48re power handling

[JDiepstra]

It lies. :-laf:-laf



You do realize that showing that much slip when the TC is locked is a bad thing, right?





The monitors read slip as the difference between engine rpm's and transmission output shaft speed. I have yet to see or hear of one that reads zero slip in lockup so the electronics leave a little to be desired. Most read 2-3 percent and that seems to be the norm for a good trans. Reading 8-9 percent slip, well, the only question is when is it gonna die.



On the other hand, slip monitors are a bigger lie-o-meter than the over head mpg so who knows.

Man, I didn't know it was possible to be a bigger liar than my overhead mpg computer! And yes, I know slip in lock-up is not good. My Attitude will read 0. 0% slip while in lockup til I give it a good amount of pedal. Then it will go up a bit, but never over 9. 8%. Then if I get on it hard the converter will unlock, I believe as a safety precaution for the TC. I am looking for an indication that my slippage is increasing, but with my HTS VB, it has been holding strong. Time will tell. The TC, flexplate, billet input, and maybe new bands and clutchpacks (whatever they are called) if needed will come as soon as the funds do!

 

[LRutigliano]

listen, i have a 2006 w/48re. it is at about 440hp/770+tq. i had it on a dyno early this summer 410hp/740tq... ... ..... stock transmission! yes, stock transmission! it has just under 60k now, just did a transmission filter and amsoil last night. guess what, it runs like a raped ape. so, tell me, how can you say it cant hold the power. i also use it for light towing, on tow setting of course. towing under 8000lbs.

its not slipping it does shift oddly at times, only when i'm not getting after it; i run 295/70/17 tires, but again, explain to me how my 48re doesn't hold the power. oh, i have also gone through 2sets of tires and the present ones have about 20k left of tread..... so you can see i'm not easy on it. again this is the same transmission (48re), that i had on my 2004. on the 2004, i pulled in excess of 10k of concrete panels. so, in my experience (2 48re's) i have had no problems running higher hp. i plan on getting a K&P transmission over the winter. so, maybe its the driver?

I have 18. 5k miles, 80hp injectors, CFM+ intake and Smarty on Level 1 (stock RP, default timing and torque mgmt) and a stock trans with a MH DD pan. I use the truck for towing an 11k 5er.



I've had the performance enhansers since about 13k.



When you changed your fluid and filter, how much clutch residue did you find on the magnet and bottom of pan? The MH has a much smaller magnet than the stock donut, so it looks like a bunch of material on it, but when I wiped on a paper towel, it wasn't that much...



My fluid temps are consistent at 140-150F while towing and 125-135F non-towing.



I would LOVE to splurge on a rebuilt to my specs trannie, but can't bring myself to do it with the current economy situation...



Are fluid temps really a good indication of what is going on?? Or will it just give out? I drive it like an Old Grandma...



Thanks,

Louis

 

[ABorgardt]

I recently traded my 06 2500 for an 06 3500 drw. I had no problems with the 2500 while having an edge on it. traded with 55k on it. obtained the 3500 with 60k on it, put the edge box on it. 2 months and 6k later in less than a weeks time i lost the kick-down band and the rivets ate the drum. I think im getting lucky, i found a guy to change the drum and the band and install a valve body w/shift kit for a little over a grand.

I didnt even see it coming, even with the edge transmission temp guage and the analog guage i have in the line out to the cooler. Temps never went over 210* on either guage during the time i have been driving it. Just happens that fast. To bad it cant be fixed that fast. LOL. Hoping to get it back today.

 

[cerberusiam]

I have 18. 5k miles, 80hp injectors, CFM+ intake and Smarty on Level 1 (stock RP, default timing and torque mgmt) and a stock trans with a MH DD pan. I use the truck for towing an 11k 5er.



I've had the performance enhansers since about 13k.



When you changed your fluid and filter, how much clutch residue did you find on the magnet and bottom of pan? The MH has a much smaller magnet than the stock donut, so it looks like a bunch of material on it, but when I wiped on a paper towel, it wasn't that much...



My fluid temps are consistent at 140-150F while towing and 125-135F non-towing.



I would LOVE to splurge on a rebuilt to my specs trannie, but can't bring myself to do it with the current economy situation...



Are fluid temps really a good indication of what is going on?? Or will it just give out? I drive it like an Old Grandma...



Thanks,

Louis

The temps are really not a good indication of problems unless they are high all the time. The temps will run normal and it will still eat itself easily.



You are borderline with the injectors and smarty but if you drive like you say its probably OK.



The internal problems that kill them are just due to the lack of holding power in the clutches. The only way to address that is more line pressure and replace the parts that can cause a lack of holding power.



The amount of clutch material is a good indication of whether the clutches are holding, but, what you see in the pan is not indicative of what is happening. The pan fluid is filtered and the suspended material is taken out be the filter so little ends up where it can easily be seen.



A better place to check is the top of the VB and that is some times tough to get to a place that will tell you anything without dropping it. The material will stay on top of the VB when the fluid drains away anddoesn't get constanly stirred up by the flow in the pan.