abs proportioning valve

[kelly w]

Does anybody know where i could find an abs proportioning valve for a 91' dodge 1 ton. Its located on the frame on the drivers side right above the rear axle. The part # is R2004695. The local dodge dealer said that they were out and that the warehouse was out and they had no idea when they would be able to get one. Thanks, Kelly

 

[bgilbert]

I was quoted $300 a few years ago. I gotta ask, why do you think yours is bad?

 

[Greenleaf]

PM First Gen (James) and ask him how he gets along with out one. He likes it and sounded very simple to do.



-S

 

[Paychk]

Any parts store should be able to get re-man ABS valves.

 

[Philip]

Most of us that have problems with the valve itself just bypass with new brake lines and forget about it.



The ABs is a stand alone system. The controller box is located behind the glove box. When you bypass the valve unhook the controller to stop the annoying warning lights on the dash.



Mine was unhooked when I got my truck. I do not plan on making that sytems operational agin. I have been in one 1st gen when the system worked properly. When the system kicked in the pedal went to the floor and we gained speed. Which is bad when you need full brakes "now".

 

[frijoli]

When the system kicked in the pedal went to the floor and we gained speed. Which is bad when you need full brakes "now".

How may I ask is that possible? That was rhetorical, it isn't possible.

It feels like your gaining speed, but what's really happening is you are not decelerating as rapidly as you were a split second earlier.



Sorry couldn't help myself.

Clay

 

[Philip]

How may I ask is that possible

When the ABS kicked in the pedal hit the floor. It droped almost all braking effort. When your in the middle of a panic stop on account of a idot. Then is not the time to loose any braking.



This truck was a 92 W250. It was 6 months old at the time. Not to long afterwards the controller was unhooked.

 

[1stgen4evr]

abs

I mentioned this a few weeks ago. I did away with the system all together. Some refer to this as slash and burn. Well everyone is entitled to their opinion and mine is that you are better off without the system on the truck. Check the archives and you will find that a good many have had scary incidents with their ABS. It is a very poor system and if you know how to drive the truck, you can do a good job of being the controller by how you apply the brake(s). Your brain is probably at least a hundred times faster than the controler on the system.



The reason I finally did away with mine was an incident where I slid through an intersection (complete with red light) somewhat sideways with a trailer pushing me along and only front brakes working. To make matters worse, I almost took the side off a patrol car in the process. When I got the whole thing stopped, he gave me a thumbs up and cruised on by. I went straight to a lift and checked to see what was need to eliminate the crappy system. Two fifty cent brass fittings that match the different metal lines at the valve that then fit one another and bleeding was all that was involved. I have the best brakes on that truck it has ever had. No light, no bull. Should the need arise, I can lock her down in a four wheel slide, and that ain't against the law anywhere. It is against the law to smack someone from the rear, whatever the reason. I am on the road around 80k miles a year and seems like there is someone fairly often that bumbles out in front of me. I am reasonable sure that earlier problems with my front rotors warping (more than once) was the direct result of poor rear brake function and that had cost a fair amount over the years. By the way, the previous owner had spent 1800 dollars at the dealer to make the brakes work.



So, you pays your money and you takes your choice, as they say at the carnival. That was my choice. Further, it has been documented in national publications that the abs system can be dangerous and has been the CAUSE of accidents where deaths were incurred.



First gen forever and ABS free as well.

James



Edit: Unhooking the controller will not complete the job. The truck mentioned was already 'unhooked' and still the problem of poor rear brakes.

 

[Paychk]

James

You are right about the ABS controller; if you want to by-pass it; the best way is hydraulically with the fittings you describe. There is an accumulator valve on the controller. If it is stuck open, then the brake pressure doesn't make it to the rear brakes. All it does is compress the accumulator spring.

 

[gotchili]

I also have trouble with my rear brakes locking up when empty and the truck is cold or wet. Mine is a 2000, can I also disconnect the rear ABSthe same way?

 

[Philip]

I also disconnect the rear ABSthe same way

Most likely not. Your ABS system goes threw the Dodge ECM. Our system is a stand alone. You would most likely throw all sorts of error codes if you tried.



Kelly the fitting you asked about is looking like a lost item at Case500'D's place. He hasn't found that vavle yet. It might have been thrown away. He is still looking.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Mine should be off in the next week or so let me see a pic of what ya need.

 

[DBF]

<snip>



The reason I finally did away with mine was an incident where I slid through an intersection (complete with red light) somewhat sideways with a trailer pushing me along and only front brakes working. To make matters worse, I almost took the side off a patrol car in the process. When I got the whole thing stopped, he gave me a thumbs up and cruised on by. I went straight to a lift and checked to see what was need to eliminate the crappy system. Two fifty cent brass fittings that match the different metal lines at the valve that then fit one another and bleeding was all that was involved. I have the best brakes on that truck it has ever had. No light, no bull. Should the need arise, I can lock her down in a four wheel slide, and that ain't against the law anywhere. It is against the law to smack someone from the rear, whatever the reason. I am on the road around 80k miles a year and seems like there is someone fairly often that bumbles out in front of me. I am reasonable sure that earlier problems with my front rotors warping (more than once) was the direct result of poor rear brake function and that had cost a fair amount over the years. By the way, the previous owner had spent 1800 dollars at the dealer to make the brakes work.

Now I think I understand what happened the day I went across two really rough railroad tracks followed immediately by a light that turned red - I locked the fronts and the trailer brakes didn't come on quickly enough. The rears didn't seem to help (due to bouncing?) and I slid into the intersection.



Is this a possibility? Can the function of this thing be expressed in a way I can understand it - like:

Lightly loaded, little rear braking

Heavily loaded, lots of rear braking



or sumsuch?



Tx, DBF

 

[TKingsbury]

Personally, I have too much rear brake period. It is much better when loaded since there is lots more weight on the rear. The worst part about the ABS is it seems to work only when it wants to. My ABS would work on dry pavement, but not usually on wet. WTF???? . This system simply doesn't have enough brain power to work right. Our system is the Atari 2600 of ABS.

Travis. .

 

[csnider]

Parts

I need to know which fittings I'd need to do this abs valve bypass proceedure.

could someone helpme out with a parts list or picture?. . Thanks for your time.

Chuck

 

[1stgen4evr]

bypass fittings

I am not where I can get the numbers but will later. Here is the gist of what I did. The lines that go into the ABS are two different sizes. I went to the NAPA and searched the brass fittings till I found one that was correct for each of the metal lines (female inverted flare) and that also had the correct threads (one male and one female in 1/8 pipe thread) on the other end that would screw into each other. Bend the lines so that they line up and tighten all that together. Bleed the rear brakes and test drive. If your truck has been defficient with the rear binders, you will be much impressed.



I drove the truck that I did this to today on a delivery. It would be worth repeating that I have the best brakes ever since doing this. Three times in the 800 miles, some yahoo made me stand on the brakes. I just love the interstate system and halfast drivers.



For anyone who wants to stay original with the ABS, maybe it would be a good idea to tatoo your ss# on your arm.



I don't have the digital camera either but will try to get that later.



James

 

[mysteryman]

abs

Take the valve off and throw it away... they never worked properly anyway. .

spilce the line straight threw... Then unplug the computer behind the glove box to get the check brake light to go out... .



When I was at Chry. we called them the "anti stop valve" LOL

Does anybody know where i could find an abs proportioning valve for a 91' dodge 1 ton. Its located on the frame on the drivers side right above the rear axle. The part # is R2004695. The local dodge dealer said that they were out and that the warehouse was out and they had no idea when they would be able to get one. Thanks, Kelly

 

[1stgen4evr]

fittings

Well I have a picture and will try to post that. I am sure that I can post the numbers for the NAPA fittings.



The fittings are:

202 x 5

252 x 3



I am pretty sure that these are weather head numbers.



OK, I tried the pic and got an error that the file was too large. If anyone wants the picture, PM with your email address and I will forward that.



James

 

[Philip]

I'll cut that pic down to size and post it.



-- email address removed --

 

[Philip]

Here is the pic.