Alaska trip in a cab-over-camper

[DBF]

Carcross sounds very interesting. They probably have a lot of antiques, which is my big downfall.

Hyder on the way back is a must as we want to see grizzlies fishing for salmon in the river, so we will spend a couple of days there. Anything else to do or see in Hyder? Thanks again Pete.

I see I forgot to address the Hyder question in my previous reply. Hyder AK is right next to Stewart BC. On the Hyder side of the line is the Fish Creek bear-watching station. Farther out Fish Creek Road, it begins climbing into the mountains alongside the Salmon Glacier. There are many excellent places to take pictures. At one spot near the top, there's a large pullout area for a really nice scene of the glacier, but if you turn around and go across the road into the rocks, you enter an alpine meadow with little pools, flowers, mosses, and other things that also make for fine pictures.



Continuing north on the road and going slightly downhill now, you come to the end at the site of the former Granduc mine's stamp mill, another impressive site with its own glacier. Ore was sent 11 miles thru tunnels to this place and stamped (separating rock from mineral) with the enriched result being trucked down this road to Stewart for shipment to Washington for final processing.



Have one breakfast at the Wildflour cafe in Hyder. Outstanding. There are a couple of RV parks on the Hyder side, one on Fish Creek Road that looks ok. We stayed in Stewart at the Bear River RV Park.



On the Stewart side, there's small museum that's pretty interesting and a walking tour that's nice.



Stewart has been going downhill due to lack of work. There's still some gold mining going on, but not much. Dinner at the Bitter Creek Cafe is nice.



DBF

 

[Grizzly]

DBF, Thank you for all the good information you gave me. I'm still digesting it and pouring over maps and the web site: Alaskafjorlines.com . Lot of valuable information there. We are considering taking the catamaran from Skagway to Jeneau and stay in Jeneau only one day as you suggested. I also like the idea of taking the ferry from Haines to Skagway on the way back and bypass Whitehorse. It's going to be a fun trip.

Pete, You right, it's not worth ferrying the truck and camper to Jeneau and back. These are the things I need to know to make the experience that much better. That's why I appreciate your advice as well as DBF and everyone else's. I'm anxious to hear from your co-worker with relatives in Jeneau. Have fun skiing.

Have either one of you been to Chicken and Dawson City? I was told, before my last trip, that they were very interesting places to see.

 

[dewdo]

Alaska trip

I have made two trips and had the windshield broken both times. Also had a broken headlight. Had two flats. (but they were on older tires) I ran into a fellow and his wife that were coming down from Alaska and I noticed a piece of plywood over the window in front of the camper. I talked with him and he said it was poureing down rain and he was trying to get out of it and continued to drive. When he stopped for the night the camper was full of water and glass from the camper front window. He also had a crack in a side window. He had to stay in hotels on his return from Chicken back to NJ. I always put a piece of lexan over the front window when I go up there and I also cover the headlights and use a bug screen on the radiator.



If my health improves I would like to make another trip this summer. We love to go up in July and stay until Sept. to catch the sockeye run up the Kenai just out of Soldotna. Nice campground in Soldotna but no hookups. The Fred Meyers store ther allows overnight stay and have water and a blackwater dump on the side of the parking lot.



I think you will enjoy the trip just as much as the destination. If you are the agressive type Go through Dawson City, take the ferry across the Yukon and and take the Top Of The World Highway. The speed limit on the Top Of World Highway is 35 mph but the trucks traveling it go about 80. It's unpaved and when one of those trucks go by the rocks will fly like shrapnel. Be sure to stop for lunch at the Chicken Cafe, bar, grocery store and other merchandise in Chicken.



Have fun and expect some trouble. That way you will be overjoyed if you don't have any and will want to go back soon.



Dewdo from the other Washington

 

[Grizzly]

I have made two trips and had the windshield broken both times. Also had a broken headlight. Had two flats. (but they were on older tires) I ran into a fellow and his wife that were coming down from Alaska and I noticed a piece of plywood over the window in front of the camper. I talked with him and he said it was poureing down rain and he was trying to get out of it and continued to drive. When he stopped for the night the camper was full of water and glass from the camper front window. He also had a crack in a side window. He had to stay in hotels on his return from Chicken back to NJ. I always put a piece of lexan over the front window when I go up there and I also cover the headlights and use a bug screen on the radiator.



If my health improves I would like to make another trip this summer. We love to go up in July and stay until Sept. to catch the sockeye run up the Kenai just out of Soldotna. Nice campground in Soldotna but no hookups. The Fred Meyers store ther allows overnight stay and have water and a blackwater dump on the side of the parking lot.



I think you will enjoy the trip just as much as the destination. If you are the agressive type Go through Dawson City, take the ferry across the Yukon and and take the Top Of The World Highway. The speed limit on the Top Of World Highway is 35 mph but the trucks traveling it go about 80. It's unpaved and when one of those trucks go by the rocks will fly like shrapnel. Be sure to stop for lunch at the Chicken Cafe, bar, grocery store and other merchandise in Chicken.



Have fun and expect some trouble. That way you will be overjoyed if you don't have any and will want to go back soon.



Dewdo from the other Washington

When did you make your two trips to Alaska? I've been there ones in 95 and I did have a 1/4" grid screen on my grill guard. I will do the same on the this trip. My question was should I cover the camper overhead window? I have been told by many that it is not necessary now because the roads have been greatly improved. I have been thinking about going through Dawson City and Chicken. Are they worth going to? Is that the only area I would need the gravel protection for?

 

[DBF]

Have either one of you been to Chicken and Dawson City? I was told, before my last trip, that they were very interesting places to see.

We've gone into Alaska that way three times now, but we might forego it next time. Dawson City and surroundings is a great stay. Several campgrounds, including one right downtown.



Go out to Bonanza Creek (where the '98 Gold Rush started in '96) and see where it began. There's a gold dredge you can tour. Continue on the Goldfields loop road up and around King Solomon Dome to see the lay of the land and a few still-operating mines (don't go onto private property, they're pretty touchy).



Also go to the top of Midnight Dome and get the great view of the two rivers.



Lots of good places to shop, a good grocery store, banks, all the amenities.



Link: http://www.tourdawsoncity.com/



To get to the Top Of The World highway one takes the George M. Black ferry across the Yukon. The lineup in the morning can get quite long, since it's a small ferry. Last year we lined up at 9:30 and crossed at noon. Then the road goes uphill continuously until it's on top of the ridge. Then it runs westward along the top of the ridge until you reach the Alaska border. The road in Canada is fair to poor. Then you start downhill along the sides of hills till you reach Chicken.



Links:

http://www.chickenalaska.com/chicken/index.html

http://www.chickenak.com/



We prefer the place at the second link, but the other one is a hoot, too.



After Chicken, you go south and west till you get to the Alaska Hwy ten miles east of Tok, AK. Tok has hundreds of camper spaces and is the common stopping place on the way into and out of Alaska.



This road can be slow going if you get behind a "caravan" of motorhomes that are creeping along. Patience is needed then. Or pull off & take pictures - gorgeous scenery - you can see range after range of hills.



"dewdo" had some really bad luck. I've had a windshield chipped to where I replaced it after the third trip, but never broken a window or had a flat or busted a headlight. Just luck.



Regards, DBF

 

[EEdmondson]

Noboby has mentioned Denali N. P. That was the highlight of my trip in 1981. Spent 5 days there. One day we saw 13 grizzlies! If you're interested in wildlife, Denali is the place. Also, I never saw the whole mountain. It doesn't show itself very often.



Maybe I don't remember right, but I thought Chicken was a shack or two. Dawson City was a typical historic tourist town with dance hall girl shows, etc. We didn't have time for that as we were for the scenery and wildlife. Next time I go I will stop and have a dark ale.

 

[EEdmondson]

Grizz, don't forget to check the ferry prices for the length and height of your rig. My friend's 28" Alpenlite Aspen bumper pull http://www.wrv.com/html/alpenlite_aspen_about.html makes for a very long ($$$) rig on the ferry. It also sits very low which wouldn't be good for rough roads and steep ferry ramps. What to do... rent a class C?

 

[Speedo]

Those frost heaves have been fixed, but there are always new ones. They get attention fairly soon.



IMHO, the worst paved road is fifty miles of the Tok cutoff from Mentasta Pass to near Chistochina, the result of an earthquake three years ago. The worst non-paved road must be a toss-up between the old Denali Highway and the Elliot Highway out toward Manley Hot Springs.



DBF

Here's a pic of the Tok cutoff right after the earthquake, the area around Mentasta sits on the fault and got the worst of the 'quake. It was a 7. 9 on the Richter scale. You would find it hard to find any of the damage there now.



Gus

 

[DBF]

The circumstance we recall fondly was the time in 2001 when the Alaska Hwy was closed for three days.



The world's largest culvert had collapsed at Irons Creek BC. The BC roads people closed the road at each campground all the way back to Dawson Creek, so the people would be forced into campgrounds where they were, rather than everyone bunching up at the campground closest to the break.



They called in an emergency response firm from Grande Prairie AB who sent up two trucks, each towing a 70-foot box girder with a roadbed on top. At the scene, a crane lifted the two into place and locked them end-to-end to make a one-way road. Then people could get going again.



We were forced into a small area of campground with two other 5ers (from AB) and four truck campers (from ON). It didn't take 15 minutes to get all the picnic tables next to each other and put out the drinking materials. One guy got out his guitar, another his fiddle, a lady brought out an electronic zither, and we started to party. Great time.



The next day, the male half of a couple who were staying in the motel asked the owner if he could get a cupcake with a candle so they could celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary. Well, they baked up a great cake, one of the guests was a cake decorator, the band came out and played and we all wished them their anniversary. I sent pictures to them later and they said it was the most beautiful celebration they'd had.



So, things happen, and we make the best of them.



DBF

 

[dewdo]

I would put a piece of plexiglass over the front window of the camper. Last time I was there was about two years ago and a car on a paved road kicked up a rock and cracked the windshield. On the Top Of The World Highway there were two double semi's coming at me and all I could do was pull as far over as I could and still got a rock that broke both inside and outside of the windshield so if I had been driving at the posted speed the rock would have come through and hit my wife in the head. The last time over that road it was still unpaved and had just as many rocks. I put the 1/4 " screen over the radiator as well as window screen so I could remove the bugs easily. I would get headlight covers as well. You see a lot of cars running around with only one headlight. Most of the Alaska highway is paved, but you will find a lot of work going on the frost heaves. Watch out for them. They can almost get you airborne. Just keep an eye out on the fog line. If you see it looking squiggly up ahead you will find that is a frost heave. Both times I came back by the Cassiar Highway because that is the road where you can see a lot of wild life. I take the Hyder turn off and go up to fish creek and you will most likely see the grizzly bears feeding on salmon going up the creek. It is a place where you can come within 20 or 30 feet of a Grizzly and not have to worry too much. They are more concerned on eating the stomachs out of the spawning salmon than people. Also there is a ranger there with big cans of bear spray if they decide to come up the bank at someone. The road is rough in places but to us it was worth it. Have a good trip.



Dewdo from the other Washington

 

[Mr.Goat]

Mr. Grizzly

In reguards to Chicken, I think Edmondson has the right view, theres not much there. The main establishment offers travelers the basics, including touristy trinkets with a couple big fancy outhouses out back. Thats it!!! The big attraction about Chicken is it's unique name and the fact if your heading from Dawson to Tok, your through the majority of the Top of the World Hwy when you hit chicken.

Like I said in a previous post the road can be dusty, and yes stones my get tossed in the air. My biggest concern was the large motor coaches driven by folks who clearly were unexperienced in driving anything that big and had absolutely no sense of judging distance in the terms of how much space they needed for there vehicle. They therefore drove down the middle of road which leaves you with not much.

My opinion about the gravel protection devices on the front of the vehicles is to forget it!! Not worth the effort and expense!! The Alaska highway is not the precarious trek into the wilds it used to be. Obviously Mr. Dewdo had some back luck in this regard. A gravel road is gravel whether it is in Alaska/Yukon or where ever back home is. Folks don't baricade off the fronts of there vehilces at home when they jaunt down the gravel back roads. Travel on gravel roads presents a risk to your windshield and paint job if one is not preapared to take the risk stay at home in the big city were the boys can vandilize your vehicle while your shopping at the mall. It was a daily source of amusement to me to see the amount of ABS plumbing pipe that was wasted in making these things, none of which did anything to save a windshield. The one caution I would say regarding the roads is to watch for the frost heaves on the paved roads. You may,can and will loose control of, and or cause under carriage damage to your rig if you are going to fast. The worst section is from Tok to Destruction Bay, and the Canadian section is the worst.



Dawson City: The most northernly tourist trap in Canada bar none!! But worth the visit none the less. There's only two main sources of income for the economy gold and tourisum, the latter being the most lucrative for most.

If Mrs. Grizzly likes gold jewelry your Visa card is in for some major exercise here. But they have custom shops offering very unique pieces and they will also custom make a piece for you. I bought a few pieces to give to somebody I haven't even met yet!

Campgrounds are numerous. I stayed at the one right in town just because it was extremely convenient. The old part of Dawson is small enough you can walk anywhere in town from the camp ground in 10min. The camp ground has absolutely no appealing atmosphere, and your packed in like in a Walmart parking lot on the Saturday before Christmas. And it's expensive. But it's nice to be staying were the action is. And your only sleeping there you spend all your time walking around in town.

The street's are dirt with wooden boardwalks. Grants from the Canadian government have helped restore alot of the old buildings but there are still many more to be done. Everything is restored to the gold rush day's look. One hotel offers the can/can show and has a small casino. At another you join the Sour Toe club by drinking a shot of whisky that has a severed human toe in the glass. The toe must touch your lips while your drinking the shot. When you get the glass up to your lips you can't see the toe anyways, trick is not to open your mouth to wide or you might get protein with your whisky!!! I can't remember the name of the hotel and I stayed there when coming off the Snake River trip.

Like DBF says a jaunt out the Bonanza Creek road to see Dredge #4 is worth the effort.

I took the ferry across the river at about noon with very little waiting. Ventured across the top of the world road out through Chicken and I was in Tok at 16:30 and at Slana camp ground about 5 hrs east of Valdez a couple hrs later.

Well I should be off, another busy day in retirement tomorrow. Pete

 

[DBF]

Well, I didn't mention a few other things we've done in/from Dawson over the years.



This last year, we took the truck & 5er up the Dempster Hwy as far as Eagle Plains and the Arctic Circle. Stayed the nite & returned. Saw all sorts of wildlife and spectacular scenery. You'd better be prepared for this one; you do get way out in the boons.



We also took the catamaran down the Yukon (northwest) to Eagle AK and return. Came upon a moose swimming across the river. Eagle's not much, but the people are great - one lady tending her garden talked with us for a long time and gave us new radishes to test (very good).



Another year, we hit Dawson on July 1, Canada Day. There was a little parade, speeches, everybody got a card with the words to "Oh, Canada" so we could sing along, punch & cake, sky-divers and the rest. The Yukon gold-panning championships were held that day as well, although that's not much of a spectator sport.



Let me note that I didn't just recommend the Bonanza Creek road to the dredge, I recommended doing the whole King Solomon dome Loop Road that the Bonanza Creek road merges with.



In Chicken, there's panning for gold if you haven't done that already and a walking tour of the old town including the school building spoken of in the book, "Tisha".



There are several off-the-road campgrounds along the road south from Chicken that you can pull into and camp overnite. They're in the valleys and usually next to a stream. Look in Milepost if you want to stay a nite way out of town.



DBF

 

[Grizzly]

What great posts we have had since I posted last. Real good information on Dawson City and Chicken. Anything else anyone can think of is always welcomed and appreciated.

EEdmondson, we are planning on going to Denali NP and spending at least 3 days there, maybe more. Saw a lot of grizzlies and other wildlife and lots of great scenery on the 95 trip. We also saw Mt McKinley in full view, which I know is rare.

DBF, we may just go to Eagle and cross the Yukon River by catamaran. Sounds very inviting. Anything else you can think of about Eagle Alaska? I can't find the King Solomon Dome Loop Road nor Bonanza Creak on the map.

Hi Pete, how was the skiing? We're thinking about Dawson Creek. Chicken isn't sounding as good. I want to research Eagle.

Another place I have researched is Kenai and Soldotna. That's a for sure area of interest. I also wish we could go into the Brooks Ranges, but the last time I looked into it, one would have to be picked and fork out a lot of cash to get into it. Is that still the case?

Many thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. Looks like many folks are interested in Alaska.

 

[dcoffman]

I should read on I guess but, don't when you two went to AK via Top Of The World but I went in 2002 and from Dawson to the broder it was wide and paved all the way. From to border to just below Chicken it is dirt/gravel . I ran more than 35 in spots but you need to take it slow to enjoy the scenery. I guess diff folk see things different. Tpo Of The World was better than rt 200 across Montana, my frist encounter with frost heaves. I would go again in a heart beat----I need to retire frist. My . 02 worth.

 

[DBF]

I should read on I guess but, don't when you two went to AK via Top Of The World but I went in 2002 and from Dawson to the broder it was wide and paved all the way. From to border to just below Chicken it is dirt/gravel .

Since 2002, the Canadian side has declined. Potholes all over the thing. There's still gravel to and around Chicken, but Alaska has paved more of the road approaching Chicken from Tok junction. Regards, DBF

 

[Grizzly]

Since 2002, the Canadian side has declined. Potholes all over the thing. There's still gravel to and around Chicken, but Alaska has paved more of the road approaching Chicken from Tok junction. Regards, DBF

I found King Solomon Dome Loop on my Mile Post map. It's located some 30 south of Eagle. Still can't find Bonanza Creek Road.

decoffman, My last trip to Alaska was in 95, but I did not go through the Top of World Highway. Sounds like you found it to be worth the while.

My wife's son wants us to bring him some Alaska brew beer. Any recommendations anyone.

 

[DBF]

DBF, we may just go to Eagle and cross the Yukon River by catamaran. Sounds very inviting. Anything else you can think of about Eagle Alaska? I can't find the King Solomon Dome Loop Road nor Bonanza Creak on the map.

Hi Pete, how was the skiing? We're thinking about Dawson Creek. Chicken isn't sounding as good. I want to research Eagle.



Another place I have researched is Kenai and Soldotna. That's a for sure area of interest. I also wish we could go into the Brooks Ranges, but the last time I looked into it, one would have to be picked and fork out a lot of cash to get into it. Is that still the case?

Many thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. Looks like many folks are interested in Alaska.

Eagle is at the end of a poor road north from a junction near Chicken. It's larger than Chicken, but still small. The catamaran works this way: At Dawson City, in the morning, it loads tourists from buses (Holland American) and runs to Eagle, about 2. 5 hours. The tourists get off onto different H-A buses and continue their trip. The tourists those H-A buses brought into Eagle get on the cat and it goes back to Dawson City. The early H-A buses take the tourists to a hotel for the night and onward the next day. There are ususally seats left over for the general public, but you have to do the round trip from Dawson City OR go from Eagle and stay overnight in Dawson City and return in the morning.



Don't confuse Dawson City way up in the Yukon with Dawson Creek in BC. They're named after the same Dawson, but one is at the start of the Alaska Hwy and the other way off.



While I'm at it, be aware that Kenai & Soldatna are in the area that Anchorage residents use for weekends and vacations. Be ready for lots of people.



Back to Dawson City and King Solomon's Dome, go to this link, scroll to the bottom and click on the map to make it expand:

http://www.pc.gc.ca/voyage-travel/pv-vp/itm13-/page9_e.asp

You'll see the Bonanza Creek road, Upper Bonanza Creek road and how that runs into the Hunker Creek road, to form the Goldfields Loop or King Solomon Dome loop road.



DBF

 

[Grizzly]

DBF, it all makes sense now. that's a good link and a good map. While you were there, did you pan for gold and can you keep what you find? I happen to have a gold pan, maybe I'll take with me.

Thanks for the tip on Kenai, we can arrange to stay away on weekends. Is there anything you can tell me about Kenai and Soldatna? Did you spend much time there.

Another place we plan on going to is Anchor Point near Homer and visit Snapshot, a TDR member.

 

[dewdo]

Don't forget Homer! Interesting little town. Furn to walk the boardwalk and go to the fishing hole and watch the so cllaed fishermen snag salmon.



Dewdo in the other Washington

 

[DBF]

DBF, it all makes sense now. that's a good link and a good map. While you were there, did you pan for gold and can you keep what you find? I happen to have a gold pan, maybe I'll take with me.

Thanks for the tip on Kenai, we can arrange to stay away on weekends. Is there anything you can tell me about Kenai and Soldatna? Did you spend much time there.

Another place we plan on going to is Anchor Point near Homer and visit Snapshot, a TDR member.

Spent no time in the Kenai region, too many people.



Homer is also full of folks, but you expect that; do the Spit and people-watch, there is also a nice nature center & walk east of town. I'm not going to tell you my favorite restaurant there.



Gold panned on 2001 trip, and 1995 cruise-air trip, kept what I got, but that wasn't much - strictly tourist quantities.



Anchor Point is as far west as you can go on this continent by contiguous roads. Take a picture. If you go to Deadhorse, you'll be as far north as you can go by roads from the 49 states. For east, you have to go to St. John's, Newfoundland.



DBF