Llama, since you have the 5-speed you have a few more options than someone else might.
First is a fuel pressure gauge, even if you do not get any other guages. This will let you monitor your lift pump and help keep the VP44 alive.
There's no real reason to move the LP. With better lines and fewer restrictions, it should last a long time. LP reliability is spotty, some trucks have NO problems, others have LP nightmares. You might want to consider the FASS if you want to relocate your pump that bad.
You also need a pyro and boost if you plan on turning it up at all. A fuel pressure guage is all you really need if you are not turning up the power.
Install your pyrometer probe BEFORe the turbo. This is a better indicator of EGT. I just moved mine from after the turbo to before, and I should have done it sooner.
Always use the Fleetguard oil filters only (or the MOpar). Other filters are poorer quality, and there have been instances of engine failure traced to the use of a FRAM filter-- it clogged the oil cooling jets. The mopar filters ARE fleetguard filters, just a lot more expensive.
Any good diesel oil will work. Delo 400 and Rotella T or probably the most well known. There are synthetics too, which aren't for everyone, but some people really like them. I do.
As for power, I would favor injectors over a box. Yes, they have the disdvantage of not being able to turn them off, but they're a LOT easier on things. Even though you have a standard-output engine, I would favor the injectors. The engine will be happier, and you will have lower EGT for a given amount of HP.
Don't make the mistake I did of going too small on injectors. I went with DD2s because I didn't realize how mild they were (except for the HP
). Personally, I would say some EDM Mach 3s from Formula 1 diesel are the main fuel mod you want.
You will need a boost folling device with a larger injector. Might as well get a fueling box of some kind. I would recommend the TST Powermax Competition. If you only connect the MAP sensor, it SHOULD act as a boost fooler, and then you will have a wicked fueling box later when you want more HP and can plunge on a turbo upgrade. This box taps the injection wire. All the big HP boxes do. It will void your warranty. Also, some early 24V trucks have been known to toast an expensive injection pump shortly after tapping the pump wire. Usually, those injection pumps were going to die soon anyway, so you probably should see what kind of shape your pump is in before you decide to go with a wire tap or non-wire tap box.
I am making recommendations that are beyond what would normally be considered "starter" mods because you WILL want more. Going bigger at first saves money. Build what you want the FIRST time.
If you think you can resist the urge to go get more HP, I would recommend you just get a simple black box that doesn't tap the injection pump and then get some Bosch RV275 injectors. That will put you right around 300hp, and will let you tow anything you want. Best off all the RV injectors and a mild box are a cheap combination. RVs can be had for $275, and a used box is pretty reasonable. You can stop there and be done (if you're superhuman).
If you're like the rest of us, you will be clamoring for more, and spending all the spare money on truck BOMBS.
Let me know if you have more questions. PM me (just hit the button below) if you want specific answers to specific questions.
Justin
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
thread. Thanks for your patient reply.
You ain't got no problem is you can bomb socially and quit anytime you want to. 
