'92 KDP Help

[ESteiger]

So im a second gen owner that just sold it and upgraded to a first gen which i am loving so far. The rig has 241K on it and runs better than my second gen did. I was told by the owner that as far as he knew the KDP had never been tabbed and i can tell that the stock case is still there. So im thinking im going to jump in there and tab the sucker. any tips or links to doing this on a first gen? thanks

 

[Greenleaf]

The stock case? I don't know what you refer to but no, there is no trick. Be sure to get the parts like the lock-tite, the crank seal and the cover gasket. Be real good idea to replace the water pump if it hasn't. Hoses etc.



Make a tab or roll the bore back into itself to "stake" the aluminum bore around the dowel pin. I love the tab, but I make them myself here at the shop. I have the material etc. on hand, so... ... ... ... .



It's a good idea to use a slightly longer cap screw in place of the shorter one to secure the tab.



Remove the five case to block cap screw too. Clean the holes out with brake parts cleaner and blow them dry. Do same for the bolts (cap screws) and lock-tite them in. There are two on the cam you need to do. The third one on the cam retainer won't come out. Make sure it is tight. May need to modify an open end 10 mil wrench for this one. (light bend)



I can't think of anything else at the present.



The jmore work you do now, the less you do later. Take care of things like pressure washing off the radiator and the charge air cooler if you have one. Blow out that a/c condensor too. Etc. Etc. Etc.

 

[ESteiger]

thanks a lot i appreciate it. i fabbed up a tap im fairly confident should work, im going to begin work as soon as the rain stops... soon i hope, im nervous everyday i drive the rig

 

[tugboatphil]

ES, here is a previous thread by MadMax that has some really great close up pics of the tab and gear case area. It's just a really great source for seeing many of the innards of our engine. Thanks, Sam!

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...993/201280-6bt-1993-12v-what-s-look-like.html

 

[ESteiger]

thanks that helps a lot! now does anyone know anything about putting an aftermarket tach in?

 

[dpuckett]

If you go wtih ISSPRO, they hook rigth up. If the tach is flat faced, you'll need the $40 adaptor harness; if curved/ convex face, it should wire right up, no adaptor needed.



AUtometer has one that wires up to the alternator somehow.



DP

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

TST Products offers a complete kit to tab your dowel pin. Be sure to remove the four mounting bolts that you can reach directly. Two are behind “windows” in the cam gear, one is next to the dowel pin, and one is above the gear-driven oil pump. The fifth is below the two behind the cam gear and also behind the gear, but offset outwards so you will have to heat and bend an open-end 10 mm wrench so it can reach in there and tighten that bolt. The other four will get cleaned with solvent, as will the holes (I recommend Mopar non chlorinated brake cleaner as it evaporates much better than other brands). Then, blue Loctite the bolts and torque to 18-22 ft lb. Factory recommendation is 18, but I like a bit more. On the First Generation Turbo diesels, and second Generations up to 1996, there is no sealer on the threads and the bolts can vibrate out. If the washer head gets between gear teeth, you can break the block, etc. So, this problem can be much worse than the dowel pin that is too big to get between teeth and just breaks the gear case.

 

[PToombs]

Joe, I don't think it sounded any better than when Greenleaf said it.



:-laf :-laf

 

[Greenleaf]

I was thinking the same, but "what the heck". He is the TDR writer, so... ... ... .....

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I wouldn't worry every time you drive it... it's a VE pump. KDP occurances are probably 1/100 compared to P-pump trucks

 

[JLEONARD]

He is the TDR writer, so

He must be from the department of redundancy department:-laf:-laf

 

[Ncostello]

After making sure its driven in all the way, all I've ever done is carefully peen the bore opening edges and stake the bore itself in a couple spots. You can also use green loctite for extra insurance once you clean everything well. I can't see how the pin could ever come out this way. Unless it has gun powder behind it. No tab or jig necessary.



Remove, clean and loctite all the timing case bolts. Except the one behind the cam gear. Just bend a thin 10mm wrench and make sure its good and tight.



New crank seal, new cover gasket and you're in business. No sweat.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

There are only two--not 3--bolts on the cam retainer. If you can remove the fifth case bolt with the cam gear in place, show me how. I agree that some of what was posted would work fine, but I wanted to put the steps in one place, accurately. For that matter, this whole thread is redundant. It has been covered numerous times on the forum and in the magazine.