4BTA final adjustment

[driverswanted]

I did not index my start wheel or the top torx screw above the diaphragm.

I'm not sure you can index the full power screw at the side. I don't think it would stop against any reference point that would be repeatable on all VE pumps.

I wish could help you on the star wheel. I did the same thing there. Not sure where I was originally for that setting. If I go back in for another adjustment I will take a dial caliper reading from the top where the diaphragm seats down to the inside flat area of the start wheel. Maybe we can get several others to get distance measurements on that. I also lost my factory setting on that but It's running fine where it is. Did you loose your full power screw original setting?

I talked to the Piers Diesel people about my Bosch 190's and how to adjust them. Maybe you can PM BuschWakr on your smoke issue.

Side note. Will switch to an electric fan today for less system parasitic drag. Have to go to the parts store and look for a suitable T-stat. I don't like how the fluidic fan clutch system is always pulling ice cold air through the radiator. I will also start closing off some of the radiator surface for a faster warmup. MOF I better get off ths computer if I'm going to get that done today.

 

[AJ]

http://www.floscan.com/ModelSelection/marine/models/multifunction/series9000.html

 

[Willys]

That is very cool. Google helps at finding more info on that setup, about 520 bucks, maybe less if you look around a little more...



http://www.boatersland.com/flo9000.html



How its setup:

http://www.lspeedo.com/htm/flowscan-pages/floscan1.html

 

[driverswanted]

I really like their totalizer feature. I could add that very easily to our design.

I may have missed it but it looked to me like the $520 may only be good for a single flow sensor model (trash the competion here :-laf ). Does the Mercury marine engine have a fuel return line that would also require a sensor? If it does have a supply and return sensor then that's not a bad price. I saw the units specifically made for diesels, that I knew had fuel return lines, costing close to $1,000 (Oops trashing the competion again :-laf ) .

I've asked for a quote for their sensor. I was hoping to produce a product that would be priced way under these prices and would utilize a Palm Pilot type PDA to view the information. With a PDA display (that you provide), you would not have to cut another hole in the dash and I wouldn't have to worry about the mounting and housing package logistics. You would just plug the PDA into a com lead coming from a hidden circuit board behind the dash somewhere. I believe you can get a suitable PDA for this for around $100. It would operate something like the Banks Six-Gun "PowerPDA".

 

[driverswanted]

I should either drink more coffee or learn how to spell "competition" before I post these :-laf

 

[Willys]

hehe... do keep us posted if you make these. I think the single one I listed is good for supply/return. I think the dual that they mention is for twin engines, and the 9000 series would be adequate for a diesel? I'm not sure, will have to look at it closer tonight.

 

[driverswanted]

Willys,

I found this at the flowscan site under the 9000 model description;



"Models for single and twin outboard, stern drive and inboard gasoline engines from 50HP to 1000HP. Gas Model Note: Fits EFI gas engines such as Mercruiser and Volvo EFI engines. *Does not fit certain gas EFI engines with fuel return lines that are directly connected to fuel tank such as Crusader and Marine Power EFI engines. "



I'll look at it closer to see if they have a double sensor diesel version.

 

[MMeier]

In California it is a no-no to be going over 65 while towing .

Thought you commies were still at 55 MPH for towing.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

I did not index my start wheel or the top torx screw above the diaphragm.

I'm not sure you can index the full power screw at the side. I don't think it would stop against any reference point that would be repeatable on all VE pumps.

I wish could help you on the star wheel. I did the same thing there. Not sure where I was originally for that setting. If I go back in for another adjustment I will take a dial caliper reading from the top where the diaphragm seats down to the inside flat area of the start wheel. Maybe we can get several others to get distance measurements on that. I also lost my factory setting on that but It's running fine where it is. Did you loose your full power screw original setting?

I talked to the Piers Diesel people about my Bosch 190's and how to adjust them. Maybe you can PM BuschWakr on your smoke issue.

Side note. Will switch to an electric fan today for less system parasitic drag. Have to go to the parts store and look for a suitable T-stat. I don't like how the fluidic fan clutch system is always pulling ice cold air through the radiator. I will also start closing off some of the radiator surface for a faster warmup. MOF I better get off ths computer if I'm going to get that done today.

Cool. . If you search on pirate 4x4.com (when its back up) one of the most badass fans is the Ford Taurus or Lincoln Mark 4. This is what I run, it cools very well. Does suck some juice though. '94 Caprice 140 amp alternator bolts in place of the stock 55 amp alt for what its worth, or any Cs130 or 144 with the ears 180 apart. You need to do some slight wiring changes or buy an adapter to swtich, for what its worth but its easy...



Re the settings, I lost them all unfortunately. The engine/cruiser is running VERY well though, drove about 12 hours this weekend in it and did some off roading in Moab. It got about 20-22 mpg, not as well as I hoped but I was pushing 80 at 15 psi of boost for some time when it could have been much better at 1800 rpms at 6 lbs of course. My settings are very good, still that light haze but nothing crazy and no clouds which is nice... I'll call PDR and see what they say... Andre

 

[driverswanted]

Cool. . If you search on pirate 4x4.com (when its back up) one of the most badass fans is the Ford Taurus or Lincoln Mark 4. This is what I run, it cools very well. Does suck some juice though. '94 Caprice 140 amp alternator bolts in place of the stock 55 amp alt for what its worth, or any Cs130 or 144 with the ears 180 apart. You need to do some slight wiring changes or buy an adapter to swtich, for what its worth but its easy...



Speaking of temperatures, I've been looking at mine more closely since I put the electric fan in. They are never getting above 165 F. Is anyone able to get theirs higher, into a more efficient range? I know I bought a new thermostat from Cummins during the rebuild but the T-stat seems to open at about 125F. Wondering if they had different temperature options on the T-stats and I got a low ranged one.

Anyone have the suggested operating temperature of the 4BT engine? I'm closing off aome of the Dodge radiator but it seems that the T-stat should be doing the temperature regulation somewhat higher.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

It is weird, I have heard all sorts of things about this, people saying the same thing as you... Mine will get right up to 180 and stay there in fact my radiator is a litte small because up the big grades if I downshift and go up to highher RPMs, it will heat up right to 200. A cheapo little t stat that works is a Hayden part # 226203, about $20 at autozone. This is actually what I run but they seem to work about a year before you have to replace it. If I were to do it again I'd use a complete wiring kit from Summit Racing or something like that. I did wire up a pretty sweet diagram...



Here are a couple good threads. .

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=396156&highlight=taurus+fan



Here is the best diagram I have seen. The only better option I have is that an illuminated LED or something to show that the fan is on would be great. Or even an in cab adjustable controller...



#ad

 

[driverswanted]

Nice circuit for on demand operation of the two speeds. That reminds me since I'm blocking off some of the radiator I better put a manual demand switch in mine.

Anyone else getting theirs up to 180-200 F?

 

[driverswanted]

Andre,

I noticed your not using the Harden thermostat as the load carrying device in this circuit. This should make the thermostat last a long time. Are these Haydens failing internally in the filled bulb area or fatigue of the capillary tube?

Got my temperature up higher with the front of the radiator covered somewhat. Still don't like doing it this way. I'm going to call Cummins to see if there are other temperature ranged T-stats. I'm also moving one of my extra system monitor temperature sensors into the engine oil to see what temps that goes up to compared to the coolant.

The electronic grid control circuit is almost done. Does anyone know what the grid "outside temperature" vs. on-state period is after the pre-heat period? I've lost my Dodge factory manual that covers this. I seemed to recall that the was a on-state change at 59F to 32F, 32F to 0F and 0F and below.

 

[TKingsbury]

Thought you commies were still at 55 MPH for towing.

Yes, we are. But you are pretty safe up to 65, any faster and you're flirting with getting stopped. This of course depends on how fast everyone else is going. It's never good to be the fastest thing on the road when you have a trailer on, no matter what the speed limit.

Travis. .

 

[driverswanted]

MPG monitor update

Getting closer to finding an economical flow sensor. Have one sensor at $176 with analog output. I'm trying to find the mechanical turbine section alone so I can add the optical components and save on the cost. It would be a lot cheaper to just add optical sensors and work with the frequency output instead of these analog output units at $176. I have contacted an automotive sensor manufacturer to see what the big three are using for fuel monitoring supply and return type systems.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

That is exactly why I designed it that way, not to put a load on the thermostat, and as a result I have had it last longer (1 year instead of months) and it works but needs a tap once in a while to get it to kick in. I'll honestly probably just buy another one for now, they are only $20 or so...



I would love to more about your grid heater now that its cold. That is how I blew my head gasket, with ether because of no cold start system. Barely starting now at about 15-20*F outside. I did up WD40 once which seems to work but not as powerful as ether of course... Nor as damaging of course either. I would really like a setup like yours some day!

Andre,

I noticed your not using the Harden thermostat as the load carrying device in this circuit. This should make the thermostat last a long time. Are these Haydens failing internally in the filled bulb area or fatigue of the capillary tube?

Got my temperature up higher with the front of the radiator covered somewhat. Still don't like doing it this way. I'm going to call Cummins to see if there are other temperature ranged T-stats. I'm also moving one of my extra system monitor temperature sensors into the engine oil to see what temps that goes up to compared to the coolant.

The electronic grid control circuit is almost done. Does anyone know what the grid "outside temperature" vs. on-state period is after the pre-heat period? I've lost my Dodge factory manual that covers this. I seemed to recall that the was a on-state change at 59F to 32F, 32F to 0F and 0F and below.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Getting closer to finding an economical flow sensor. Have one sensor at $176 with analog output. I'm trying to find the mechanical turbine section alone so I can add the optical components and save on the cost. It would be a lot cheaper to just add optical sensors and work with the frequency output instead of these analog output units at $176. I have contacted an automotive sensor manufacturer to see what the big three are using for fuel monitoring supply and return type systems.

Awesome keep us posted...

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

also one more note, a good parts store will carry 40 amp inline normal size blade fuses. I started blowing 30 amp fuses but the 40 amps are fine, for what its worth...

 

[driverswanted]

Heater grid circuit going in

Da bro has the heater grid circuit all but done. We will install it this Friday or Saturday. NASA would be proud to have designed this circuit. Hope it don't fail. Maybe I should have picked a more reliable comparison. I saw it Sunday just before heading off to the Browns game. He put in several switches and 4 LEDs. Will describe this further later. It also logs the activity for trouble-shooting or tweaking the on state points and can be read out on a PALM pilot serial connection that he can plug into the board at any time.

We also had a chance to go over the future fuel flow meter design and how it should look simular to the Banks controller/monitor. We should have both numeric and bar graph displays on the PALM Pilot so you can see instantaneous changes in fuel consumption and also averages from your last tank fill-up (or whenever you reset the averaging totalizer).

 

[Willys]

That is awesome. With the bar graph display, will you be able to sync it with a gps and compare instantaneous mileage against your location/terrain traveled? It would be fun to do, probably not much practicle point though...



I'm asking Santa for a PDA and Delorme earthmate for Christmas.