Here I am

2nd gen headlights again, really need something better (safety)

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

VP44 questions

'96 2500 6BT 47RE trouble

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thanks Scott...

Well I have a funny story here. It was not funny at all at the time. Yesterday I spent about 8 hours getting everything in place, building the wire harness and landing everything in the truck. The wife was waiting for me to finally come in for a late dinner with a not so patient look on her face. I tried to hurry up. Well this evening I turned everything on and was NOT impressed. It did not offer much over the projectors. I had two low beam dots on the garage door and high beams just lit up everything around those dots. I was bummed I just spent 400 plus bucks for not much of an improvement. I was standing there disgusted when I realized the low beam was coming from the inboard 9004 bulb. In my rush the night before I accidentally hooked up both plugs opposite of what they were supposed to be on each side. I swapped them and a great big grin spread across my face. The difference really stood out even before driving to the road. Was it worth it? Absolutely it was. I will show it with pictures.
I recommend buying the completed harness instead of the component kit and here is why. You won't need the special crimpers for the different terminals. I had them in the shop and on these terminals you can't and shouldn't try to improvise. They barely fit in their sockets and the wrong crimpers will wreck the terminals.
No soldering each terminal. It took me 8 hours with a lunch and coffee break. You have to supply your own wire. I only use marine tinned wire and I used 7 different colors for easy troubleshooting later. Try and buy 7 different color 25 foot rolls of tinned wire and keep the price down. You also won't need to supply your own ribbed wire loom. I used three sizes. So really Daniel Sterns complete harness is worth the price. I did not think so when I saw it, but now I do.

How about a parts list? Maybe it will help someone in the future who wants to consider the same modification. Daniel Sterns kit come with 3 relays and 3 holders, 3 inline fuse wires etc. I wanted a 4th relay for my lower bumper LED lights. So I expanded on his kit and have 4 fuses, relays etc. I ordered my headlights at Sterns suggestion. I strongly encourage you folks to get yours from Genos. They are equal or better. I also did not use the three individual inline heavy gauge fuse holders from the kit. I wanted my fuse block as one assembly, one feed wire, and therefore easier to mount and maintain compact real estate.

1 each RIK RAM Daniel Sterns sport headlight component kit. (parts and connectors, most listed below)
1 each 1590467 Dorman Sport headlight assembly right side
1 each 1590468 Dorman Sport headlight assembly left side
1 each 5045 Blue sea common feed 4 position ATC/ATO blade fuse block
1 pair Philips Extreme vision 9007 bulbs
1 pair Philips Extreme vision 9004 bulbs
4 each 2252 Flosser German relays with twin 87 output terminals. I could not find these and ordered extras from Daniel Stern.
A word on relays. Relays with two output 87 terminals must not be labeled 87 and 87a. These relays switch from one terminal to the other. You want a relay with straight 87 labeled terminals. So both terminals are hot upon activation. No "a" after one of the 87's.
4 each M-08-04 9004/CF Hella sockets for each new bulb
2 each 9004/CM MALE sockets, these plug into the 2 truck plugs for the relay signals to turn on the respective relay
3 Sizes MISC feet of small, med and large ribbed wire loom.
4 each epoxy filled heat shrink ring eye connectors crimp on for each bulb ground.
1 section as needed 6 or 8GA feed wire to the 4 place fuse panel. I pulled from the fuse block main power post. About 10 inches away.
2 each 6 or 8GA ring eye terminals with the correct post size for the above feed wire.
1 4-5 inch long epoxy heat shrink tubing for your 6-8GA feed wire terminals
1 roll Scotch super 33+ electrical tape. To bundle wire groups. This tape is rated one of the best for cold weather and best adhesive and long lasting.
7 different color wires either regular copper or tinned coated wire. Document what is what for troubleshooting later.
1 soldering iron
1 small diameter rosin core solder and flux . Acid core is for radiators and will corrode electrical terminals over time. Use rosin core.
2 pair crimpers of the correct design.

And if you mount the works like I did
1 1/8 aluminum plate with 2 metal clamps that fit the battery hold down long bolt snugly. Plus 7 appropriate length 10/32 screws to hold everything on the plate.
1 pack of quality tie wraps to secure the wire loom in place when you are done.

OK then, how about those pictures.

The Projector (upsidedown)

#ad


The sport.

#ad


Garage door Projector low beam. (poorly aimed I know...)

#ad


Garage door sport low beam.

#ad


Garage door projector high beam.

#ad


Garage door Sport high beam.

#ad


Dark gravel road Projector low beam

#ad


Dark gravel road Sport low beam

#ad


Dark gravel road projector high beam

#ad


Dark gravel road Sport high beam.

#ad


So a big improvement with light distribution. If it saves me one deer, moose, bear, wolf, cougar, turkey strike, It will have paid for itself I feel.
No LED lights were harmed or used in this demonstration. Mr. Sterns would be proud. ;)I will plug that relay in when it arrives. I hope this helps anyone who is considering this change later. It was more money than I expected, but good night vision is a good thing. I am very happy with the results.

Cheers,
Al or jeepbuilder....:)
 
Last edited:
You did a nice job of comparison photos. I did the Sports headlight conversion a few years ago and I also was pleased with the results. I especially like how the light is spread to the sides on low beams. It is easy to see where to turn onto cross streets or driveways when there is no street lighting.

I made my own relays setup and I used four relays (two per side, fused with a cyclic circuit breaker separately). You can see the relays and their respective circuit breakers in the photos. The dots on the relays represent low and high beam. The circuit breakers are mounted on the fan shroud in a protected area below the relays.

Passenger side
20191120_083018.jpg


Driver side
20191120_082914.jpg
 
Last edited:
I found a good article on LED headlight bulbs in the latest issue of TDR magazine. Issue 106 for NOV/DEC/JAN page 86 . Titled "Back in the saddle" written by Scott Dalgleish. It is a good read. The whole magazine was. I should have saved some of it for later. I had trouble putting it down. :D
 
A word of advice on mounting the relays. I initially had my relays loose and kind of hanging between the battery and the washer bottle. They seem to be VERY susceptible to water. I replaced three of them and finally secured them vertically. Haven't replaced one since.
 
Good advice on the relays. My first plan was to mount that plate with everything on it on the forward end of the battery tray. I then discovered I could not reach the headlight bulbs without removing the battery and mount. Plus the fuses and relays were a little over an inch away from the washer fill lid. Sure enough, I would have filled the relays trying to top off the washer fluid. Building stuff is all fun, but not when it creates excess work (where is that funnel?) to accomplish basic tasks or takes something out of commission. It is good to discover better changes before drilling holes. I like the idea of the dots on the relays. Label everything.
 
I went with an "L" and an "H". I'd have forgotten which dot was which...:rolleyes:

I recently made a harness for BillBaker and we put his relays on the passenger side firewall. Made the harness a bit longer but they're nice and out of the weather. I used 10 gauge wire for the power and ground so the extra length was alright.
 
Boy, LED's with their low power draw and the relay kit removing the load from the light switch would be the best case scenario ever for the main issue here.
I am putting in the Phillips bulbs Mr sterns recommended. .....for now. I have read he hates LED lighting. Well LED's are the way to go with all the advancements they have made. My home has them, my boat, and camper was just converted. Keep in mind he is building solutions for high draw systems and LED's kind of negate the need. I get it though. Maybe someone will be the guinea pig and do the LED's in sport lights. Then post it. Maybe I will be that guy later...ha ha.
I found this and ordered two of them. One for each side of the truck and future needs. This tidy's up the power feed to the relays. No loose fuse holder pigtails. One large feed and fuses that are not flopping around. Amazon has them cheaper, but they are probably fakes.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue...ct-4-circuit-fuse-block--17054206?recordNum=1

I should be done with all this by 2020.:)
I think Daniel Stern doesn't like LED headlight bulbs because the original style housings were never intended or designed to be used with LED bulbs. Most LED "replacement/upgrade" bulbs are NOT DOT approved either. I did the Sport Headlight conversion on my '96 3500 with Daniel Sterns plug and play harnesses and it was literally a day and night difference. I would rank them right up there with my '09 Jeep Commander's headlights for area coverage and beam cut-off. It's awesome.
 
I think the plug and play is the way to go. It took me all day to build the harness. I don't mind electrical work, have the right crimpers, etc. But time seems to be valuable these days. I recently moved my truck to plow around it. It was dark and turning on the headlights was a fun reminder of the recent work. I sat there and flipped between high and low beam just for kicks. I have parked it as I don't like driving it on our salted roads. The salt is super aggressive and is wrecking our 4runner and Tundra underneath. I miss driving the Dodge. Yes, night and day is an understatement. I highly recommend the modification to anyone thinking about doing it. It was spendy but very worth it.
 
the original light housings started taking on water last spring, looked like an aquarium a few days after I noticed the condensation building up, lenses fell off when I removed housings...eventually I got around to installing Daniel Stern's wiring kit and suggested parts as I was too busy to monkey with finding all of the individual parts and doing the wiring harness myself at the time...WOW what an improvement, could see in the ditches really well, and could actually see up the road in fog or a driving rain...I had to modify his wiring slightly to get power, but not a big enough problem to complain about it...
 
His kit is very convenient. Granted I like searching out things and building stuff, but in this case I was glad to get it all at once and get it done. I too am really liking the huge improvement in visibility. The only problem I am currently having is ..... my truck is parked. I am not driving it on the salted hiways here. I see the same vintage trucks in town and they are missing sheet metal all over from rust. I have a sacrificial Toyota Tundra for that. It was my dads truck before he passed.
The hiway to get home is an experimental road de-icer corridor. My truck is darn nice and in exceptional condition. I'm not going there with rust. So I am missing it right now. Glad to hear another lighting improvement story!!
 
Have an '02 Dodge/Cummins 4x4 with the OEM 'Daylight Running Lights' . . . .
Have ordered the Sport Quad headlights as suggested by Daniel Stern, and will be ordering his pre-built wiring harness.
On a link he provided lightsout.org they tell how to disable the DRL module . . . .
Questions: has anyone disabled their DRL as described ?
Can the whole DRL be removed ?
Any info would be appreciated.
 
Have an '02 Dodge/Cummins 4x4 with the OEM 'Daylight Running Lights' . . . .
Have ordered the Sport Quad headlights as suggested by Daniel Stern, and will be ordering his pre-built wiring harness.
On a link he provided lightsout.org they tell how to disable the DRL module . . . .
Questions: has anyone disabled their DRL as described ?
Can the whole DRL be removed ?
Any info would be appreciated.
I'm not trying to sell you anything. I know just how much time, effort and money will be involved in your choice of the quad light fix. Before you go down that road, see my post dated 10/31/2019 in this thread. Those bulbs are simple plug and play. The difference is extraordinary. Your opinion and your results may vary.
 
Here is the link to where I purchased them. For some reason, this forum software will not allow me to post the link to Amazon where I purchased these headlight assemblies. (TOTAL UNACCEPTABLE) Got to Amazon, cut and paste the below text and the headlight assemblies and suggested LED lights should come up.

DWVO Compatible with 94-01 Dodge Ram 1500/94-02 Dodge Ram 2500 3500 Headlight Assembly OE Style Replacement Chrome Housing + Corner Lights DWVO Compatible with 94-01 Dodge Ram 1500/94-02 Dodge Ram 2500 3500 Headlight Assembly OE Style Replacement Chrome Housing + Corner Lights
 
Last edited:
Have an '02 Dodge/Cummins 4x4 with the OEM 'Daylight Running Lights' . . . .
Have ordered the Sport Quad headlights as suggested by Daniel Stern, and will be ordering his pre-built wiring harness.
On a link he provided lightsout.org they tell how to disable the DRL module . . . .
Questions: has anyone disabled their DRL as described ?
Can the whole DRL be removed ?
Any info would be appreciated.
Living in Canada I've had DRLs for a long time. I really don't understand the anger at lightsout.org. I like that my vehicle is more visible (at least from the front). In rain or fog I turn on my lights anyway. The issue here is ghost cars -- people forget to turn on their lights at night because they see a dim headlight plus the dash is always illuminated. Hence no marker lights. In a couple of years Canada moves to DRLs + marker lights.

All Dodge Rams are wired for DRL and the US versions use a jumper (in the DRL connector) instead of a module to pass the high beam signal through and make everything work. The instructions at lightsout.org are simply wrong.

I found this link describing it and the pin numbers match my service manual wiring diagram. I accept no responsibility if there's smoke.
 
Last edited:
On MoparMan's site the wiring diagrams are available . . . . on the diagram for the DRL w standard headlights, it shows two red/orange wires in the module plug. Was wondering which one to cut/join?
Would like to keep the DRL but, the wiring/relay set-up from Daniel Stern is not compatible with it apparently.
 
My wiring diagram (for the DRL) shows red/orange from pin 8 to battery+ and red/orange from pin 6 to headlamp beam select switch. I'm not familiar with Daniel Stern's wire harness. There is factory wiring for DRL plus sport lights. It uses the high beam indicator to drive a relay to activate the second high beam lamp. I don't know how to modify the factory standard headlight with DRL to sport headlights with DRL. I'd need to print out all the wiring pages and tape them together into one large sheet.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top