for under $400. Now it's $1200? To hell with that.
 
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45-50 psi on a '94 2500HD 4x4. 8800-lb GVW. Which was the "stand-in" 1-ton back in those days when they didn't build a 3500 SRW.


All the 3/4 ton Cummins powered Dodge pickups were built with 1-ton components (HD's), from the 1st gen all the way to 2012. The 13/14 2500's started to be built a little less robust than the 1-ton's. From '89 to '12 the difference between a 3/4 ton and a 1-ton (non dually)was only a slight gvw/rear spring upgrade going to the 1-ton.

Nick
 
Great info - thanks guys. I think I would like to run 60 in the fronts since that is what is on the door placard. I don't have an easy way to get the actual axle weights, so I'm really going to have to just go by trial and error. Yesterday, I set them to 60/50. That seems much better, but the contact patch on the rears looks much smaller than on the fronts still. With the tires at 80 yesterday, the outer inch or so of tread on each side wasn't even on the ground! I can't imagine how bad that would have been on a wet road. So, right now I think that 50 is a little high still, so I'm going to go with 45 and see what happens. I don't think I want to go much lower than that in the rears.

Thanks again everyone!

Greg
 
Just curious if the tire pressure monitors are dinging due to the lower tire pressure. Seems I read a complaint on that but I believe the trucks were dualies. I was curious about this as well since the cold pressure is indicated for the fronts but not the rears on my sticker. Dropped down from 80 front and rear to 70 front and 65 rear and no ding so I may try going lower. The ride improved but I bounced down a country road to attend a Dave Stamey concert last night and want to go lower if possible.

Mike
 
I haven't had them ding yet. I was reading some of the other threads on this issue and it sounds like the 2500's system is maybe different than the 3500? It seems like the 2500 guys are having trouble with the warnings going off when the tire pressure is set too low but I think I've read that the 3500's system just tells you what the pressure is.

It seems like the correct solution would be for Ram to publish unloaded tire pressures for these trucks. I understand that they want to have tire pressures published for fully loaded conditions, but I personally think that 80 psi in the rears on an empty truck when its wet out is a dangerous situation.
 
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That's incorrect. And in the interest of trying to avoid a flame war and an onslaught of "experts" rushing in to attack the "outsider" (me), I'll THOROUGHLY EXPLAIN why. So if long posts or facts aren't your thing, just stop reading now. Don't read the whole post and then blame ME for wasting YOUR time. There were two different GVWs for 3/4 tons. Maybe there still are. I'm not concerned with new pickups and I said nothing about them to start with. The GVWR difference is hardly "slight". I BELIEVE (I don't have my manual with me) that in 1994 it as 1200 lbs. I MIGHT be wrong. But I KNOW the difference is substantial when you're talking about less than 9000 lbs in either case. Which can translate to 4000 to 8000 lbs difference in total vehicle weight when towing. Once again, I don't have an operators manual handy but I know it's a major increase in GVW capacity. And when you put the same load behind a LD truck and an HD truck, especially on TRAILER, that "slight difference" becomes obvious and significant.

And the differences didn't stop there. My '94 is a TRUE 2500HD and says so on the door tag. It also says so when the VIN is actually SEARCHED instead of just being put into one of those "decoders". Even though the experts claim there was no "2500HD" for another however many years when it started showing up ON A PIECE OF PLASTIC, they were actually around from DAY ONE in the 2nd Gens. However many years? I don't KNOW when the "HD" came out? No, I don't know when they started making a different PLASTIC TRIM PIECE with "2500HD" on it, to put on trucks so people who don't know where to look for the REAL information can easily find it. And even the 1st Gens had MAJOR differences between the two GVWRs. Of course, the GVWR is EVERYTHING in a cargo vehicle. You know, if you consider things like GVWR, load capacity, load rating, total vehicle weight rating and such IMPORTANT in a a vehicle built to carry load instead of passengers. My truck also has the 48RH transmission BUILD CODE. 47RH, 47RE, 48RE etc are not transmission MODELS.

They are specs a 4-spd/OD transmission from Dodge 518/618 transmission FAMILY is BUILT TO. And even WITHIN a CODE, there can be internal part variations. Which is why factory manuals tell you to reference the transmission PART NUMBER. I've done so, and my pickup has the transmission "model" the "experts" claim Dodge never built. Except it's just a CODE with two number and two letters the factory used so the guys on the line got the right "parts" in the right truck according to the VIN and GVWR. It ALSO has the NV241HD transfer case none of the "expert sources" mention being in those trucks. They mention the NV241DLD, but not the NV241HD. What's the difference? NV241HDs are built for a PTO option. I wonder if the "DLD" on the STANDARD transfer case stands for "Dodge Light Duty"? Hmmm. Another one of those "minor differences". And my truck has 4.10 gears. You could NOT get the HD GVWR with anything BUT 4.10s. You can have a 2500 "LD" with 4.10s, but not a 2500HD with 3.54s. I know this. It's in the owners manual. I use FACTORY information and I want to LEARN about these trucks, not just repeat what the online "experts" say as they pursue their dream of acquiring "guru" status.

If you care to do some actual research, you can learn ALL of these things for yourself and when you're done you'll know FAR more than any of the "experts" who just recited whatever they see online. That's not me. I'm a professional diesel technician, lifelong gearhead, lifelong 4x4 pickup freak, and I've been around dozens of Dodge Cummins trucks over the years. I've worked on a lot of them. Not doing the "cool" stuff like bolting on this part or that part or the "high tech" stuff like plugging in a "tuner". I'm talking about real nuts and bolts repairs where those "slight differences" are of major importance. These days if you call Cummins for Dodge Cummins parts they USED to ask you for the CPL. Now they want the engine serial number. Apparently those slight differences matter. You can have two "identical" engines with different power ratings.

I can still remember the first Dodge Cummins I DROVE and being in a full leg brace knee dislocation when I did it. Believe me, when you're 6'3" and 235 and can't bend your left leg at all, it is a CHALLENGE getting in a 1990 Dodge W250 and going for a spin. I did it because I "had to". That's just how I was then and now I'm mostly the same except old age and lots of experience with being told I don't know what I'm talking about by people who don't or can't do what I do has made me a "prick". Oh well. It was a PITA and it was just a quick drive around a motel parking lot where my Grandparents were staying, but I still remember it. Mainly because it was late January and WAY TOO COLD for any diesel pickup of THAT time period to start in without at least being plugged in. It probably got down to 10 degrees that night. We're talking back in the 6.2/7.3 days here. Remember THOSE? I do. But that Dodge started. I was hooked. I still remember where I was when I saw the Cummins Dodge I ever SAW, too. Weigh-in for my 4-H calves. That Cummins just sat there and rattled and rattled for hours. So I've been around these trucks and I know them pretty well.

Mostly in a farm/ranch/commercial environment where trucks get USED and hardly EVER get their pictures taken to be posted online. My Grandpa still has the '90 Dodge W250 Cummins (my"first time" truck) he bought new and the '98 Dodge 2500HD 4x4 extended cab he bought new. They've never left the farm and probably never will. And they've never been in TDR, either. I might have to change that. Show some folks how the "other side" lives, lol. In my "circle" of immediate family and close friends, there a couple dozen of these trucks ranging from that 1990 to a 2013. I know the trucks because I'm passionate about them as a WHOLE, not just about mine. And because I'm a professional diesel technician, I know that there ARE no generalities you can apply across the board like you just did. It's one thing to study machines as a hobby or there again be interested on a personal level because you own ONE or TWO where you don't have to worry about anything else but YOURS.

It's another thing to have to work on machinery and deal with all the variables and inconsistencies that come along with two "identical" machines being VERY different one you get past a nameplate or model designation or brand name or production run. But I NEVER call myself an "expert" because "experts" refuse to be wrong. I KNOW I'm wrong. A lot. Which is why I KEEP learning. And why I DON'T just walk away when someone disagrees with me when I'm right. Especially when they say something intentionally vague and ambiguous like "there is no difference EXCEPT". That is a difference. And its enough of a difference to BE the difference between getting the RIGHT part and the WRONG part. Which is why OEMs use VIN and PIN numbers. Not meaningless designations like model numbers, model years, words on a piece of plastic trim, etc. So be careful what you say and who you believe if you're REALLY interested in these trucks. NO ONE knows it all and every day "experts" in EVERY field all over the WORLD are having a real bad day when they find out they don't know it all. There's no shame in not knowing something.
 
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Ouch CJ!! I did not think I was attacking you, just a friendly debate. I don't have 94 service manual so I am probably in error. However when I compare my 8800# gvw '01 2500 6 spd Cummins powered Dodge against a '94 8800# gvw Cummins powered Dodge with an automatic, I find mine has larger axles front and rear, but it is not an HD. I apologize if I have offended you.

If you would like to start a new thread in the 2nd gen forum regarding this '94HD super truck that Ram built, I will be glad to continue this discussion.

Nick
 
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Hey Greg, as far as axil weights, not sure if WA does the same thing but here in OR, the weigh stations are powered on 24/7 even when they are not "open" and you can check weights anytime. I've used a check station on Hwy 26 many times to check my weights. I wouldn't bother them when they are open for business, they may dislike you being in line with the big rigs.

Paul
 
All the 3/4 ton Cummins powered Dodge pickups were built with 1-ton components (HD's), from the 1st gen all the way to 2012. The 13/14 2500's started to be built a little less robust than the 1-ton's. From '89 to '12 the difference between a 3/4 ton and a 1-ton (non dually)was only a slight gvw/rear spring upgrade going to the 1-ton.

Nick

Well maybe, to continue the thread high jack. In some years like my 2001.5 2500 the auto's have a Dana 70 rear diff and the manuals have a Dana 80 rear diff. All 3500 were duallies and had Dana 80's! The 2500 rear spring pack in those years, if the truck had the Camper Option, provided rear springs similar to the duallie. However the part number on the upper overload leaf had a part number that was different by one digit.

Also the NV241HD was optional on the 2500 and standard on the 3500 after 1998. http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/tranfer_case.htm

CJ's 94 is an one off truck. Dodge only built one spec'd that way!! Ha! Ha! Just don't go there!

Chris
 
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