Air bleed proceedure after installing fuel pressure gague?

[TomB]

A few questions for those of you who have installed fuel pressure gagues. What did you use to remove the internals on the Schrader valve? Did you remove the entire test port and banjo bolt from the fuel lines? How much fuel leakage can I expect when I remove these parts, and is it under pressure if the engine is cold and has been sitting overnight? How did you air bleed the lines after removing the valve? Would it help fuel flow if I drilled out the passage holes in the banjo bolts, and if so, what size drill did you use? Are the copper washers on the banjo bolts re-usable? Planning to install gauge this weekend and don't want any surprises! Tom

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2000 Qc LWB ETC 6Sp 3:54 LSD, + all the options except leather, BD Stage ll Injectors,Edge EZ, Psychotty& K&N,
BD E-Brake with Shifter Control, ISSPRO EGT and Boost Gauges, Transfer Flow 50 Gal. Alum. Fuel Tank, Line X
16K Hijacker Double Rocker, Pulling a 35Ft. triple slide Spinnaker 5vr.
1996 Viper GTS
Suzuki DRZ400
1100 Yamaha Cruiser

 

[Neal Cassady]

TomB,

I used a regular schrader valve tool, the one you would use for a valve stem on a tire.

Just remove the cap and remove the valve stem. I put mine on the VP44 test port, worked fine.

Not much pressure or leakage, I did mine when the truck was cold. Have a small container ready to catch the drips if you wish.

I ran the lift pump once like you would after a filter change after I installed the sending unit.

Fuel will work its way into the line. I didn't bleed mine when I installed it, when I removed it yeterday the line had quite a bit of fuel in it.

Dave



[This message has been edited by Dave D (edited 05-16-2001). ]

 

[TKilgore]

Like Dave, I installed mine on the VP44 test port and it went as he stated (little drip and no pressure just held a rag under the port). As for bleeding, the manual says thats only if you break open a high pressure line like installing injectors. Tom