3rd gen valve cover revisited

[Matt400]

I bought in as a "preferred customer" and was 50. 00 for a year.

At first I was skeptical about it but once in there and looking around find it was a good decision.



I plan to do a cam change in the near future and the data is more clear on the procedure than the Ram manual. They have a "free" version of the sign up also but you get less access.

 

[Matt400]

Interesting find today. . I pulled my (filter to CP3) line off in favor of a Scotty piece and see the old line fits the valve cover oil drain nicely.



While working in there I noticed my draft tube is wet but not much and I get no driveway stains so I still believe the Fleetguard piece would do better especially with engine mods.



Anybody have an idea how I could get an engine number from a Marine 5. 9 ISBe?

Having that would make parts look up a snap on Cummins Quick Serve.

 

[Matt400]

This is what the Marine breather fitting is like, to the left is an AirSep.

 

[rbattelle]

That big hose goes to the AirSep? What's the difference in function between the tube and the hose?



-Ryan

 

[Matt400]

The AirSep is to the left, you can't see it in the figure. That round thingamajig the hose is connected to is between the AirSep and the hose.

The metal pipe is simply an oil drain and connects to the same location on our trucks.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

One thing about sending the blowby to a remote location is it can't be allowed to get too cool in the winter, otherwise you run the risk of condensation or thickening oil plugging it up or creating too much backpressure. Probably one reason it's mounted on the valve cover for the Ram application.



Vaughn

 

[Matt400]

Oh geeze! now I gotta build a breather heater.

 

[nickleinonen]

Oh geeze! now I gotta build a breather heater.

nah, just weld into your downpipe or midpipe a vacuum generator pipe and plumb the crankcase vent line into that through a very light swing gate check valve to make sure you don't pressureize the crankcase if someone/something plugs your exhaust outlet. . and a light vacuum relief valve inline after the check to not create too low a pressure in the sump [keep it at less than 1"hg vacuum is good]



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something that looks like the above with the exhaust flow going >>>>>>

 

[Matt400]

Thats interesting you brought that up Nick, someone on here. . not sure who it was did just that. I think it was a 2nd gen fella that was tired of the oily mess under the truck and now runs it in the exhaust. Guess you could call it CVR for Crankcase Vent Recirculation.



Sure wouldn't want to do that upstream of a Cat or it would clog in no time.



I see Moroso makes this kit complete with check valves to evac the crankcase in that manner. Looks like you would then plumb a vent to the air filter so the case would get filtered air.

I am not sure why you couldn't do a Diesel that way.

 

[nickleinonen]

the crankcase does not get any make up air... with that setup, you want to run the crankcase at a negitive pressure... the breather caps there are just like a strainer/condenser, to try and prevent raw oil from being drawn out the scavanging system.



at work we use systems similar in operation on the locomotives. in this pic, you can see the where the "eductor" tube is mounted to the exhaust right above the turbocharger. the larger round hole in the rear of the engine/turbocharger mounting face is where the oil separator/condenser mounts... at full load on a nicely sealing engine, the emd 2 cycle engines can draw like 10"h20 negitive pressure in the crankcase [these ones also have an airbox assist device on them, they take air box pressure and blow it across the top of the separator housing, kinda like blowing across a straw in water, you create a low pressure spot and the water rises in the straw]...



the GE 4 cycle engines run at just a 0-2"h2o negitive pressure... if you get positive pressure on either in the 4-6"h20 range, the engines will shut down for crankcase pressure... this usually happens when this or something similar happens happens. . big mess usually

 

[Matt400]

Why a negative pressure? I thought the idea was to evacuate the crankcase of contaminants while minimizing pressure or vacuum on seals.



The Moroso tech line felt 1/2 of there kit would work well on a CTD but would have to run with no muffler because it needs 0 back pressure to work.



On the above link there is an install pdf file that shows the exhaust venturi positioned much the same way I use to start a siphon with an air hose.

Blowing high pressure at an angle like that works well to start a siphon without sucking on the hose.



In your diagram you have it set up different and looks more like a draft tube would.

Probably work better for lower pressures in the exhaust. I suppose the closer the better to the turbo outlet.

 

[nickleinonen]

negitive pressure = less [zero] oil leaks



they also claim better ring sealing which i can understand... rings seal best on power as the pressure gets behind the ring and presses against the bore. . with a low pressure in the crankcase, it would start to allow the rings to get more effective pressure behind them sooner



with the engines at work with the lower pressure in the CC on the engines, it draws out most of the oil vapours that could combust if you get a hot spot in the engine... with the CC the size that it is at work, when something combusts in the CC, it can blow out all the engine covers and you can get CC fires that do damage...



when i get a good welding machine i will weld a bung into my midpipe at the 4"-5" transission and put in a draft tube and measure what i can get the negitive pressure down to 1. idling, 2. governed, 3. load [25psi boost/2500rpm] and see how i could plumb a oil separator element into it [and eventually get this nice looking aluminum valve cover working]

 

[Matt400]

Wow. . I finally tracked down the Cummins part numbers for the 2 Marine pieces in the figure I posted.

#1 molded hose 3973096 is only $62. 69

#2 fitting 3973094 is just $105. 90



Imagine that?? Oh I could afford it alright but had to decline based on principal.

 

[lmills]

OMG, that's crazy!

 

[nickleinonen]

and we all thought the dealer was expensive. .

 

[Matt400]

Ok Nick,

Now you got me thinking about the Crankcase Ventilation System, I come from a gasser background where the PCV system is pretty important to rid the case of contaminants so I started another thread questioning what we currently have so hope you and others will chime in when you have time here

 

[rbattelle]

Ok Nick,

Now you got me thinking about the Crankcase Ventilation System, I come from a gasser background where the PCV system is pretty important to rid the case of contaminants so I started another thread questioning what we currently have so hope you and others will chime in when you have time here

Don't give up on this valve cover, Matt!

 

[nickleinonen]

Don't give up on this valve cover, Matt!

i want to see the CC evac system and this valve cover working together... i really should get off my arse and go to cummins mississauga and get the filters i need [1 case each of fuel and oil filters] and order this valve cover... i am so lazy though being it is an hour from my home... [but only 30 min from work if i go there straight in the morning]

 

[lmills]

I am not sure why Moroso told you that you would have to ditch your muffler, but we have ran their kit on numerous motors(probably 15-20 set ups) and have ran the exhaust through mufflers every time. We have never had any issues. The system works good!

 

[Matt400]

Don't give up on this valve cover, Matt!

Oh. . I am not- this cover is going on for sure. I just would like to use either the OEM Fleetguard oil separator/breather or an aftermarket that would work just as well without costing a bundle.



The covers internal baffle looks more like an oil splash piece than a oil/air separator.



Also once looking into this I see the OEM crankcase evacuation system is pretty lame IMO. I want to be careful not to create even more crankcase pressures with some other devise.