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2017 oil leak

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^6.7 CGI oil question

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My 2017 with 130k has sprung an oil leak up front. Once die was added to oil it appears that it’s leaking between the timing gear case and block. Front seal is ok no issues. I have done research to update replace this gasket along with other items when I go in. The question I still need help with is the cam gear. I know I can remove it and leave the cam and valve train intact. But I need help or more info on re-installing the cam gear if I don’t pull the cam. It appears heat the gear and freeze the end of the cam to reinstall. Has anyone done this and is it even possible.
Thanks in advance.
 
Personally I would try a patch job. Thoroughly clean the area that is leaking and apply the RightStuff. I have done so with a leaking valve cover and has held for several years on my 350 boat engine.
 
I didn’t think you had to pull the cam gear to get the timing cover off. It’s a pretty quick fix. My 18 leaked there and the dealership had it done in 1/2 a day under warranty.
 
Wow. That would be awesome. Everything I have been able to see on-line for videos shows pulling the cam.

I didn’t think you had to pull the cam gear to get the timing cover off. It’s a pretty quick fix. My 18 leaked there and the dealership had it done in 1/2 a day under warranty.
 
Personally I would try a patch job. Thoroughly clean the area that is leaking and apply the RightStuff. I have done so with a leaking valve cover and has held for several years on my 350 boat engine.

I have considered this. I am at a minimum going to replace the front timing gear cover. I have a new aluminum one coming . I figured if I’m going that deep I might as well upgrade a few components as well as replace a few. Even if I pay someone to repair and replace parts it’s gotta be cheaper then replacing the whole truck. Which after all the suspension mods. (Thuren) and deletes I have done over the years I can’t replace it.
 
AllData says it has to come off....

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I don't know about the 6.7, but on my 5.9 it wasn't bad to pull the cam. I've heard horror stories of fellows breaking cam gears pulling them off, and then to put it back on, the pulley has to be put in an oven to heat it up and then put on quickly in the exact position before it cools down. I chose to pull the cam.

IMG_2294.jpg
 
AllData says it has to come off....

View attachment 136132

I don't know about the 6.7, but on my 5.9 it wasn't bad to pull the cam. I've heard horror stories of fellows breaking cam gears pulling them off, and then to put it back on, the pulley has to be put in an oven to heat it up and then put on quickly in the exact position before it cools down. I chose to pull the cam.

View attachment 136133

Thanks for your info. Yea if it’s not a straight forward process to remove and replace the cam gear I’m leaning towards cam removal. I see in your pic that you used the dowels method. Does that work well to hold the tapets when the cam is pulled and until replaced
 
Removing the front timing case and resealing it are two different tasks. You can reseal it without removing it, it’s an RTV seal and a 270° gasket.. or at least that’s what they did under warranty on my 2018. Nothing major had to come off, and certainly not pull the cam or cam gear, or even the radiator.
 
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Removing the front timing cover and resealing it are two different tasks. You can reseal it without removing it, it’s an RTV seal and a 270° gasket.. or at least that’s what they did under warranty on my 2018. Nothing major had to come off, and certainly not pull the cam or cam gear, or even the radiator.
Great info. Thank you
 
I didn’t think you had to pull the cam gear to get the timing cover off. It’s a pretty quick fix. My 18 leaked there and the dealership had it done in 1/2 a day under warranty.

The OP has a leak between the gear case and the block, not a cover leak.

Gear case block side:

#ad


Gear case cover side:

#ad
 
The OP has a leak between the gear case and the block, not a cover leak.

Gear case block side:

#ad


Gear case cover side:

#ad

So did I. Made my post more clear.

You can see in that photo that it’s a 270° gasket, so it won’t need the case to come off to replace the gasket.

I didn’t do the work, but I know how long it took them and I could see evidence of what was removed and what wasn’t, as well as where new RTV was coming out from behind the case.
 
So did I. Made my post more clear.

You can see in that photo that it’s a 270° gasket, so it won’t need the case to come off to replace the gasket.

I didn’t do the work, but I know how long it took them and I could see evidence of what was removed and what wasn’t, as well as where new RTV was coming out from behind the case.

Okay I see what you are getting at, just slide that gasket in behind the case. How do you get the stuck pieces off?
 
Yeah, I know it has the holes, but seems there's still at least one that you can get a wrench on to tighten it, but not enough room to get it out.
 
All good info guys. I appreciate all the input and pics. And discussion on gaskets and bolts behind the Cam gear. As soon as all my parts arrive I’ll start diving in. I am not going to rush it so if I encounter additional questions along the way I’ll see if anyone can help.

I plan to remove the air intake, washer fluid, inter cooler, radiator, fan. Lower the transmission cooler and swing the AC out and suspend it. Remove the upper radiator cross support and dive in.

Is there any tricks I need to know just removing everything in the way. It seams straight forward but I’m guessing there could be a speed bump somewhere.
 
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