Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 24V Questions (12V Owner)

[tschwab]

Hello all,



Seriously considering selling my 12V for a 24V and need some feedback/answers from those up-to speed on 24V's as I currently am not.



Here is what I am considering: - 2001. 5 or 2002 6Spd and HO motor - (I want the 4 wheel disc brakes).



Is there any advantage to having the non H/O motor & 5spd/6spd?



How much more HP/Torque does the HO put out over the non HO motor?



What rear end is best with the manual transmission?



I plan on leaving the truck stock, what are the tow ratings for the HO/manual - (Gross combined vehicle rating)?



Should I just hold out a couple more years and buy a used 2003 - whats the feedback from those who had a 2001 vs the new 2003?



Any comments/feedback welcome. And no I haven't come up with a price for my 12V yet, but will be doing so shortly if you know anyone who might be interested in a very clean, super low mileage (38K) 12V - original owner.



Thanks - Terry

 

[klenger]

Here are the weight charts for the 2001. I think the '02s are about the same.



If you are towing, the 6 speed is the way to go. If you are towing heavy, the 4. 10's are even better.



http://www.klenger.net/dodge/towing-charts.html

 

[WadePatton]

I love the 6 and run empty. The 5 is fine too, and a little easier to deal with when it comes to lubes and clutch replacement.



4. 10's gives a slightly higher tow capacity that's it.



If you're going to leave it pure stock (SHAME on you) and want the most power, you'd best look at the 03's. And that ugly interior and such. I don't like 'em, but they put down good dyno numbers. The SO and HO BOMB a bit differently, but if you're not BOMBing, get the HO of course.



YES, I would LOVE to buy your 12v, but I'm not "in the market" yet.

 

[RMarx]

SO=235hp @2700rpm, 460lb. ft @1400rpm

HO=245hp @2700rpm, 505lb. ft @1600rpm

 

[dan_gilson]

I have had both a 12V and a 24V. Both have/are 5 speeds. The 6 speed was not out yet otherwise I would have gotten it. The 12V and 24V have different personalities. The 24V has an extra 500+ RPM sweat spot in HP. It makes a big difference in shifting. The 24V likes to be run at a slightly higher RPM (more air flow).



The 6sp with a 4. 10 will give you the most options. On a 12V the 4. 10 will reduce you fuel milage. It would be nice if someone could run some tests about the difference between the 3. 54 and 4. 10 on a 24V. I know a couple of people have changed over. That would be the best test because of the same truck and driving style. I suspect that it will either be about the same or possibly even better. I have 3. 54's and it spins a little slow down the freeway at 65. At 75 it is better BUT you have a lot more wind resistance.



The 24V does not tend to soot up the oil as fast nor blow a lot of smoke as the 12 does. My oil on the 12V was black after the first 200 miles. I stay pretty golden for the first 2000 miles on the 24V. I am running stock (No HP bombs) and I get very minor smoke at full pump over 2500RPM's. The 12V will blow the really black stuff over 2200RPM's. (I kind of miss that when someone crawls up my tail pipe. )



I hope this helps.

 

[WadePatton]

Just BOMB it.

nevermind. Posted about bombing the old truck vs. buying another truck. Then looked at sig.

 

[slo-ryde]

I have the 3. 54 rear axle and love it. I test drove several trucks with the 4. 10 axle and it felt like there was a gear missing when out on the highway. I would only recommend the 4. 10 for constant heavy towing, sled pulling, or racing the GM & Ford crowd. The 3. 54 gives better fuel economy and the difference in towing capacity is only around 200 pounds, hardly worth it IMHO.



The fuel economy is surprising considering the extra horse power and torque. The HO will lay down some smoke if you nail it, other than that it's a clean running engine. I think the HO comes with a larger turbo.



The 6 speed doesn't shift as smoothly as the 5 speed but I've gotten used to it. It's supposed to much beefier than the 5 speed and way stronger than the automatic. It does require a special lubricant, the owners manual says it's supposed to last the life of the vehicle. I plan on changing mine at 30,000 miles. If it comes out clean I probably won't change it again. Keep in mind the 6 speed is the only option with the HO motor.



Visit the Dodge website to get tow ratings. The ratings change based on cab (standard, quadcab), 4x4 versus 2x2, motor, transmission, longbed versus shortbed, axle ratio.

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by dan_gilson

The 24V does not tend to soot up the oil as fast nor blow a lot of smoke as the 12 does. My oil on the 12V was black after the first 200 miles.

Dan-



Did you have alot of hard miles on it? Mine stays looking pretty clean (At least from looking at it on the dipstick. My 6. 9L is a different story though. ) 'til I change the oil at every 3-5k. I have plenty of miles on it. It is at this point, it is more or less stock.



I just get a little haze out the soot pipe. Do you have a man. transmission in that one? That could make a difference too.

 

[dan_gilson]

bmoeller, On the 24V, I am loaded pretty light most of the time. It is my daily driver. I have light foot until the need arises, then I will hammer it. Even when I have a couple of tons in it go from Bay area to Lake Tahoe, the oil does not tend to back up.



The oil on my 12V was black within 200 miles. It was the same setup. The 12V got broke in doing a lot of stop and go driving. That is really the only different that I can think of.

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by slo-ryde

The 3. 54 gives better fuel economy and the difference in towing capacity is only around 200 pounds, hardly worth it IMHO.

Actually, it's more like 1,500 lbs.



2002 GCWR (3500 ETH/DEE-3. 54) - 20,000 lbs



2002 GCWR (3500 ETH/DEE-4. 10) - 21,500 lbs



We tow a 13,500 lb 36' triple slide 5th wheel, so we needed the additional GCWR of the 4. 10's. Weighed on certified truck scales, we're at 21,180 GCW, and equipped as shown in my signature, this truck tows great. 70 MPH with the 4. 10's is 2350 RPM - right in the sweet spot for towing, but pretty busy-sounding if you're running empty.



Rusty

 

[slo-ryde]

Originally posted by RustyJC

Actually, it's more like 1,500 lbs.



2002 GCWR (3500 ETH/DEE-3. 54) - 20,000 lbs



2002 GCWR (3500 ETH/DEE-4. 10) - 21,500 lbs



We tow a 13,500 lb 36' triple slide 5th wheel, so we needed the additional GCWR of the 4. 10's. Weighed on certified truck scales, we're at 21,180 GCW, and equipped as shown in my signature, this truck tows great. 70 MPH with the 4. 10's is 2350 RPM - right in the sweet spot for towing, but pretty busy-sounding if you're running empty.



Rusty

Tschwab didn't let us know if he was looking at the 2500 or the 3500. The actual maximum tow rating for the 3500 2 wheel drive is 13200 with the 3. 55 axle, and 14700 with the 4. 10 axle. For the 2500 2 wheel drive the maximum tow rating is 13550 with either axle. I'd be running the 4. 10 axle too if I was pulling that much weight.

 

[PRout]

How many injection pumps are failing on the 12v?? Not many...



Not to mention how many 24v's are frying pumps by hooking up comp boxes, & neglecting to watch their fuel pressure. (oh i wasnt going to mention that)



IMO, I'd rather have the 12v. Its a more simple motor, and frankly dont care about revving my 24v 500 rpms higher. Mine never sees more than 2500 rpms anyways.



Also, not as many electronics to go wrong...



Just another opinion...

 

[dan_gilson]

That extra 500 RPM makes a really big difference on a 5 speed transmission. The 3rd to 4th change is pretty wide. It is also nicer being able to get more acceleration using 4th to get to 65MPH then slide it into 5th. I have spent a lot of time in both and my preference is 24V. For what it is worth.

 

[WadePatton]

Yes and no

I too, would GLADLY trade my VP-44 for a P7100!, but I would certainly HAVE to have the 3k GSK. Pop's truck will be getting one soon.