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amsoil use

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It is important to understand that everyone who signs up with AMSOIL is assigned to a dealer as a sponsor. If you don't specify who you are wanting to work with, then you are randomly assigned to a dealer. Lots of guys have signed up not knowing this and aren't happy with their assigned sponsor since many don't know diesels and don't know these clubs. There are many dealers who support the Cummins habit and getting in touch with one of us is beneficial in how your account is managed and the customer service you get.



-Chuck
 
It is important to understand that everyone who signs up with AMSOIL is assigned to a dealer as a sponsor. If you don't specify who you are wanting to work with, then you are randomly assigned to a dealer. Lots of guys have signed up not knowing this and aren't happy with their assigned sponsor since many don't know diesels and don't know these clubs. There are many dealers who support the Cummins habit and getting in touch with one of us is beneficial in how your account is managed and the customer service you get.



-Chuck



I am assigned to a dealer, but he is retired and travels alot:p. That being said. I have been ordering direct from Amsoil for the last 10 years or so. No problems, excellent service. If I have questions I call their tech line. Just switched my compressor oil over to Amsoil. "WE DON NEED NO STINKIN' DEELER":-laf. GregH
 
I spoke to a man that has 830K on his CTD with no engine work and he uses Delo 400. It's also been great on my trucks. Therefore, if you don't mind, I'll stay the REAL OIL.



And I'll bet he changed his oil every 3000 miles like the oil man said, right? :D I'll bet I can get 830K on my truck if I did that with any 15W40 manufactured since the truck was built. But I'm not interested in wasting my time when I can save money in the long run. I'm also not trying to change YOUR mind. I just wish you would stop being such a curmudgeon about the whole thing. Real Oil GMAFB.
 
Neither oil is "real" or "artificial. " They are both legitimate oils. The difference is all in where the oils came from and their performance characteristics. Conventional oils are refined from crude oil, and that's nothing new. But oils that we know today as "synthetics" are not all equal.



There are many oils out there that call themselves synthetic, but not all are created equal, and that's important to know when choosing an oil. You do get what you pay for. Group III synthetic oils only use about 12% synthetic base stocks. The rest is hyrdocracked petroleum base stocks. For major oil companies who have their money in crude oil refining, the word "synthetic" is merely a marketing term. It does not mean 100%, but just that a percentage of synthetic base stock goes into their product.



The oils that are commonly mentioned are Group II and Group III synthetics with the exception of Royal Purple, which is a Group V. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic (PAO) but also uses Group V Ester technology. It gives you the best of Group IV and Group V synthetics. Mobil 1 is a Group III synthetic. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic.



In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.



Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has some of the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. AMSOIL differs from Group III oils. As a Group IV oil, it uses 100% pure synthetic base stocks. This is why you can run it for longer intervals.



Synthetic oils were originally designed for the purpose of having a very pure base oil with excellent properties. By starting from scratch and building up your oil molecules from little pieces, you can pretty much guarantee that every molecule in the oil is just like every other molecule, and therefore the properties are exactly what you designed in, not compromised by impurities. Synthetics were thus originally a reaction to the relatively poor refining processes available from about 1930 to about 1990. The original synthetics were designed for the Army Air Force in WW II. They simply could not make their high- performance turbo-charged radial engines stay alive on the available motor oils of the time.



One process for making synthetic base oils is to start with a chemical called an olefin, and make new molecules by attaching them to each other in long chains, hence "poly. " The primary advantage of Poly-Alpha-Olefin "PAO" base oil is that all the molecules in the base oil are pretty much identical, so it's easy to get the base oil to behave exactly as you like. PAOs are called Group IV base oils.



These PAO base oils have an enormous advantage over mineral base oils in low temperature performance and in resistance to oxidation, which is critical in keeping the oil from forming acids.



Another type of base oil is made from refined and processed esters and is called Group V. Esters start life as fatty acids in plants and animals, which are then chemically combined into esters, diesters, and polyesters. Your vegetarian girlfriend should love that. Group V base stocks are the most expensive of all to produce. However, the esters are polar molecules and have very significant solvent properties - an ester base oil all by itself will do a very decent job of keeping your engine clean. So, people who are serious about making a superior oil will usually mix some Group V oils into their base stock.



Oils that are strictly Group V ester oils tend to be better suited for high RPM, hot running, air cooled engines. 100% ester based oils are usually more expensive than Group IV oils, and don't have the longevity of PAO (Group IV) or PAO/Ester mixes oils. Group V oils perform very well in the shorter term. Oils like Royal Purple and Redline are Group V oils. They perform very well in race engines and in applications where drain intervals are factory spec or shorter, whereas Group IV oils are better suited for the long haul of extended intervals.



Whatever oil you choose, know what you are buying. Just because the jug says "synthetic" doesn't mean it is made from 100% pure synthetic base stocks.
 
10w30/sae 30?

Has anyone tried running Amsoil 10W30/SAE 30? From the looks, that would be a good common oil to run in both my diesels - an '05 Jeep Liberty CRD and an '87 Mercedes-Benz 300DT.



You won't believe what DC speced in the owners manual for a recommended oil for the '05 CRD - Mobil 1 0W40, API rating CF. In a modern direct injected common rail turbo diesel with EGR and closed CCV. It said you could use Mobil 1 5W40 if you couldn't find 0W40. A gas engine oil in a diesel. I dumped that crap out as soon as I found out what was in it, and have been running Rotella 5W40 ever since.



But now that Shell and Mobil are going CJ-4, I'm looking for something that will still be CI-4 or CI-4+.
 
And I'll bet he changed his oil every 3000 miles like the oil man said, right? :D I'll bet I can get 830K on my truck if I did that with any 15W40 manufactured since the truck was built. But I'm not interested in wasting my time when I can save money in the long run. I'm also not trying to change YOUR mind. I just wish you would stop being such a curmudgeon about the whole thing. Real Oil GMAFB.







He told me that he changes his oil every 7 to 8K miles. He's on the road all the time and doesn't have time for 3K mile oil changes. I'm just being who I am and saying what I prefer.
 
He told me that he changes his oil every 7 to 8K miles. He's on the road all the time and doesn't have time for 3K mile oil changes. I'm just being who I am and saying what I prefer.



Point made, but like you said, you're being who you are. I have to say your "Name" fits. :D
 
Has anyone tried running Amsoil 10W30/SAE 30? From the looks, that would be a good common oil to run in both my diesels - an '05 Jeep Liberty CRD and an '87 Mercedes-Benz 300DT.



You won't believe what DC speced in the owners manual for a recommended oil for the '05 CRD - Mobil 1 0W40, API rating CF. In a modern direct injected common rail turbo diesel with EGR and closed CCV. It said you could use Mobil 1 5W40 if you couldn't find 0W40. A gas engine oil in a diesel. I dumped that crap out as soon as I found out what was in it, and have been running Rotella 5W40 ever since.



But now that Shell and Mobil are going CJ-4, I'm looking for something that will still be CI-4 or CI-4+.



DC spec'd 0W40 for a reason. 5W40 is an alternative, and not the standard, for a reason, and I suppose when you get your mechanical engineering degree, you can refer to spec oil as "crap," and I might listen then.
 
Has anyone tried running Amsoil 10W30/SAE 30? From the looks, that would be a good common oil to run in both my diesels - an '05 Jeep Liberty CRD and an '87 Mercedes-Benz 300DT.



You won't believe what DC speced in the owners manual for a recommended oil for the '05 CRD - Mobil 1 0W40, API rating CF. In a modern direct injected common rail turbo diesel with EGR and closed CCV. It said you could use Mobil 1 5W40 if you couldn't find 0W40. A gas engine oil in a diesel. I dumped that crap out as soon as I found out what was in it, and have been running Rotella 5W40 ever since.



But now that Shell and Mobil are going CJ-4, I'm looking for something that will still be CI-4 or CI-4+.



That is the Synthetic 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil (ACD) that you are referring to. It is a great synthetic blend, but not a full synthetic. It is CI-4+ rated and would fit your needs fine. The other option would be the AME 15W40 which is full synthetic and CI-4+ rated. The third AMSOIL diesel oil that remains CI-4+ rated is the HDD 5W30 diesel oil. Only the AMSOIL DEO 5W40 is CJ-4 rated at this time.



Hope that helps.

-Chuck
 
AMSOIL may indeed be a fine oil, but the way their products are marketed has turned me off since day 1, and I would never consider using them, but that's just me. I do give my hats off to "Duluth Diesel" for the good, factual posts, and omitting the sales pitch.



IMO, Red Line and Royal Purple oil products are the finest oil products made, and also the most expensive. They are not for everyone. Red Line 15W-40 Diesel clearly has the best additive packages combined w/ a Group V base stock. The oil article in the current TDR issue confirms that. And with the highest TBN as well, I don't agree that it can't successfully go for extended drains either. And no, I am not financially tied to Red Line Oil or Royal Purple in any way. :)
 
AMSOIL may indeed be a fine oil, but the way their products are marketed has turned me off since day 1, and I would never consider using them, but that's just me. I do give my hats off to "Duluth Diesel" for the good, factual posts, and omitting the sales pitch.



IMO, Red Line and Royal Purple oil products are the finest oil products made, and also the most expensive. They are not for everyone. Red Line 15W-40 Diesel clearly has the best additive packages combined w/ a Group V base stock. The oil article in the current TDR issue confirms that. And with the highest TBN as well, I don't agree that it can't successfully go for extended drains either. And no, I am not financially tied to Red Line Oil or Royal Purple in any way. :)





Yet another great post, thank you:)
 
DC spec'd 0W40 for a reason. 5W40 is an alternative, and not the standard, for a reason, and I suppose when you get your mechanical engineering degree, you can refer to spec oil as "crap," and I might listen then.



I sincerely doubt you would listen, even if I bothered to list my particulars concerning diesel engines.



As far as being trained in mechanical engineering - how about I send you a shoehorn so you can pull your foot out of your mouth?



My thanks to Duluth for the info provided. FYI, I've found on the Liberty CRD that in addition to the EaO-34 filter listed as a direct replacement, the Amsoil EaO-26 filter will work as well - same thread and gasket size, the larger case added nearly 1/2 quart to sump capacity.



Actually, I did try Amsoil 15W40 last summer. However, compared to Rotella 5W40, oil consumption increased noticeably, and during the first cold snap when temps dipped into the low 30's, it took noticeably more effort on the part of the starter to crank the beast over - no problems getting it going, but enough of a difference that it was noticeable. These two factors, and the difference in price, caused me to switch back to Rotella 5W40.



However, I have heard from CRD owners down in the warmer climes of Texas that are running Amsoil 15W40 without any problems.
 
I sincerely doubt you would listen, even if I bothered to list my particulars concerning diesel engines.



As far as being trained in mechanical engineering - how about I send you a shoehorn so you can pull your foot out of your mouth?



I'll pass on the shoehorn. You didn't design the engine. VM Motori did.
 
Can't we all just get along?!? Aren't we all the same? When you prick your fingers, does diesel not run from your veins? When you fart, does a big black cloud of smoke not come forth from you? When you snore does it sound like a truck going down hill with the jake brake on? See that-we're all alike!
 
Would the spec'd oil for the liberty be for reducing the chance of plugging the cat converter? Remember, the liberty is primarily a gas-engine model that they threw a small CRD into...

I'm still wondering how the diesel world can run a CI-4, or even a CJ-4, oil on a truck with a cat converter with all the zinc??? IIRC, the zinc is primarily what is removed from gas-rated oils to keep the cat happy. I haven't seen too many reports of plugged diesel cats... I wonder also if they are designed differently??? Or maybe that whole argument regarding zinc is a bunch of hoo-haw??

steved
 
I do believe the "first" post psted by LCarleton was asking about the pro's and con's of using Amsoil lube in his CTD. I ask that you please keep the thread on subject matter, and respect his intent of fiinding the pro's and con's of his question. Please try and get along by not getting in a tug-o-war.



Respectfully,



Wayne

TDR Moderator
 
I do believe the "first" post psted by LCarleton was asking about the pro's and con's of using Amsoil lube in his CTD. I ask that you please keep the thread on subject matter, and respect his intent of fiinding the pro's and con's of his question. Please try and get along by not getting in a tug-o-war.



Respectfully,



Wayne

TDR Moderator



Quite true.



I posed my question on 10W30 after seeing that some people in this thread were using 15W40 in the summer and 5W30 in the winter. And from the number of miles they've run, apparently there weren't any ill effects, either from using Amsoil or using 5W30.



For those of you that have been running 5W30 in the winter, have you noticed any differences as far as oil analysis, the way the engine behaves, etc, other than what you would expect with a different viscosity?



Like quite a few other people that have read the oil comparison article in Issue 57, I'm not entirely convinced yet that CJ rated oil is a good thing for pre-'07 diesels, at least until I see some results from real world useage, and I'll stand corrected if the results prove otherwise.



In the meantime, I'm playing CYA, finding out what my alternatives are as far as suitable oils that, at least for the time being, will remain CI-4 or CI-4+, whether that be Amsoil, Valvoline, or whatever, just in case CJ oil does turn out to be a pig in a poke.



As far as the Liberty CRD itself - check out Ranch Dressing in Issue 57, where John Holmes discusses Jeep Diesels. And that's just some of what we've been dealing with.
 
AMSOIL may indeed be a fine oil, but the way their products are marketed has turned me off since day 1, and I would never consider using them, but that's just me.
You know the way automobiles are sold with those commission hungry sails people really turns me off day one. Those guys will say anything to make a sale. I think I would rather walk than do business with them. Well on second thought I like driving a good product so I may rethink my position before I cut my nose off to spite my face.



Edward
 
Not all dealers are like that, but you are right and justified in your opinion. Kinda like lawers all get lumped in the same vat. Used car salesman too. :) I'm willing to prove that to anyone with good customer service, follow-through, and fair advice. I've told people what not to buy from me many times if I don't feel right about it.



-Chuck
 
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