Here I am

48re to NV5600 swap

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Mechanics in Virginia

2007, 5.9 which long life diesel coolant?

RWHP 663,
Clutch, South Bend SDD3250-6
Realy miss Peter being there, it had been a while since I bought a clutch. Service and support was always awesome. by the way what ever happened to Thunder in Munice? Last time I went it was after it moved to Indy, total zoo, people going crazy, riding minibikes in the bathroom etc. never went back.
 
Well getting close to swap day, found and easy way to get the shifter hole in the rigrt place. So to help the next guy I will be posting some photos later (is there a good place to post things like that?). In short mopar put in punch marks in the floor where the floor shifter boot is screwed down, Use the shifter boot to mark the correct punch marks and drill them, use the bottom of the shifter boot to make a cut templete align the holes and cut. I do suggest getting and new floor shifter boot.
Right now I have been replacing seals in the NV5600 and the transfer case, I also have to reroute my wiring for my compressor controls, gauges, warning strobe lights, train horn, when I insalled of of that over the years I used the clutch firewall access plug, opps :).
And if I didnt have enough to do, we installed a Yukon Free Spin kit in the truck, allready seeing some improvement in fuel economy. It is a really nice and well built kit but the instructions suck.
 
Well finally got it done, had to wait for it to cool off some. It was a lot of work but it is definitely worth it. I am now getting all the power to the wheels, some reason EGTs are lower, not sure why but I am happy with that.
So here is my two cents.
The above YouTube video is right on and has a lot of great advice. His wiring for the clutch safety and the reverse lights is great.
Only thing I can add is buy a new floor shift boot and use the old one for a template. Screw hole alignment for shifter boot is already in the floor pan, there are dimples in the sheet metal where you need to drill.
THIS IS ONLY FOR THE NV5600,
Use the inside shifter boot place it on a piece of thick paper, mark the outside of the boot and punch the screw holes through the paper. Cut the paper on the out line. I used the same sheet metal screws to hold the paper in place on the under side of the boot side that I attached the new boot with. use a flashlight through the top of the shifter boot and that will show you where to draw/cut the inside line of the boot template. Line up the Template screw holes with the dimples in the floor, mark the locations with a marker, ALL holes in the template will lineup with the correct dimples in the floor. using the same screws you are going to attach the inside shifter boot attach your template to the floor and mark the center cut out area. Note I used a jigsaw and a Dremel with cut disks. Take your time, measure twice. Also the stamping in the floor plan that looks like where to cut is off set a little where the shifter hole really needs to be and is too small. you will not be able to get the transmission shifter base mount through without cutting more. I also test fitted with the new shifter boot for the correct fit. When it fit correctly I painted the new shifter hole so it would not rust.
Hope this helps
Kyle
 
It was a lot of work but it is definitely worth it. I am now getting all the power to the wheels,

The way it should be.

The more you drive the truck, the happier you will be, especially when you are towing through the mountains - both uphill and downhill.

- John
 
Are you going with the under the battery APPS or converting it to "TPS"
on the pedal 05 and up style. Keep me updated, because I am thinking about going down this road. Thanks for your time
 
finally got all the right parts installed, using Timbo's wiring harness going to the stock under battery APPS. Dont have cruise control,
moved wire pin 7 wire violet /yellow stripe to pin 36. have the right programming, i have been reading about grounding pin 22 in the c2 connector to get the cruise control idle up option to work with a manual transmission. any relationship there?
thanks
Kyle
 
Ok, new problem have p0572 code. Installed a new brake light switch, came back after a round trip to school and back, 36 miles. P0572 will disable the cruise control.
Any ideas?
 
Something get cut or unplugged while you were installing the clutch?

Do the brakes likes work when the code is active?
 
Yes they do, I'm looking into a new brake light switch pigtail.
Also I have had a bulb out warning that comes and goes since I replaced my rear tail lights. Is it possible the tail lights are messing with the computer?
 
I’m not aware of the bulb out effecting the brake light circuit, but you can get resistors that go inline to eliminate the lamp out light.
 
When I installed Timbo's wiring harness it was suggested to move C2 pin 7 to C2 pin 36 to make the crusie work.
So now after 3 brake light swiches I have swapped out, still getting P0572 code without a CEL, I began back tracing wires on cruise supply wire it's VT/YL and right now I'm only getting 4.24 volts at the brake light switch on pin 4. I followed it back to the C2 ecm connector and according to the manual it should be in pin 7 (manual transmission) which is was where it started from, not pin 32 (automatic trans). So is my OEM Dodge Truck manual wrong?
Does anyone know what the voltage is supposed to be at pin 4 on the brake light switch VT/YL colored wire?
Thanks
Kyle
IMG_20231014_180546409.jpg
 
Speed Control Supply on an A/T ECM is pin 7.

Speed Control Supply on an M/T ECM is pin 36.

Did you swap your A/T ECM for a M/T ECM? If you moved it but you’re still using the A/T ECM, could be your problem.
 
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