amsoil use

[05mxdiesel]

Quite true.



I posed my question on 10W30 after seeing that some people in this thread were using 15W40 in the summer and 5W30 in the winter. And from the number of miles they've run, apparently there weren't any ill effects, either from using Amsoil or using 5W30.



For those of you that have been running 5W30 in the winter, have you noticed any differences as far as oil analysis, the way the engine behaves, etc, other than what you would expect with a different viscosity?

Here is a UOA showing ame 15w40 and series 3000 5w30. I've thought about running the 5w30 but the price difference always makes go back to the ame. And the AME has a pour point of -47 degrees.



Bob Is The Oil Guy: 2002 Dodge Cummins Diesel; Amsoil 15w-40 AME

 

[MOates]

Here is a UOA showing ame 15w40 and series 3000 5w30. I've thought about running the 5w30 but the price difference always makes go back to the ame. And the AME has a pour point of -47 degrees.



Bob Is The Oil Guy: 2002 Dodge Cummins Diesel; Amsoil 15w-40 AME

Thanks for the info and the link. I've got another forum now to mine for data on how to keep these two oil burners running.



If the 5W30 does that well in a Cummins, shouldn't have any problem keeping the 2. 8 L I4 in the Jeep happy. But it's definitely going to take UOA to determine if it's worth the cost and how long I can run it, as going by IAT's my engine makes heavy use of EGR and has a closed CCV system to boot. Soot loading from the EGR might make extended intervals unworkable.



One reason I'm interested in trying a 30W vice a 40W oil - a few months back I basically did a "flush" on the oil system - after draining out the old oil, I put on a cheap Fram filter and filled it with Wally World 5W30 motor oil ($7/5 quarts), drove it gently for 10 miles to flush out all the soot, then dumped that and put on my regular filter and Rotella 5W40 back in. One other CRD owner I know of did the same, and we both noticed the same effect - the 5W30 oil made a noticeable difference in the way the engine performed for the short time it was in, quieter and smoother.

 

[Crazy Horse]

It is important to understand that everyone who signs up with AMSOIL is assigned to a dealer as a sponsor. If you don't specify who you are wanting to work with, then you are randomly assigned to a dealer. Lots of guys have signed up not knowing this and aren't happy with their assigned sponsor since many don't know diesels and don't know these clubs. There are many dealers who support the Cummins habit and getting in touch with one of us is beneficial in how your account is managed and the customer service you get.



-Chuck

How do I sign up? I lost my supplier. And besides I didn't like driving 150 miles round trip to get it. I'm in Cherokee County, Upstate South Carolina.



Or, how do we do it this way:

I am assigned to a dealer, but he is retired and travels alot. That being said. I have been ordering direct from Amsoil for the last 10 years or so. No problems, excellent service. If I have questions I call their tech line. Just switched my compressor oil over to Amsoil. "WE DON NEED NO STINKIN' DEELER". GregH

Is one way cheeper than the other?

 

[GHarman]

Crazy Horse, I signed up as a commercial account. It initally started out with a dealer as a regular retail account (my first dealer died). I started my own business back in the early 80's and switched to a Commercial Account. I can't resell. You can, however, buy cheaper than the dealer pricing. Generally you must buy larger quantities other than single use to get the best prices. As I mentioned, my present dealer is still active but is often gone. It is so much easier to call direct, order direct and get answers as you need them. Amsoil's number is 1-800-777-7094. They "should" be able to get you set up. A local dealer "should" also. You will probably be assigned to a dealer. You are still in charge. You can order over the phone, retail or commercial, and via internet and have it shipped to your street address. They dont deliver to PO boxes. Hope this helps. PS. I dont get a kickback or better pricing if you sign up. The oil sells itself. The info is free. GregH

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

It is actually cheaper to use AMSOIL compared to products with a lower initial cost, like a conventional oil. When you do the math and figure in the extended drain intervals, less down time, and better protection, your operating cost per mile is much lower with AMSOIL. That's why I've used AMSOIL for over a decade. After about 7 years of using their products, I finally decided to becime a dealer. I run it in my truck, my wife's van, and all my little engines around the shop. Good stuff.



-Chuck

Chuck, yer a good guy and I love ya - but we've danced to THIS tune before, and I even have a TDR thread on the subject:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...9166-anatomy-extended-oil-usage-analysis.html



I'll grant you Amsoil users and dealers that the synthetics DO provide some worthwhile benefits over and above dino lubes - But I wish to GOD you'd STOP representing and pretending that you HAVE to use synthetics, Amsoil or otherwise, to benefit from extended oil drain intervals!



That simply is NOT true! It can be very easily done with any of the decent grade dino oils as well, with excellent results and analysis! Here's a direct quote on my own 20K mile test run from the above TDR thread pointer:

Because the Frantz TP filter I use recommends cartridge changes at about 2000 miles use, I have changed cartridges about 10 times during this run - and added the required quart of makeup oil each cartridge change - for about 10 quarts total over 20,000 miles. TP elements cost about 80 cents each - and the Delo runs me about $1. 60 a quart where I usually buy it - that's about $16 worth of oil, and about $8 for filters, plus one Fleetguard 3894 back along the line. A total of a bit over $32 in lube and filters in 20,000 miles ain't bad, as compared to "normal" changes - and MOST of those miles were pretty hard, partly RV towing, and a half-dozen well loaded trips as we made our move from California here to the new place in eastern Oregon

SO, about $32 in lube and filters in a 20K test run (could have EASILY run much further!) - what would have even the ORIGINAL crankcase full of Amsoil cost me - even without the filter cost?



"SAVE $$$" using Amsoil in extended drain intervals? SURE - but "save" lots MORE just using plain 'ol dino lube the same way!

YOU DON'T HAVE TO USE EXPEN$IVE $YNTHETIC OILS FOR EXTENDED OIL DRAIN INTERVALS, PERIOD! ​

:-laf:-laf:-laf

 

[GHarman]

About $50 and the truck will start in 0*F weather without a plug in. I leave my oil in the engine for a year or more, not so many miles, just changing regular cummins filters. No TP to get into the oil galleries. GregH

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

About $50 and the truck will start in 0*F weather without a plug in. I leave my oil in the engine for a year or more, not so many miles, just changing regular cummins filters. No TP to get into the oil galleries. GregH

AH, that tired old "TP in the crankcase" old wives tale!



Over 50 years use, and NO TP in the oil yet - but if quoting quaint (untrue!) notions rings yer bells, have at it... :-laf:-laf

 

[GHarman]

Gary, You had to add that extra filtering system, that wasn't free. How many miles on your rig? You may have amortized the cost by now. I will not use butt wipe for a filter. (BTW which is yer favorite brand? The perfumed kind or the embossed?:-laf:-laf) You do as you wish, its your truck and engine. Drive your rig for 16 years using your chosen oil and filter method, then brag! You have 11 years to go, Bud. I dont believe you will have the long term results. Prove me wrong. Highway miles are always easier on a truck and so is mild weather. Have you ever done oil sampling at the long intervals you claim for your petroleum oil? I am just curious about how well the oil actually holds up and how clean your engine really is. If the oil has the capability to keep all the gunk and sludge in solution and filter it out. Mine is clean, no sludge or gunk. Just replaced the oil pan gasket. I dont wish you any ill. I do agree with your signature but we do not see eye to eye on this subject. GregH

 

[GHarman]

Gary, BTW according to your post,. Frantz is 50 year old technology. Do you think that TP is scientifically engineered for "your" application. It is "engineered" and manufactured for personal hygene purposes, not to protect a modern expensive engine. Your money, your engine, your choice to listen to 50 year old hype. GregH

 

[Grizzly]

But I wish to GOD you'd STOP representing and pretending that you HAVE to use synthetics, Amsoil or otherwise, to benefit from extended oil drain intervals![/B]

That simply is NOT true! It can be very easily done with any of the decent grade dino oils as well, with excellent results and analysis! Here's a direct quote on my own 20K mile test run from the above TDR thread pointer:







Gary, I'm with you 100% on this. Good Post!

 

[Edward]

I am going to talk about three vehicles that I have or am driving.

The first was a 1969 Plymouth with a 318 gaser. Bought it used and put on a Frantz TP bypass oil filter. I drove it over 268000 miles before someone hit me at a stop light and it got totaled. Yes you can use dino juice and a bypass oil filter to extend engine life. It worked but you are out there every 2000 miles rain or shine dealing with a oily mess.

The next is my 2001 Dodge Cummins. I run Amsoil in the engine (5-30), transmission, transfer case, and differentials.

The third is the 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee my wife drives. I am running Amsoil in the engine (0-30), and differentials as of now but will soon have the transmission and transfer case switched as well.

I change engine oil and filter in my Cummins and Jeep once a year. It is simple you just go to Amsoil web sight and order the oil, filter, wiper blades, fuel filter, coolant, transmission fluid, or differential lube that the vehicle needs in it's next yearly service. Take a Saturday morning and the Jeep or truck is ready for another year of maintainers free driving. Yes I check my belts and hoses too and if they need changed they get it at the same time. I don't have to worry about swapping out bypass filters or any thing else for one year. It's a simple extended oil drain interval without a bypass filter and works well.



PS. If you went down and bought a brand new Mercedes Benz they would tell you to bring it in once a year for it's service and they don't care how many miles you drive in that year. They will change the Mobile-1 engine oil and filter and anything else that my be needed in the next year. Their customers now get another complete year of maintenance free driving.



Edward

 

[PRout]

I will not use butt wipe for a filter. (BTW which is yer favorite brand? The perfumed kind or the embossed?:-laf:-laf)

Please dont squeeze the Charmin. . :-laf:-laf

40,000 miles using "Butt Wipe" along with the dreaded "non-synthetic" oil. .

#ad

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Gary, You had to add that extra filtering system, that wasn't free. How many miles on your rig?

I've used the Frantz TP filters on about 6 vehicles thru the years - well over a quarter million miles - my dad used one on his cattle hauling truck for well OVER a million miles - no problems, just CLEAN oil - as PROVED by MANY oil analysis... :-laf



As far as THIS thread is concerned, and use of extended oil drains, I think you will find MOST owners using extended drain intervals are using one form of bypass filtration or another.



BUT, judging by your own obviously closed mind and lack of knowledge concerning use of TP and similar materials, please DON'T ever try one yourself, we prefer better informed and conscientious users for these... :-laf:-laf

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I change engine oil and filter in my Cummins and Jeep once a year. It is simple you just go to Amsoil web sight and order the oil, filter, wiper blades, fuel filter, coolant, transmission fluid, or differential lube that the vehicle needs in it's next yearly service. Take a Saturday morning and the Jeep or truck is ready for another year of maintainers free driving. Yes I check my belts and hoses too and if they need changed they get it at the same time. I don't have to worry about swapping out bypass filters or any thing else for one year. It's a simple extended oil drain interval without a bypass filter and works well.

YUP - and I'd bet you could do EXACTLY the same with any of the appropriate dino oils - and get the same results, at less cost!



The REAL comparison point between the 2 above practices, is what analysis would show between the synthetic and whatever decent dino lube you might use...

 

[GHarman]

Closed Minded? How about whatever works!

Gary, At this point it really doest matter which method you use. The engine in my Dodge will be operable when the sheet metal has fallen off. In 4 years I will be looking for another truck ( 20 year life span). I will continue to do the same with a new truck, within the design requirements, including the Amsoil in the engine and drivetrain. No thank you on the Franz TP "filter". Oh! and I do prefer the embossed. More surface area:-laf. Have fun. GregH

 

[Edward]

YUP - and I'd bet you could do EXACTLY the same with any of the appropriate dino oils - and get the same results, at less cost!



The REAL comparison point between the 2 above practices, is what analysis would show between the synthetic and whatever decent dino lube you might use...

No the real comparison would be to use a bypass filter on the synthetic as well as the dino juice. Apples and apples. Remember to get extended drain intervals with dino juice you must use a bypass oil filter. Not so with the synthetics. I did some checking into the costs and here is what I came up with. When you check with Amsoil they say to change their bypass filter every other time you change the engine filter. So you have to run the costs out over two years and divide by two, if you do an oil service once a year. When I did the math it came out right at $43. 00 each year in oil and filter costs using synthetics. That is doing it once a year.

It it's a personal choice to change that roll of TP every 6 to 8 weeks or do the service once a year. I estimate the yearly costs of changing the dino juice and TP to be about $35. 00 a year. That is a cost difference of $8. 00 a year if I am estimating correctly. To me dealing with the mess 5 or 6 times a year just isn't worth the cost difference.



Edward

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Gary, At this point it really doest matter which method you use. The engine in my Dodge will be operable when the sheet metal has fallen off. In 4 years I will be looking for another truck ( 20 year life span). I will continue to do the same with a new truck, within the design requirements, including the Amsoil in the engine and drivetrain. No thank you on the Franz TP "filter". Oh! and I do prefer the embossed. More surface area:-laf. Have fun. GregH

Yeah, I pretty much have to agree - simple use of plain oils and service intervals has taken these engines past the million mile mark - and the VAST majority of owners trade them of WAYYyyy before the engine even reaches its prime.



But, to some of us purist/enthusiasts, we gotta have that last little bit, for some it's the synthetics, and their climate and usage justifies it - others of us choose a good dino oil and upgraded filtering - whatever floats yer boat. And if we didn't appreciate our trucks more than "normal" owners, we wouldn't BE here on TDR, would we! :-laf:-laf:-laf



Cheers to all!

 

[Hobart]

The major reason I use a synthetic is to keep the noise level down as much as possible . Huge difference between Dino and synthetic what ever kind I use. Less noise must mean something - more cushening to the moving parts maybe?

 

[Duluth Diesel]

No the real comparison would be to use a bypass filter on the synthetic as well as the dino juice. Apples and apples. Remember to get extended drain intervals with dino juice you must use a bypass oil filter. Not so with the synthetics. I did some checking into the costs and here is what I came up with. When you check with Amsoil they say to change their bypass filter every other time you change the engine filter. So you have to run the costs out over two years and divide by two, if you do an oil service once a year. When I did the math it came out right at $43. 00 each year in oil and filter costs using synthetics. That is doing it once a year.

It it's a personal choice to change that roll of TP every 6 to 8 weeks or do the service once a year. I estimate the yearly costs of changing the dino juice and TP to be about $35. 00 a year. That is a cost difference of $8. 00 a year if I am estimating correctly. To me dealing with the mess 5 or 6 times a year just isn't worth the cost difference.



Edward

That's true. You can bypass filter a conventional oil and stretch the intervals out. Synthetics, specifically Group IV synthetics, are engineered to last longer still. Running just a full flow filter (no bypass) with AMSOIL is good for 15k miles under severe service and 25k under normal service on these Cummins engines. With a bypass system, you can easily go beyond 30k under severe service. AMSOIL ran a Mack class 8 truck 409,000 miles just doing bypass filter changes and oil top-offs. The engine showed no more than normal wear.



-Chuck

 

[PRout]

I have used Amsoil in the past also with good results. Don't have anything against it. It is better if you are operating in extreme conditions, theres no doubt about it. I still would recommend some sort of bypass filter if a person were to go for the extended drain intervals no matter what type oil they are using just to keep it as clean as possible.

The three reasons why I went back to Delo 400 were, I have always been concerned with the penetration of synthetic oils through your seals (more chance for oil leaks), the cost vs need (Living in a non cold climate), and third, I like to burn the used oil as fuel since I circulate it through a separate frantz filter for a while before transferring it to the main tank.

Again, nothing against Amsoil syn, it is good stuff no doubt. But Delo works out better for my way of doing things. I dont like Rosmella though - at all. . Peeyoo!