Alaska trip in a cab-over-camper

[Grizzly]

Well, where to start?



The Big Horn Highway (Hwy 40) is probably the best route North from Jasper. We took it last summer pulling my fifth wheel and quite enjoyed the drive, especially North of Grande Cache. Depending on which way you enter Canada from South you may want to consider taking the Hwy 22/40 combo on the way to Banff as well, much nicer than Hwy 2 to Calgary.



If the B. C. Ferries are still buggered this summer (and it looks like they may be) you may want to skip the Bella Coola portion and keep heading South to Hwy 99 through Lillooet and Whistler. The portion from Lilooet to Pemberton is called Duffy Lake Road and calling it a Highway is probably optimistic, but it is still paved and an excellent drive as far as scenery and campgrounds etc.



You can then take the ferry from Horseshoe Bay and either head directly over to Vancouver Island or do a counter-clockwise loop through the Sunshine Coast. Personally I wouldn't bother with the Sunshine Coast if I was heading South down the Island from Port Hardy (from the Bella Coola ferry) on the way to Victoria.



I'll post some more info when I get a chance over the next couple of days. Any questions, just ask.

Thanks Gonzo2. Good information. I was thinking of the Big Horn Highway 40, sure glad to get some heads up on it.

We plan on going into Canada through Glacier NP, which is Highway 2 and come out at St Mary and into Cardston, BC. I can't find Hwy 22/40 on the way to Banff on my maps. I do need some newer maps, which I will pick up at AAA tomorrow. We plan on by-passing Calgary.

I was hoping the ferry would be operating at Bella Coola to Port Hardy, but if not, we'll take your suggestion and take Hwy 99 to Horseshoe Bay. Is that the best port into Vancouver Island with respects to Butchart Gardens and Victoria?

Thanks again, Grizzly

 

[gonzo2]

Highway 22 is directly W of #2 and runs parallel to it through the foothills. You can take this all the way to Highway 1 (Trans-Canada) or at Longview you can cut-off to 40 through the Kananaskis. You can get there by going a short drive west at either Cardston (which will take you to Waterton National Park ) or at Fort Macleod (right by Head-Smashed-In-Buffalo-Jump). The Frank Slide is worth checking out if you go that way.



If you want to go directly to Butchart Gardens/Victoria from the mainland, the Tsawawassen (just south of Vancouver) to Swartz Bay ferry route is the one to take. The Beachcomber campground in the link I gave you is close to both and is kind of a neat place.

 

[DBF]

I was hoping the ferry would be operating at Bella Coola to Port Hardy, but if not, we'll take your suggestion and take Hwy 99 to Horseshoe Bay. Is that the best port into Vancouver Island with respects to Bushard Gardens (sp) and Victoria?

Thanks again, Grizzly

The Queen of the North was a big part of northern BC transportation. It'll take them some time to get back together.



If you're coming down 99, take your time, as the road has many curves and some steep grades (downhill in your direction, mainly). You might want to take lunch at Whistler, somewhat equivalent to our Aspen area and where the skiing events of the 2010 Olympics will be held.



Rt99 will lead you directly to Horseshoe Bay (ferry to Nanaimo, road to Victoria) if you want to pass up on the big city of Vancouver.

If you have the time, do some of Vancouver.



It's a beautiful city, for the most part. To do it, from Horseshoe Bay, go east on TC1 to North Vancouver, turn south at Taylor Way (actually, this is still 99). Take Taylor Way south across Marine Drive and turn left at the next intersection - Bridge St. Turn left and go to Capilano RV Park. Check in and leave the truck there.



You can easily walk back to the mall you just passed on the way in, and get groceries (or anything else), or you can walk to the front of the mall and take Vancouver buses to anywhere. Granville Island is a nice touristy place. Stanley Park is beautiful. You can stand at the bridge and watch the cruise ships pass on their way to Alaska.



When you've done it, drive thru Vancouver to Tsawwassen or just go west back to Horshoe.



More later on Victoria - another great place.



DBF

 

[DBF]

More later on Victoria - another great place.

DBF

We didn't stay long in Victoria, but we liked what we saw. We stayed at the Fort Victoria RV Park. A bus line is convenient, but we took the truck downtown to the harbor in front of the provincial government buildings and the Empress Hotel ("the Jewel of the Pacific").

http://www.britishcolumbia.com/Attractions/attractions/empress.html



There are a couple of entertaining museums within walking distance. You can take a double-deck bus tour of downtown. Tour the provincial government buildings. Lunch just north of the Empress, up Government Street. Walk along the harbor's side and see the different boats and people.



You can also preview the entrance for the ferry "Coho" that can/will take you back to the US at Port Angeles, WA. It's on the south side of the harbor, west of the government buildings.



The Coho is a comfortable ferry that takes about 1. 5 hours dock-to-dock. It can get choppy in the Straits of Juan de Fuca, though.



Guess I've run out of ideas. DBF

 

[Grizzly]

gonzo2, I got new maps from AAA today and now I can see Hwy 22 and Hay 40 through Kananaskis Village. How is Dead Man's Flats for camping?

I still can't find Butchart Gardens in my new maps, but we could take the Tsawawassen to Swartz Bay ferry. I'll look for the Beachcomber campground.

DBF, Hwy 99 sound interesting and an adventure. I'll see if the wife is up to it. I'd like to try it. Been to Stanley Park before and loved it. It may be great to take in some of Vancouver, if time allows. We were in Vancouver and Vancouver Island 4 years ago. Our most memorable places were Butchart Gardens and Victoria. We would like to come back into the USA through Port Angeles so that we can come down Hwy 101 to San Louis Obispo, however I do have a nephew in Seattle and a brother in Grants Pass, OR that we would like to see. Does the ferry, "Coho" come out of Victoria?

We have an itinerary, which had been revised about 10 times, and it has 3 more days then my wife wants. Back to the cutting room floor, as they say in the movies.

Thank you all for your impute. grizzly (george)

 

[DBF]

I still can't find Butchart Gardens in my new maps, but we could take the Tsawawassen to Swartz Bay ferry.

I'll look for the Beachcomber campground.

DBF, Hwy 99 sound interesting and an adventure. I'll see if the wife is up to it. I'd like to try it. Been to Stanley Park before and loved it. It may be great to take in some of Vancouver, if time allows. We were in Vancouver and Vancouver Island 4 years ago. Our most memorable places were Butchart Gardens and Victoria. We would like to come back into the USA through Port Angeles so that we can come down Hwy 101 to San Louis Obispo, however I do have a nephew in Seattle and a brother in Grants Pass, OR that we would like to see. Does the ferry, "Coho" come out of Victoria?

(george)

Butchart Gardens is at 800 Benvenuto Avenue in Brentwood Bay, west of 17A.

http://www.butchartgardens.com/admission/location.php



Yes, the Coho runs between the Victoria harbor and the Port Angeles, WA, waterfront. If you want to go from PA to Seattle, take US101 east to WA104 to the Kingston ferry that runs to Edmonds. Then take I-5 south to Seattle.



If you want to skip Seattle, take US101 West to the coast and follow it south to Oregon hwy 42, then go east to I-5 and south to Grant's Pass. Beautiful scenery along US101.



DBF

 

[Grizzly]

DBF, I found Butchart Gardens in one of my maps from AAA. A little insert of Victoria. The web site you send for Butchart Gardens is amazing. Lot of good information there about Victoria as well. I called an toll free number to obtain ferry schedules with fares and additional maps. Thank you.

Oregon Hwy 42 would be good to take to Grants Pass. Then out of Grants Pass I like to take the Redwood Hwy 199 to Crescent City, Calif. Then I like to go south on Hwy 101. Somewhere between Crescent City and Eureka you can dry camp along the ocean for a limited stay. It was always free with no facilities. You just find a spot and pull in. I been to Oregon to visit my brother many times since he moved his family some 30 years ago. I do like the 101 route to San Louis Obispo. I don't care to go into LA anymore. Way to congested and un friendly. I take Hwy 58 through Bakersfield and Barstow, then I-40 all the way home. george

 

[Grizzly]

I am planing a trip also to Alaska in 2007 when I retire and have been following this thread with great interest. I do however want to haul my 27 foot travel trailer. Does a 5er really make that much difference on a trip like this or can we comfortable haul the TT? I also want to make part of the trip on the marine highway just to view parts of the inside passage. Does anyone know how expensive it would be with a quad cab short bed 2500 and a 27 foot TT? I would appreciate any help you folks can give me. Thanks in advance.

Trophy1 I hope I didn't discourage you from making the trip with your TT. I was hoping that someone would post some latest information on TT on the Alcan. I don't know about getting a TT on a ferry. On my '95 trip, I was told that they could not take my 29' 5th wheel because the total length of truck and trailer was too long. Again, I'm hoping someone will kick in here with some information for you. I'm sure you can find a web site for the Inside Passage with a toll free number and ask the question. Hope you find some answers.

 

[gonzo2]

Deadmans Flats I would rate as OK for camping, Kananaskis or Banff would be better.

Banff Campgrounds

Kananaskis



Here is the beachcomber site: Beachcomber



Another option is to stay right downtown Here: West Bay

They are right on the Inner harbour and you can get around using the Harbour Taxi right there.



While I am going Link Crazy I'll give you a few more.



Good Vancouver Campground:Cariboo



Travel Alberta:Travel Alberta

 

[Trophy1]

Grizzly

I am not deterred and will continue to plan my trip in a TT after discussions with the Mrs. We will take it easy and make adjustments as necessary. For us it will be the trip of our life time and we want to see as much as possible. We still have a year to plan this trip. Thank you for your help

 

[PTomlinson]

Grizzly

I am not deterred and will continue to plan my trip in a TT after discussions with the Mrs. We will take it easy and make adjustments as necessary. For us it will be the trip of our life time and we want to see as much as possible. We still have a year to plan this trip. Thank you for your help

Well considering that I drove from Palm Springs to Dawson City last week I think I can comment on that section of the trip. Don't worry about it. From Vancouver BC on I had a u-haul trailer and was helping a friend move.



Basically all I can say is most of the people who are having trailer and RV problems are the ones trying to drive at 70mph rather than the more realistic 45 - 55mph. I must admit on this trip that I didn't travel the area where the frost heaves are the worst, north of Haines Junction, but again usually the people who have problems are the ones who try to drive too fast, or the ones who haven't properly maintained their vehicles.



To be honest I incountered more rough roads that tried to vibrate my fillings out on I-5 than I did on the Alaska Highway. There are potholes and there are rough sections, but if you take your time you and your vehicle will be fine (says the guy who just drove 3600 miles in 5 days).



I know plenty of people who live up here who own and drive RVs up and down the Alaska Highway and around the Yukon (TT, 5-wheels, and Motor homes of all sizes) who have never had to do anything other than regular maintenance. And of course driving by the local WalMart on a summer morning also shows some interesting varity in RVs (40-50 RVs some days).



Paul

 

[Trophy1]

Paul

Thanks for the words of encouragement. Momma and I will not be in a hurry on this trip for sure.

I do have another question on how RV folks take care of their mail and bills while on the road for an extended time period. All our 4 children are grown and scattered all over this wonderful country. Any suggestions will be of great help.

Thanks

Bruce

 

[PTomlinson]

Oh and for Yukon information you can go to this website. I can't remember if someone had posted it before.



Touryukon



Paul

 

[DBF]

Oh and for Yukon information you can go to this website. I can't remember if someone had posted it before.



Touryukon



Paul

Please give our best wishes to Lizz & Rudy at Panda's on Main St. Excellent restaurant, great people.



Regards, DBF



PS: For others, this is the link to a review of the restaurant:

http://www.frommers.com/destinations/whitehorse/D50908.html



I have no interest in the restaurant other than as a very satisfied customer.

 

[Grizzly]

Trophy1. You can stop your mail and get it all delivered when you return from your trip. You can stop your newspaper and not pay for it while you are gone. I have all my bills, which are the normal utilities and cell phone on Automatic Pay Plan. I imagine one can do the same with vehicle and house payment, or you can pay them in advance.

Gonzo2, those are great links. I looked at all of them. I imagine anything near Lake Louise you need reservation ahead of time. Likewise with Vancouver?

DBF, I'm a little confused, Where in the Yukon is Lizz and Rudy's?

 

[DBF]

Paul

Thanks for the words of encouragement. Momma and I will not be in a hurry on this trip for sure.

I do have another question on how RV folks take care of their mail and bills while on the road for an extended time period. All our 4 children are grown and scattered all over this wonderful country. Any suggestions will be of great help.

Thanks

Bruce

This may or may not be of use to you.

Mail:

While we lived in Virginia, we had a mail slot in our front door; all the mail fell into the foyer. Our son came to the house periodially and sorted it to see if anything vital was there.

When we moved to Florida, we rented a box at the local UPS store. All mail goes there and we pick it up when we want. If we're in Homer and going to be Anchorage the next week, we tell them to bale it up and mail it to where we will be.

Bills:

We have automatic deductions from our accounts at the credit union and manage it on-line. Only a few bills are pre-authorized to be paid whether or not we say so. We get on-line weekly and authorize the other bills to be paid (and when), and to transfer $$ between accounts.

We also have changed our payment dates for annual bills to be in months when we're not travelling much (Jan). Some bills we just pay ahead of time.



Regards, DBF

 

[TurboCanScoot]

I have made three trips up and down the Alcan since last May. My first trip is from the Dodge Dealership in Idaho to Anchorage. Next, from Anchorage to Dodge dealership in Idaho to trade in 2005 3/4 ton for 1 ton in the first part of December. Then back home with new Lance camper and 1 ton dually. As far as the road conditions... the worst roads were from the Canadian boarder to Anchorage. The frost heaves are well marked on the Canadian side of the boarder. On the USA side they are not as well marked. I was crusin about 65 heading to Tok AK and hit an unmarked heave and I'm sure I had all four tires off the ground. Keep it at 55, you will have time to react to the larger heaves. As far as rocks I took on chip on the window on the last trip up. You might want to screen off your radiator. I do have a few dings from rocks through the grille. I saw a nice screen at genosgarage.com called Kirby’s condenser guard. It is made of 16 gauge metal to deflect the missiles coming at your radiator.



You will pass a settlement a few miles from the USA/Canadian boarder called Koldern. To get the true meaning of the settlement you must travel through there in December. The truck started to sound like the Rice Krispies commercial. It started to snap, crack, and pop. I looked up at the overhead display and it said -37.

Koldern Hell!



On the way up the most expensive fuel was Haines Junction at about $1. 20 per liter Canadian. That is about $4. 00 per gallon



The weather in August might be a consideration. Normally the weather starts to cool off and it starts to rain from mid August to October. The weather has been mild these last few years up here. The best time to visit is June and July. Knock on wood.



I am planning a 6 week trip south at the end of June. We will head as far south as the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and drive about 9,000 miles. We will drive Highway 101 all the way down to LA, then over to Vegas, Hover Dam, North Rim of Grand Canyon, Death Valley, Lake Tahoe, Crater Lake, back up to Seattle for the NHRA summer nationals. The only thing that sounds better than a Cummins is a Nitro Top Fuel Dragster!

 

[Grizzly]

I have made three trips up and down the Alcan since last May. My first trip is from the Dodge Dealership in Idaho to Anchorage. Next, from Anchorage to Dodge dealership in Idaho to trade in 2005 3/4 ton for 1 ton in the first part of December. Then back home with new Lance camper and 1 ton dually.



Muller R, welcome to TDR. You made your first post a good one with much useful information. Enjoy your new Dodge/Cummins and Lance camper. Hope to hear more from you. Grizzly

 

[radar doctor]

What a bunch of great stories. We went there in 1997 and ill have a story too add later... RADAR DOCTOR NORTH CENTRAL KANSAS

 

[Grizzly]

We are planning on going through Glacier NP. We will go in at Kalispell, through Martin City and come out at St Mary. There are 6 camp ground along the way through the park and several outside in both directions. Can anyone recommend one and attractions to see in the park. What wildlife have you seen and where in the park?