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Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

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Swepco Gear Oil

RedRam401 said:
Gary,

I ordered my filter from EBay today after reading this thread and will install it on my 04. 5 as soon as I get it.



Chuck





Chuck ... ck my pics. I mounted mine "lid down". Makes for clean filter changing. Another benefit has been tracking down leaks. I've had to tighten the center attach point twice now & when it leaked, it just leaked on the filter.

:)





Forrest
 
"My main question now is which oil to use in my CTD?



Is the RotelaT 15/40 a good choice?"



I currently use Delo 400 15/40, but the very best oil analysis from the past - displayed further up this thread - was with Rotella...



AS to the restriction size on the outlet side of the filter, one of the pics I posted at the beginning of this thread shows mine, 1/8 inch - but 1/16 will do fine as well, just will create slower flow and possibly better filtering...



Actually, my current Frantz filter has the restriction on the INLET side, right at the fitting coming off the top of the stock oil filter housing - that way, high oil pressure is not applied directly to the Frantz filter canister, and less chance for leakage than if the restriction was downstream of the Frantz, creating higher internal oil pressure... ;)
 
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re: oil ... I have a theory as oil relates to the Frantz. As soon as the temps got cold, I developed a leak around where the canister seals. Thicker oil? I'm going to synthetic & see if that works better.
 
Do you have a return leak?

Noticed last nite that I have developed a oil leak thought the timing pin o-ring, not much but enough to make the left side of my engine a sludgy mess. It is a slow seep. My return line is the Amzoil adapter through the oil fill cap. So, looks like to me the gears are slinging the oil and hence the seep. I'm going to change the O-ring, see if this will help. what other way can I return the oil to the crank case short of the oil pan puncture? I know the turbo return was mentioned. How about a banjo bolt in the place of the hold down bolt, top of the valve cover? I have about 2,000 miles on the install. Been watching for leaks in the obvious places, but not in this place.

Marv.
 
"I'm going to change the O-ring, see if this will help. what other way can I return the oil to the crank case short of the oil pan puncture? "



I don't quite understand why you would want to change the current oil return path, since THAT is not where the seepage is coming from. Quite a few of us are using the same return setup you are, with NO leakage there, OR at the location your leakage seems to orignate...
 
I've got to figure out why mine is leaking, around the canister to bottom seal. I removed the TP, figuring it was causing "back pressure", with thick winter oil. It helped, but didn't fix it all the way.



My hoses are ok. The one in the middle of the Frantz housing started leaking, so I tightened it up, ok now. Just the darn V-Clam area that's leaking.



Think I'll clean it all up & re-load the TP & see what happens.
 
Forrest, I have spare O-rings, and a spare filter canister I can send you if you'd like to eliminate possibilities...



For that matter, I have a complete spare Filter setup, including base...
 
new frantz filter

well i did my first filter change yesterday and added oil. i never changed the oil at the outset. i just added the filter and drove. after the first 500 miles the filter was black. and so was the oil. put the new filter in and drove accross town to a friends house and checked it. i could see thu to the dipstick. pretty impressive for oil with 2500 miles on it. my friend has an 05 dually and had just changed his oil and it looks like tar after less than a 1000 miles. pretty funny too since he scoffed at my filter til he saw the difference between the 2 trucks, now he wants one. :-laf
 
WOW! Great thread. I'd used the Frantz filters many years ago and loved them. When I started on my Ford/Cummins swap 4 years ago, I purchased a used and updated one from a dealer in Az..... This has been a great reminder to get my butt in gear and install it. Thanx... ... .
 
Forrest said:
I just changed my toilet paper yesterday. :cool:



Forrest;

On the instructions it says to rotate the sealing gasket 1/4 turn every forth change? something like that. I just feel that if it stays hard to lock up the ring it should be good to go. Do you have the snap together ring or the screw closure? I also have noticed when using the scotts TT that there is a little more oil residue to take care of as the cover is removed due to the "O" rings I use to shim up the extra space. Maybe the adapter that I made will take care of this. See my readers rigs for the Pictures I put in there. Its time to change and clean.

Marv.
 
Mornin Marv.





I've got the screw closure ... V band clamp. Works fine. My problem was the O-ring ... just was old & tired. We be leakless now.



Interesting on the 1/4 turn, thanks, didn't know that. Instructions ... suppose to read those? :-laf :eek: I'll have to do that next time ... nuther 5k miles to go. :)





Forrest
 
Ya, it is in the instructions. I don't move mine. Never had a problem. I replaced the o-ring this last time. It was starting to get hard. This last time, was change #4.



I have the screw type also.



Got my filter throught the TDR group purchase. :D
 
I've read 375 replys to this thread, thinking somewhere there was going to be an explaination as to how to connect the Frantz filter to the Amsoil bypass. Can this be done?
 
TimG said:
I've read 375 replys to this thread, thinking somewhere there was going to be an explaination as to how to connect the Frantz filter to the Amsoil bypass. Can this be done?



Why would you even WANT to connect one bypass filter to another?



And that was never the intent or goal of this thread to begin with...
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
Why would you even WANT to connect one bypass filter to another?



And that was never the intent or goal of this thread to begin with...









I wanted to know if the Frantz TP filter could take the place of the Amsoil Dual Bypass spin on filter, not running them parallel. And the reason I ask is because my oil is black and everyone responding to the Frantz filter sayes it cleans the oil back to the way it looked when it was poured out of the bottle.
 
No need to run 2 seperate by-pass filters. Just because the oil isn't visually clear, doesn't mean the oil isn't still good.



I run the Frantz myself. My oil isn't clear. It is dark, but not as dark as not having the filter. My truck is smoker, and the filter has its work cut out for it.



We have 2 Mack trucks at work. They come factory with a filter that works the same as the Spinner ii. www.spinnerii.com Same thing there. Oil is still dark.



Now, if your truck burns clean, with minimal smoke, then yes, the oil should be pretty clear.
 
TimG said:
I wanted to know if the Frantz TP filter could take the place of the Amsoil Dual Bypass spin on filter, not running them parallel. And the reason I ask is because my oil is black and everyone responding to the Frantz filter sayes it cleans the oil back to the way it looked when it was poured out of the bottle.
Color of oil has little bearing of the condition of the oil. If you changed the Amsoil element every two to three thousand miles and added oil like those using the Frantz, your oil would not look as black.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
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