AC affected by clutch?

[EBurgess]

AC will blow normal real cold but it will taper off after about five minutes of driving. What is strange is if I push in the clutch it will go cold again. Doesn't make any sense. Before I have a tech look at it just wondering if anybody has a clue.

 

[Motorhead]

Your charge on the AC needs to be checked first. The AC is NOT in any way controlled by the engine/transmission clutch.

 

[GCroyle]

Motorhead,

Aw com'on. When you push the CLUTCH pedal down, the excess clutch system pressure is auto-hyper-diverted to the AC CLUTCH and the increased clamping force this combined with the coefficient of friction of the wimpy OEM friction material being what ever it is gets the extra oomph to prevent slippage and voila cold vents. This of course is paraphrased from the YouTube by the Turbo Encabulator presenter it's gotta be true.

Blame the pandemic. I did.

Gary

 

[Motorhead]

Gary, It caught me too early in the morning

 

[Tuesdak]

Engine slows down if you push the clutch in. First guess is the compressor clutch is slipping and the slower RPM allows it to catch and hold. Second guess is it's low on R134a.

A quick visual inspection of the compressor clutch for burnt paint and/or a broken drive strap is in order. OEM compressors by Sanden are cheaper direct from them here: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/sanden-direct-ac-compressors-for-1996-2005.264977/


@GCroyle may be more correct than intended.

 

[EBurgess]

Engine slows down if you push the clutch in. First guess is the compressor clutch is slipping and the slower RPM allows it to catch and hold. Second guess is it's low on R134a.

A quick visual inspection of the compressor clutch for burnt paint and/or a broken drive strap is in order. OEM compressors by Sanden are cheaper direct from them here: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/sanden-direct-ac-compressors-for-1996-2005.264977/


@GCroyle may be more correct than intended.

Thanks- I suspected that it had to do with compressor clutch. Original compressor with 306K on it. It probably doesn't owe me anything. From the quickie autoparts store AC guage the R134a level appears correct. Just wanted to get an idea of what a repair should/could entail before I get a tech to give me an estimate.

 

[Motorhead]

Take some seasoned advice...... If you end up replacing your compressor, BUY NEW, not rebuilt.
I just did a complete AC restoration on a 2006 and parts at my cost were $600. New compressor, new condenser, new orifice tube, new receiver drier, complete flush of all other components, one hour vacuum down, 30 ounces of R143a and 7.5 ounces Pag46 oil. I charged only $400 labor. Job is usually worth $1500-$1800.
You did good on the compressor. I think you have the DENSO compressor. The 2006 and my 2007, the systems crapped out at 75-90K miles. We have the HALLA compressor, made in South Korea.

To see if your compressor is weak, you need to take it to an AC shop and have them put it on a set of gauges. The Tech needs to see the high side pressures.