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abs proportioning valve

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FINALLY.... A Hardened output shaft!!!

Ultra Heavy Duty Tie Rod

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The really bad thing is, the car companies put junk like this on, because most people can't drive! I myself, like to be the only thing thinking, that is controling the truck. When I want fuel, I want fuel, when I want some brake, I want some brake, and when I need all the brakes, I want them all, NOW!!



Good luck with your search. I too have experianced the phenomonon of lots of brake pressure, and about the time you think you're ok, the truck speeds up. :eek:



Michael
 
What happens if you simply unhook the controller and leave the proportioning valve? My brake light went out and braking seems normal. Are there unwanted consequences of leaving the valve in place?
 
Jimnance-It's really not that hard to do and well worth it.

The ABS, if not hydrauically unhooked, is just a killer waiting to strike.

Mine is happily bypassed.



KO
 
When I did mine the brake lines looked bad so I changed them front to rear. The good thing was, no adapters needed, just run the line direct to the hose. It is the same thread. The truck stops awesome now. Thanks James!
 
PToombs said:
When I did mine the brake lines looked bad so I changed them front to rear. The good thing was, no adapters needed, just run the line direct to the hose. It is the same thread. The truck stops awesome now. Thanks James!



So you just removed the valve and the steel line jumping from it to the rubber hose and then connected the hose to the hardline comming from the MC?



Sounds like the easiest solution. Will have to look and see how much slack is in the hose on a W series.
 
I removed this "anti stop valve" recently and it made a huge improvement. I borrowed a nice flaring tool and went directly to the rubber line. Unplugged the ABS comp and was done. Works well.



Andrew
 
ARhine said:
So you just removed the valve and the steel line jumping from it to the rubber hose and then connected the hose to the hardline comming from the MC?



Sounds like the easiest solution. Will have to look and see how much slack is in the hose on a W series.



Pretty much, yeah! I was replacing the line, so I figured extra to the hose. You could buy a 10 or 20 inch piece to replace the valve.
 
Hello all,

first post here :)



I have a 93 D250 and my ABS light came on. Here is a brief history. This past Friday we had lots of rain and I drove the truck home with no ABS light, Monday morning on the way to work the ABS light came on, braking was just fine. On the way home on Monday the ABS light stayed off. So I figured a little water or something, however on the way to work today the ABS lamp came on. So I need help to help find this problem, according to the Dodge Service Manual I can count the time ABS Blinks to narrow the error, however I have no idea where to find the RWAL Diagnostic connector. I must ground the RWAL Diagnostic Connector to get the ABS light to flash. Any information will be greatly appreciated!



Thanks in Advance
 
BHerring- welcome to the TDR. The information in this thread alone will be worth the membership fee. PToombs just got a Diagnostic Manual. Not sure he has it in his hands yet, as he got it on ebay. (another one just went for almost $100 last week :eek: ). If you want to keep the RWAL, I'm sure someone has info on getting it up to snuff. But, a former engineer from Chrysler said they were junk back in the day.....



Here is where you can get NAPA part numbers to bypass the RWAL uit entirely.



Unplugging the controller behind the dash is a band-aid. I got my RWAL bypassed at SOP4, and had to relearn how to stop the beast. I locked up the tires at the end of Jermey's driveway for some reason.....



Daniel
 
DP... and anyone else. Been having both lights come on at me when I'm stopped at a light... usually when outside temp is below say 65*. Been thinking its a vacuum booster or pump problem. . open to your opinions! :)
 
I locked up the tires at the end of Jeremy's driveway for some reason.....



Daniel



AH HA! I wondered if you noticed anything different! Now the truth comes out! (i also wondered about that big cloud of dust when i left :D )

:-laf :-laf



MM, just unhook the wires for the vacuum sensor. It's on the fender. This will tell if you have low boost. If no light, put a gauge on it. I don't think you'll get both lights for vacuum problems though.

Does it do it without your foot on the brake? Split in the diaphragm that opens when on it?
 
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I bet the booster is bad. Tap in a guage and see what happens when you step on it. Without the engine running, it should go down a little and stop. If the diaphragm is bad, the vacuum will go to 0. Could try it running too. Should be the same results, but the pump might keep a little vacuum on it.
 
I cleaned the speed sensor and get the same error, so now I guess I am going to do what everybody else has done and just remove the ABS valve and re-learn how to brake :)
 
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