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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 3 Melted Pistons

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Trying to get EGTs down

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission brake pads

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Originally posted by Partyat33



This will be a VERY long weekend. I hope I can get it out by Sunday.



Dennis

Hey don't you mean out torn down, honed and rebuilt by this Sunday. :-laf :-laf Just kidding.

I know it can be a real PITA. I hope it all works out, and goes your way.

MIKE
 
Got the starter out, the fan and shroud out, radiator out, exhaust unhooked, etc. Having a hard time with the front bumper, do you have to take the lower part off "?





Dennis
 
Well, it took about 15 hours with my wife handing me tools on and off. The engine is OUT. It was not all that hard. I think putting it back in may be trick to get everything lined up. Now to tear it down, rebuild and finish it. Changing out the clutch will be easy though.





Dennis
 
Got the engine out and on a stand. Got a Harbor Freight 2000lb stand. Don't think so, seems like it going to break at any second. Got the head off and the three burnt pistons plus one that looked OK out.



Now to do a little measuring. Anybody got any tips on honing and deglazing. Manual is pretty brief on this topic.



Dennis
 
Hone

Send it to a reputable shop and have it done right. Cummins hones these blocks with a torque plate installed at the factory, I don't know where you will find a shop with a plate for one of these. Insist on it even if you have to ship it half way across the country!
 
Just got done doing this myself. Take the block to a machine shop and have it honed and washed. Have them check the deck. Next, get that engine off that stand ASAP! It will not hold it for long. You need a stand that supports the engine from the sides. We couldn't find anybody that had one we could borrow so I went to my local diesel engine rebuild shop and they laughed at me when I asked them about an engine stand for the Cummins 5. 9. They said "that little thing". We don't use a stand, we just rebuild those little guys on a 3x4 cart with wheels. (This is a very hi quality shop) I just happen to have such a cart. (I have pics if you’re interested. ) So that's what we did and it worked great! There is an order in which you need to do it. First you put the block head down, install the crank shaft, back plate, flywheel, rear main seal, ext... Then you stand the short block on the back plate and install the pistons, head, pan and every thing else. Getting the engine back in a horizontal position is tricky but you can do it. The rest is pretty much self evident. One other thing, we couldn’t use the back pulling hook so we strapped the engine chain to a head bolt in the back. Let me know if I can help any further.
 
Re: Hone

Originally posted by aphyfe

Send it to a reputable shop and have it done right. Cummins hones these blocks with a torque plate installed at the factory, I don't know where you will find a shop with a plate for one of these. Insist on it even if you have to ship it half way across the country!



aphyfe, I had my block machined local and no problems!
 
I stopped by a local machine/diesel repair shop. The looked like they new what they were doing. His theory is a timing problem, not an injector problem. Or possible a flat cam. Hmmm.



Now I am really unsure what to do.



PS

I keep the crane tight on the top of the engine. I don't trust the stand. But if you hold it up from both sides, how do you turn it over to work on it ?



Dennis
 
NOTHING sounds as sickening as an engine falling and hitting the concrete - especially AFTER all the time and money spent overhauling it...



Don't ask how *I* know this...
 
There are definetly groves of some type in # 5 and # 1, # 6 is pretty smooth. Guess I will have to take it to the machine shop.



It does not seem likely that a simple hone job will do !!!





Dang it !!!:{ :{ :{ :{
 
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