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Again, nothing against Amsoil syn, it is good stuff no doubt. But Delo works out better for my way of doing things. I dont like Rosmella though - at all. . Peeyoo!



That is the nice thing about choices. The more there are the better chance of finding something that works better for you.



Edward
 
I have always been concerned with the penetration of synthetic oils through your seals (more chance for oil leaks), the cost vs need (Living in a non cold climate), and third, I like to burn the used oil as fuel since I circulate it through a separate frantz filter for a while before transferring it to the main tank.



Comments on your points:



1) Synthetic lubricants do not penetrate any gaskets or seals. That is simply untrue. What happens in about 1% of cases on older engines is that leaks develop from an already faulty seal or gasket. Conventional oils can leave heavy deposits over time. If a gasket or seal fails and begins to leak, the conventional oil deposits often will seep in there and clog the faulty seal up, preventing a leak. Conventional oil can gum up your whole engine, but can stop leaks do to heavy deposits. This is how STP Oil Treatment and STP Radiator Treatment stop leaks. Not the best fix. The better fix is to address the problem rather than gum it up. So why do leaks sometimes develop with high end synthetic oils? Because they clean out your engine. As the oil sludge buildup is removed, the grime clogging a faulty gasket or seal is also removed. This is the cause of the leak finally showing itself. Synthetics DO NOT penetrate or degrade engine internals. If you develop a leak after switching to synthetics, which is very rare, you already had a problem with a seal or gasket, but it hadn't exposed itself yet due to sludge buildup. I recently picked up a 1993 Cummins 4x4 dually. Switched every fluid over to AMSOIL. That was almost a year ago and zero leaks. Actually, the underside of that '93 is cleaner than my '02 Cummins.



2) Synthetics not only provide great cold weather performance, but also hot weather performance and engine protection. Synthetics are more thermally stable at high temps. Think about the demands your oil-lubricated and oil-cooled turbo put on oil? Spinning at 30,000 rpm at 1,400 degrees EGT? That kind of abuse puts any oil to the test. Synthetics perform much better at those extremes with resistance to thermal breakdown and lower volatility at those temperatures.



3) As much as I tend to cringe when I hear of someone burning their waste oil through their injector pump and injectors, at least you are filtering it well with that Frantz before you put it in your fuel tank. That is a good idea. I assume you are doing this for lubricity? Engine oil, conventional or synthetic, is engineered to not burn well. It has a high flash point to make it as thermally stable as possible. Engine oil on average has a flash point much higher than diesel fuel. This can cause a poor or incomplete burn of the lube oil component of your fuel, which can lead to clogged injectors. If you want to add an oil to your fuel for lubricity (which I'll just point out is against manufacturer recommendations - covering my rear there;) I would say add 2 stroke oil to your fuel. It has a flash point much closer to that of diesel fuel and is engineered to burn clean and completely.



-Chuck
 
Comments on your points:



1) Synthetic lubricants do not penetrate any gaskets or seals. That is simply untrue. What happens in about 1% of cases on older engines is that leaks develop from an already faulty seal or gasket. Conventional oils can leave heavy deposits over time. If a gasket or seal fails and begins to leak, the conventional oil deposits often will seep in there and clog the faulty seal up, preventing a leak. Conventional oil can gum up your whole engine, but can stop leaks do to heavy deposits. This is how STP Oil Treatment and STP Radiator Treatment stop leaks. Not the best fix. The better fix is to address the problem rather than gum it up. So why do leaks sometimes develop with high end synthetic oils? Because they clean out your engine. As the oil sludge buildup is removed, the grime clogging a faulty gasket or seal is also removed. This is the cause of the leak finally showing itself. Synthetics DO NOT penetrate or degrade engine internals. If you develop a leak after switching to synthetics, which is very rare, you already had a problem with a seal or gasket, but it hadn't exposed itself yet due to sludge buildup. I recently picked up a 1993 Cummins 4x4 dually. Switched every fluid over to AMSOIL. That was almost a year ago and zero leaks. Actually, the underside of that '93 is cleaner than my '02 Cummins.



2) Synthetics not only provide great cold weather performance, but also hot weather performance and engine protection. Synthetics are more thermally stable at high temps. Think about the demands your oil-lubricated and oil-cooled turbo put on oil? Spinning at 30,000 rpm at 1,400 degrees EGT? That kind of abuse puts any oil to the test. Synthetics perform much better at those extremes with resistance to thermal breakdown and lower volatility at those temperatures.



3) As much as I tend to cringe when I hear of someone burning their waste oil through their injector pump and injectors, at least you are filtering it well with that Frantz before you put it in your fuel tank. That is a good idea. I assume you are doing this for lubricity? Engine oil, conventional or synthetic, is engineered to not burn well. It has a high flash point to make it as thermally stable as possible. Engine oil on average has a flash point much higher than diesel fuel. This can cause a poor or incomplete burn of the lube oil component of your fuel, which can lead to clogged injectors. If you want to add an oil to your fuel for lubricity (which I'll just point out is against manufacturer recommendations - covering my rear there;) I would say add 2 stroke oil to your fuel. It has a flash point much closer to that of diesel fuel and is engineered to burn clean and completely.



-Chuck

Chuck,

You make some good points!:)



Wayne

amsoilman
 
Without trying to make a long argument here, my turbo doesnt run at 1400 degrees and the oil that circulates THROUGH it does not reach 1400 degrees. Does it coke up in the bearings during shutdown, synthetic would have a higher tolerance for that, but I rarely shutdown @ over 300 so that not a major issue IMO either. 2nd, on my last truck I had no known oil leaks. I went to Mobile 1 oil and ended up getting a leak about 2 weeks after. Whatever the reason, it did happen. The motor had 179k miles on it when I sold it and ran fine, in fact my neighbor (the mechanic Im about to mention) came over with cash in his hand wanting first dibs on it because he knew how well it was maintained and ran. Third, I ran over 50k miles on a set of DD3's while burning almost all of my used motor oil, plus a neighbors donated used oil (he works as a mechanic out of his garage) and when I pulled the injectors to downsize to RV275's they were far from being clogged up.

I only debate you because you debated my points so this is my rebuttal. I have nothing against synthetic oil. In fact I have used and like Amsoil. It handles extremes better. But IMO right now in MY case, my OA's are coming out ok, and I dont have to take the used oil to the recycling center. It works for ME.

Other peoples results may vary. They can spend the extra money. It may extend the life of their engine.

I do find it funny how Amsoil is a multi-level marketing business and as soon as anyone says anything "slightly" negative about it, the Amsoil Sales Reps jump all over them. Ive watched it for about 7 years on this site and even remember when Don M. was banned from this site for mentioning things like Amsoil doesnt meet the Cummins spec etc. All fair comments IMO.

Interesting stuff indeed. .

Added: My original turbo has 150k miles on it and it still spins ok after using dino oil. And I miss Don M. He had a lot of good information to add to these forums.
 
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I wasn't trying to single you out, Phil. No offense intended. I just wanted to respond to those 3 points with my side of opinions, that's all. A lot of what I post up isn't necessarialy aimed at you or the original poster, but just to all those who read the thread in general. The back and forth conversation and sharing of information helps readers (even those who just lurk and never post) to form a more complete and informed opinion on their own choices. The advantage AMSOIL has in marketing is that there are product reps everywhere. Some are knowledgable, some are less-so, but you'll find that anywhere in any industry. If Mobil or Shell had product reps around, you'd get someone to "jump all over ya" if you said Rotella stinks as well. Anyway, I'm not here to make enemies or cram AMSOIL at you. I chose to be an AMSOIL dealer based on my own positive experiences, but I was a TDR member well before I was an AMSOIL dealer (April 2003 I joined TDR after buying my 2002 CTD). I am in this for the Cummins crowd, first and foremost. I have an '02 Cummins and it is the best truck I've ever owned. Now I try to give information on the products where it is relevant and be available to help people who want to know more. I am an AMSOIL Direct Jobber and make no attempt to hide that fact. It is a benefit to the reader to know the source of a post or thread rather then me being an AMSOIL troll. :)



Anyway, I'm glad your oil works for you. There is nothing wrong with that. We all get to make a brand choice and we all have our reasoning. It all comes down to doing what is right for you and your needs. If I try to provide relevant AMSOIL information, some will find it useful and some won't. That's cool.



Have a good one!

-Chuck
 
Agreed... By the way I am very happy with the Amsoil 4510 Nanofilter I bought with your help, and recommend one for anyone that runs the BHAF style filter.

As far as amsoil synthetic oil goes, Im usually VERY close to using it when I change the oil out, but for my personal reasons I end up using the dino stuff. . Amsoil syn is good oil, no doubt. Thanks. You have a good one also. Phil
 
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