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2WD low kits?

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I have read all the TDR threads on these kits and the do it your self threads but still have questions. Many of the links to personal sites and others are no longer working. What I want is a setup that reverses the vacuum to the CAD so that when it is switched to 2wd low there is vacuum holding it there rather then just shutting all vacuum off to the tcase like some do. I understand that the BD kit does this as does the BobV kit. I want more information like pictures, links and thoughts on these kits. Where are the vacuum controls mounted and the like.



I would prefer to build my own setup but don't know how to find a vacuum valve that will reverse the vacuum to the CAD. I don't want just a simple on/off valve. Any thought?



Thanks,

Mark
 
Here are the instructions and a photo from Bob Verhoef -- email address removed --. Since you "have read all the TDR threads on these kits" I imagine this is old stuff. BobV's kit is well thought out, easy to install, and simple. I opted for the black knob in my model year 2000 Ram.



Tools needed



Drill motor and 3/8”drill bit (’98-’01 shifter mount)

3/4” hole saw or flat blade wood bit ( ‘98 -‘01 consol mount)

Allen wrenches

Razor knife

Tape measure

7/8 end wrench (consol mount)







This kit includes:

Manual Valve Assembly (valve, three push connect fittings, two vent filters)

Black Nylon Tubing

Split Poly Loom

Mounting Bracket (for shifter mounting only)

Grommet (98 - 01 shifter mounting)

Vacuum Hose Cap

Tie Wraps





Safety Instructions

Please use caution when working under or around your vehicle. Set parking brake and block wheels if necessary.



WARNING!

This kit is intended only to aid in low speed maneuvering. The increase in torque to the rear wheels when in two-wheel low can cause damage if misused. Do not use on rough terrain or above 1300 engine RPM. We will not be responsible for damage do to misuse of this kit.





Operation

This kit allows the front axel to engage-disengage by the manual valve. The transfer case shifter will operate the same as before with the exception that the manual valve needs to be pulled out to engage the front axel. The switch for the 4WD indicator light is located on the front axel. The light should only be on when the front axel is engaged. To engage 2WD low simply shift the transfer case shifter into 4WD low and leave the manual valve in. (4WD light will not come on) To go from 2WD low to 4WD low pull out on the manual valve. (4WD light will come on) To go from 4WD low to 2WD low push in on the manual valve. (4WD light will go out) To go from 2WD high to 4WD high shift transfer case to 4WD high and pull out on the manual valve. (The 4WD light will come on) To return to normal 2WD shift the transfer case to 2WD and push in on the manual valve. (the 4WD light will not go out until the manual valve is pushed in) Always move the shifter first then the manual valve. When the transfer case is in 2WD the manual valve should be down. It is best not to pull out on the manual valve until the shifter is in 4WD.







Instructions



Step One

Verify the operation of the four-wheel drive indicator light. Shift the transfer case into four low or four high and check for the dash light. If necessary drive the truck back and forth until the light comes on. If the light does not work repair prior to proceeding.



Step Two

Remove the shifter boot(s).



‘94 -‘97 manual and automatic - remove the Philip head screws that hold upper transmission and/or transfer case boot in place.

‘98 -‘01 manual - remove the Philip head screws that hold the upper transmission shifter boot in place followed by removing the transfer case boot by gently squeezing the sides of the boot while pulling back and up.

‘98 -‘01 automatic - remove transfer case boot by gently squeezing the sides of the boot while pulling back and up.



Step Three



For Shifter mount 98-01 manual and automatic transmission

Refer to step four instructions with the exception that you will need to drill and deburr a 3/8 hole in the floorboard to the front of the transfer case shifter mount. Refer to diagram “A” for location. Install the supplied grommet in this hole. Run the tubing through this grommet and between the transfer case shifter shaft and boot



For Shifter mount 94-97 manual and automatic transmissions

Refer to step four instructions with the exception that you will run the tubes between the shifter shaft and both the upper and lower transfer case boots.



For console mount 98-01manual transmissions

Remove the consoles six 5/16 hex screws that hold the console in place. There are two screws under the transmission shifter boot and two screws under the transfer case shifter boot and one each under each of the cup holders rubber coasters. Choose either top or back mounting. See diagram “B” for hole positioning and drill the 3/4-inch mounting hole. A hole saw or flat blade wood bit are recommended. A regular twist drill can bite in to the plastic and could cause damage to console. If end mounting, pull the console up enough to access for drilling. Use an Awl or other sharp pointed tool to make a hole in the flat part of the transmission boot. See diagram “C”. Run the tubing through this hole.



Step four



Push the first black tubing through the path described in step three. Go under the truck and pull through enough tubing to reach the transfer case valve connector. This connector is located on the top of the transfer case and has four black vacuum hoses coming out of it. The other end of these hoses is connected to black, white, red and green colored tubing. Remove the connector from the transfer case by pulling up while gently rocking back and forth. Using diagram “D” as a guide, cut the hose that the light gray tube is connected 1 1/4” from the base of the connector as shown. Connect the new tubing to the hose that is still connected to the light gray tube by inserting the tubing into the hose approximately 3/8”. (wetting the tube will ease insertion) See diagram “D”. Connect the other end of this tubing to port #1 of the manual valve (supplied). Leave the valve loose in a convenient location for now. The connectors on the valve are push to connect style. To install the tubing simply push the tube into the connector hole until it stops. To remove the tubing push in on the ring around the tubing at the end of the connector and pull out on the



(continued)



tubing. Do not be concerned about tubing length at this time. Insert the next tubing through the hole and connect it to the other end of hose that goes to the transfer case valve connector that the light gray tube was connected to. See diagram “D”. Connect the other end of this tubing to port #2 on the manual valve. Insert the last tubing through the hole. Back under the truck, remove the hose at the connector that the red tube is connected to. See diagram “D”. This hose might be hard to remove. If necessary cut a split in the hose over the barbed nipple next to the transfer case valve connector, cut off and discard the split end. Cap off the barbed nipple with the cap supplied. Connect the last of the new tubing to the hose that the red tube is connected. See diagram “D”. Connect the other end to port #4 on the manual valve. Reinstall the connector by lining up the two indentations on the transfer case valve connector with the two posts that stick up from the transfer case valve. Make sure all the connections line up then push down while gently rocking back and forth. Cut the supplied Split Poly Loom to the proper length and cover the new tubing. Tape or tie wrap out of the way.



Step Five



Check operation. Start truck and shift into either four high or four low. Lift up the manual valve knob and drive the truck back and forth until the four-wheel drive dash indicator light comes on. After the light comes on push the manual valve knob down. The light should go out. Shift back into two-wheel drive and pull up on the manual valve. The light should not come on. If the system does not operate correctly recheck all the hose connections as shown in diagram “D”.





Step Six



Shifter mounting

Mount the shifter bracket on the shifter. Determine an orientation that works best for your application. ’94 -’97 can be “clocked” in almost any direction. ’98 -’01 manuals can only be positioned at 6 and 9 o’clock. The autos can be positioned at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The bracket should butt up to the bottom of the shifter knob. After the bracket and valve are in place and you have checked that there is no kinking or binding of the tubing in any shifter position, the hoses can be shortened. Using a razor knife cut each tube, one at a time, to the proper length. Tape or tie wrap where necessary. The connectors on the valve can swivel for orientation. The stem on the manual valve is not centered and the valve may have to be rotated for proper clearance. Note that the knob set screw has been “locktighted” for shifter mounting applications.



Console mounting

To install the valve remove the knob. Thread the first brass nut on the threaded stem of the manual valve, leaving 1/4” thread above it. Place the valve stem in the mounting hole that was drilled earlier and thread the second nut on the shaft and tighten. The top of the nut should be flush with the top of the shaft. If not, adjust first nut. Using a razor knife, shorten the tubing at the manual valve to the appropriate length when the consol is in place. Note that the connectors on the valve can swivel for orientation. The stem on the manual valve is not centered and the valve may have to be rotated for proper clearance.





Step Seven



Reinstall the console and/or shifter boot(s)



Photo
 
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I bought a switch at a place that does truck bodies, plows, etc. It's a pneumatic valve for a liftgate control. It switches the vaccuum instead of cutting it of. Cost was just under $25.
 
If you are wanting a great 2Wlow kit, go with BOB V's kit. It is complete, does what is advertised and is a bargin at around $75. 00. Bob's kit does it right, not use kill tha vacume, and the CAD bounces aroud in there, his kit reverse the vacume like you mentioned and holds the CAD in lock-out. There is no electric to mess with, and his kit is a simple solution to a complex problem.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I would love to buy a kit but money is always tight for me. I'm still hoping to find a valve that will do the job.
 
The valve I have is about the same as the one in the Bob V kit. (does the exact same thing) I could try to see if I can find a part number for you. His kit is nice because it includes all the parts and eliminates the legwork. I'm cheap and like that kind of thing.
 
bighammer, I think I'm going to try for an electric setup just because it will be easier to mount a lighted switch anywhere I might want it plus I have an add-in fuse block I can hook up to real easy. The valve you and BobV are using is manual right? If it is I will keep you in mind in case I decide to go manual.
 
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