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Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

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AFE rep said the BHAF was a piece of...

Swepco Gear Oil

Ok, thanks guys for the extra info. It looks like a more professional unit, but without tests to back it looks mean very little.



If I put this Frantz unit on my new out of the box 08 truck that I'm getting, should I wait for a bit first for the engine to break in for fear that it might filter too well and not allow proper engine break in, similar to the issues found if synthetic is run in an engine that is not yet broken in?
 
New is where you'll get the most wear particles... and it will still break in regardless of how clean or what kind the oil is.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I've also been waiting back for an email from Dodge to hear about what they have to say about warranties and these things, the FASS and after market air boxes. I haven't heard anything yet. The last thing I want to do is jeopardize my warranty. Any advice in regards to this? I'm thinking maybe it might be best for me to wait until I move and then talk to the new Dodge dealer that I would be dealing with if any services issues came up. I hear that for the most point voiding warranties or allowing non-performance mods is at the discretion of the dealer.
 
It depends on how friendly you are with your dealer. My dealer told me flat out that if they could prove that what I had put on my '05 had caused the failure, then they would void that part of the warranty... . the whole warranty does not get voided. Doesn't make much sense to void the warranty on your interior, if you have a timing box.
 
It depends on how friendly you are with your dealer. My dealer told me flat out that if they could prove that what I had put on my '05 had caused the failure, then they would void that part of the warranty... . the whole warranty does not get voided. Doesn't make much sense to void the warranty on your interior, if you have a timing box.



YUP - I agree - adding on ANY bypass not authorized or supplied directly by DC or Cummins leaves the owner vulnerable - and regardless of the highly revered (by some... ) "Magnussen-Moss" owner protection, it inevitably requires time and $$$ from the owner to fight a dealer or DC.



And it isn't just bypass filters, that can apply to most ANY non-DC add-on.
 
Some of that "Sweating" is caused by the fact the return oil is being returned too close to the top of the valve cover, and the pressures within the engine will make the oil "Sweat" around the cap. This can be eliminated if you "Extend the return on the fitting" by screwing a fitting on it. I use a

1/8"X1/4" BUSHING on the end of the swivel fitting.



I have done this on several trucks, and it seems to work.



Wayne

amsoilman





Still haven't added the extension yet, but picked up a amsoil billet valve cover cap used on bitog. In two weeks or so the cap has stayed clean. But when I get around to it I will add the extension.
 
Lf 9028

judy@cummins is very quick on the email. 1hr quick.

They don't make the Venturi Combo for our trucks. Standard, Cellulose Media, and the upgraded, Stratapore Media. The Venturi combo also has the Stratapore Media.

Geno's has tried getting the Venturi Combo in, but "it never went anywere". We now see why, Cummins doesn't make it for our trucks...


Looked over there application pdf and found this filter for a kubota,LF9028. Dimensions are within . 01 and it is the only filter with the right thread type. It will fit, just need to find out if it flows enough. They have one for the 7. 3l powerstoke though:rolleyes: LF9027
 
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I believe the 7. 3 was used in a DT international truck configuration, which would explain why it is listed, but I am definitely surprised that the Cummins 5. 9 doesn't have a listing as it is such a universal platform. What about the new 6. 7?
 
Here is my newly installed $2. 00 garage sale frantz filter with new gasket, new toilet paper, stainless steel feed line, to a ball valve then to the oil fill cap with an air line fitting and a air type quick disconnect(thanks to the help of a fellow on this site) threaded to the solid stant oil cap. I decided to mount mine to the alternator bracket and has worked fine for the last 5000 miles. ED



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I remembered reading about the blue towels being wraped around the roll, and was wondering if you took the extra that would be on top, [with out trimming to roll size] if this would do any good or produce any more restriction, filtering, but leave the opening for the tube and oil flow?

just wondering.
 
I remembered reading about the blue towels being wraped around the roll, and was wondering if you took the extra that would be on top, [with out trimming to roll size] if this would do any good or produce any more restriction, filtering, but leave the opening for the tube and oil flow?

just wondering.





Looking at my Frantz, I'd suspect you'd start to run into issues with room inside the canister??
 
I remembered reading about the blue towels being wraped around the roll, and was wondering if you took the extra that would be on top, [with out trimming to roll size] if this would do any good or produce any more restriction, filtering, but leave the opening for the tube and oil flow?

just wondering.



I doubt there's any way that so much TP or paper towel type material could be packed so tightly as to cause significant reduction in oil flow - as far as I'm concerned, the tighter the better - but as Steve points out there's limited "open" room for any additional material, and any more that might be added isn't likely to make much difference, overall...
 
If that paper was just folded over there is still plenty nuff room on top. It would not take up any room. If you notice the difference how far the roll is in when first installed, and and when you remove to change the roll, seams to be 1/4-3/8 plus inches. As usual just food for thought, and I was just wondering.

Gary, thanks for all your assistence and advise, as we all have became more informed.
 
Figured I'd dig this up and give an update of what I've done since first installing a bypass...



Started with an Amsoil BE90 and mount from eBay which I liked, until they changed the filters to the current EaBP series, and I didn't see the same results.



From there I changed to a Gulf Coast Filter (GCF) 0-1 that used paper towels... ran this for over 100k miles using either Rotella or Schaeffers.



Decided recently to change things up again. About 10k ago I changed from the GCF to a Baldwin B50. Used my existing plumbing, and just put the B50 in place of the GCF. The base (from Wix) cost me $30, and each Baldwin filter is about $5.



I did replace the plumbing yesterday however... I actually had a brass barb fitting fracture and break off when I was installing the B50, which left me feeling uneasy as ALL my fittings were brass. I attribute this to the fact brass can't handle "flexing" like steel. I ordered pre-made hydraulic hoses and the fittings to replumb the entire system in steel and swedged fittings... this cost me about $60 from SurplusCenter.com, which is a very neat place to check out. I actually, by chance, ordered an extra hose to make my setup fit properly, and was able to use it to reinstall my oil cooler in the system. FWIW, my hydraulic hose at 100k looked like I had just installed it... still flexible, still pliable, works great for this application since its extremely tough (not to mention my GCF was mounted under the bed of the truck, so I had a very long run of hose).



So far, using both Rotella 15w40 (first 5k) and Schaeffers 5w40 (last 5k), the oil seems to be staying in a visually better condition than the GCF (still fairly "clear" after 5k miles). And after seeing the return flow volume of the B50, I might understand why: I had made my own restriction, which pinched the flow back to under a quart a minute. The B50 has a built in restriction that flows probably a gallon a minute at idle (1/16" orifice)... so its probably circulating the sump a lot more often than my GCF was... and even if the GCF was better filtration, if it wasn't able to keep up because I had the flow pinched back; it would never seem to filter as well.



All in all, I like both the B50 and the GCF, I would recommend either one for a add-on bypass filter. Oh, and even though the B50 has a higher flow, it does not affect oil pressure at idle; which indicates to me the oil pump in these engines is very robust... I have a real oil pressure gauge in the supply line to the B50. And to add; the B50 with all new plumbing, the base, and filter was around $100 to install.
 
Gary,



Nice post!



I have been using Frantz Filters since the early 60's on various vehicles. They are by far the best and easiest to use. When I got my first Cummins '89, I was at the local Cummins West shop and talked to them about the Frantz Filter. No problem, I took in to the shop, had already mounted the mounting bracket and they used the 1/8" plug on top of the OEM filter housing, made the hose connection and removed the return tube from the turbo to tap in for the return. I also nad one of the transmission.



My current '04, I'm running 2 filters in parallel. The standard pressure point from the top of the OEM filter and a self tapping hollow bolt into the pan for the return. Nice clean install.



One thing Gary, the 1/8" hole in the center of the tube is the pressure inlet and the outlet is about 1/16" under the screens. That is how you get the pressure to compress the roll of TP.



I like your "O" ring idea for the tube since the new rolls of TP have a larger center core. I will have to try it. We Filter It has a metal pipe you slide over the original tube and then the TP will seal.
 
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