4 Wheel disk conversion

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I bought the slotted rotors for the front so they run 350 deg cooler for those... . I bought those along with the carbon kevlar pads. If they do warp, I will be able to get them changed from EGR but so far they are good. I just went up a canyon that goes from 5000 to 10000 ft and 15 miles and the truck stops on the downhills and steep decents just fine. no fade, no low pedal, just sure stopping.



I would recomend for the price, to go and get all the OEM parts as it is $100 cheaper for all the parts. Thats what I would have done if I had known about the price...
 
Guys the 70%-30% is for a EMPTY truck or car, NOT a Loaded Heavy Duty Truck. Even the newer ABS systems make changes for load. I will stick wih OEM, anyone else using "other componets" please stay in front of me:rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
It sure stopes alot better. Don't tow anything so have no opinion on that. Sure is nice not have to adjust rear brakes all the time. All you do is get drum off hub and swap with new rotor.
 
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#2DSL



In your opinion would the OEM conversion work on a 1998 12v 2x4 with a dana 70 3. 54 limited slip rear end? I noticed in your signature that you have a 3. 54 limited slip but is it a dana 70 or dana 80 in the 4x4?



Thanks, Mike
 
I called the local dealer here to get prices on changing out to rear disc brakes, and the total cam out to over 1300 bucks for the parts that were listed previously. Another thing, my truck has the dana 80, so what would be the differences there? The truck is a 99 4x4 quadcab 5speed. Is it a Dana 80 center with 70 tubes? or a full 80?



What would be the differences in parts?
 
Morphious



Ask your dealer (parts manager) if they will give you a discount. I asked and got a 20% off without them even blinking an eye. Also some of the local Diesel clubs already have a discounts in place with the local dealer. I tend to be a cheap sob, so I am always asking, even at NAPA and Carquest, if you intend to buy something over $100, ask for a better price, they have all kinds of different price levels.

Kyle
 
Important New (followup) Information

FROM PAGE 2 OF THIS THREAD:



Originally posted by EricBu12

... I was going to take the tires off and I found out I couldn't remove them, they were wedged on!!



I have the Dana 80 with the full floater axle. It had the drum on the outside of the hub. , there is a ridge on the hub for this and the rim goes on the outside of the drum... .



I had to take off the tire via the axle out and the hub off so I could slam the hub off the rim.



Eric, I just installed my EGR rear disc brake conversion kit on my Ram (although I haven't completed the emergency brake portion of the installation yet). I was acutely aware of the 5/16" aluminum shims (1 ea. side) that were supplied with later EGR conversion kits as a result of your findings. As I have 16"x8" M/T Alcoa Challenger forged aluminum wheels (that use taper seat lugs), I was concerned that I might have a problem with stud length and appreciably reduced grip length. However, after very careful scrutinization and measuring, I discovered that my aftermarket wheels fit right up against the hub without the use of the 5/16" thick aluminum shims. In order to be sure, I used prussian blue on a few places on the hub (between studs), installed the wheel with three equally spaced (more or less) lug nuts, tightening them to an estimated 35 lb. ft. of torque. The prussian bluing transfered at all locations, thus, substantiating my calculations.



Then after more thought it came to me...



your OE Dodge forged aluminum wheels (16"x8") are hub centric whereas my M/T Alcoa's are lug centric. What that means is just this, I have more clearance in the center hole of my wheel because I'm not locating off of it.



So the moral of this story is this...



if you have aftermarket wheels and they index via the lug centric method there is a good chance you will not require the use of the 5/16" thick aluminum spacers provided by EGR. However, the appropriate checks to ensure this must be made!




I have the Dana 80 with the full floater axle.



Eric, I've read this several times in your posts now... this thread as well as others. Here's the deal; the Dana 70 (2500/automatic transmission), the Dana 80 hybrid (like you have in your 2500/manual transmission Ram), and Dana 80 (3500, manual or automatic transmission), ALL have full floating axles.
 
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John,

Thats what I after sightedly found out, boy that was a B**** getting the hubs off... . Anyway, I used the spacers sent to me from EGR and so far all is well. The Disks hold well on a in-cline using the "press the pedal and then the E-brake meathod" holds on a 10% grade.....



The slotted rotors do well with the carbon kevlar pads, one time I had to stop hard and they brought my 8000# truck down very quickly. I have towed a few times and a few hard stops and no rotor warpage and the pads are still great.
 
Eric, after measuring EVERYTHING out (exposed stud length, spacer thickness etc. ), I decided to run the EGR supplied spacers (5/16" thick). So far, no problems. However, I haven't completely broken in the brakes yet.



BTW, before installing the right front OE steel spacer and the two aluminum EGR rear spacers, I applied an anti-seize product to 100% of the inward facing surface.
 
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Disk brake conversion help

As much as I would love to join the change over to rear disk, I cannot drop $1000 at this time. So, I am asking for some help fixing the problem I have with my 98 24v 3500 4x4. The PO was not very much on pm, so I have now got 2 drums that have been run with bad shoes until there is NO materal left at all, so it has cut 2 very deep grooves in the drums.



With all of you guys upgrading to disk, what is the chance I could get a pair of drums to fix my truck until I can get the fundage to change to disk?



What about it guys, you were not planning to change back were you?



Thanks, Tim:)
 
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