Here I am

Another '22

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I also order when I use consumables too many times I've had the time to do a service and could not get them, or did not want to chase them down. (especially during Covid).. I keep everything, filters, oil, etc in stock in my shop for all vehicles, much less stress IMHO.

That's what I do. I keep at least 2-3 oil/filter/fuel filter changes in my shelf. It doesn't take a lot of room either.

You never know what life will bring you tomorrow, and I may need to go across the country in an emergency, and I can take the items off the shelf, throw it in the truck and go on my way and not worry. Do it all in some random parking lot if absolutely had to.

Less stress when all parts are on hand.
 
Mission accomplished on the filter. Dealer had one on the shelf.

You pay for it, but it's my own doing so at least I have a legit one and will roll the dice on that Amazon one tonight when it pops in.

Date is 4/28/22 on the box.

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So the results are in.........

But first here is the Genos guide to filters they posted, with the disclaimer these folks doing this are getting better and better so this is not the end all to be all.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...rs-buyers-beware-updated.274822/#post-2729631


Per that guideline and what I see in front of me this exact Amazon Fliter is............ a legit filter.... your results may vary and if you only have one filter to compare too, it would be hard.

Not being a cost issue I feel I will stick with Geno's, it was a time deal here for me for not planning ahead.

Good news Dealers have these they just cost alot more. I will install the Dealer one since it's physically older then the Amazon one.

Here are some pics the only difference the Amazon bag had a Green Dot on the outside of the filter on the plastic.

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@Timd32, Is the type set on the dealership filter slanted to the left? that could be a way to tell if counterfeit or not. With all the issues that I've heard about filters from Amazon, I'd be very leery of using any filter from them, regardless of who is selling person! I'd send it back and place order with Genos ahead of time for the next change. I keep 1 set on the shelf until about a month before I'm going to do the maintenance, then order what I'll need for the next time and anything else from Genos. I've got the Femco oil drain valve on the truck, and carry a drain tube in the truck along with one in the toolbox drawer along with other special tools need for the home fleet!
 
@Timd32, Is the type set on the dealership filter slanted to the left? that could be a way to tell if counterfeit or not. With all the issues that I've heard about filters from Amazon, I'd be very leery of using any filter from them, regardless of who is selling person! I'd send it back and place order with Genos ahead of time for the next change. I keep 1 set on the shelf until about a month before I'm going to do the maintenance, then order what I'll need for the next time and anything else from Genos. I've got the Femco oil drain valve on the truck, and carry a drain tube in the truck along with one in the toolbox drawer along with other special tools need for the home fleet!
I ordered the Femco with my stuff, it arrived yesterday.

Yes the letters are slightly slanted on the Dealer filter.
 
Looks legit to me.
Even the paint marks on the yellow are pretty exact, the way it raises the small bumps on the letters and the sort. I would run it.

I finally recalled how I got into this situation, I knew the 12mo rule and was super close on the 15k milage, but then somehow I convinced my self that doing to oil and filters prior to Winter storage did not make much sense and the spring time would be better to do the swap and change before the season. But then I forgot about the 12mo deal and just let it sit and started it a few times ever so many weeks.

First world issues for sure having too many Rams to drive.

Will get it all sorted. It's still cold here in NJ and 3.5" of rain scheduled for the weekend, so will be next week sometime before I get too this one.
 
I can't see how Amazon sells fakes direct to consumer, I can see "sellers" on Amazon selling fakes with out Amazon direct knowledge, but knowingly selling counterfeit stuff is crazy to me.

IMO, what Amazon does is kind of turn a blind eye to it. If a vendor says it's OEM, they take their word for it until they get enough complaints to actually do due diligence.

I'm pretty sure Amazon doesn't get their fakes from their vendors; I think they get into the system via other sellers on Amazon in the following manner:

When I was selling on Amazon I had Amazon do my fulfillment; costs me a little more but makes things way easier. That way people could by "from me" and still use Prime; I never had to package and ship anything direct to the buyer.

I had my merchandise delivered directly to Amazon by my vendor (wholesaler); Amazon would then redistribute my product among their warehouses anywhere in the country as they see fit (probably determined via some AI routine in their cloud). For sake of this example let's assume they send all of my product to Amazon warehouses in the Pacific Northwest region. Lets assume all of the product purchased by Amazon from their vendor get sent to warehouses in New England. Finally, let's say the product from all other random sellers get sent to other parts of the country, including product from a counterfeiter. Suppose this hypothetical counterfeiter's merchandise all gets sent to the warehouse that serves Miami, Florida. Amazon's computer would then "co-mingle" Amazon's product, my product and the product from other random sellers, including the counterfeiter; in other words, all these items become fungible. That way, when someone buys one of those items from any seller (including from Amazon) and they want it delivered in Miami, Florida, Amazon fulfills that order with product from the Miami, Florida warehouse, and that person receives the fake.

And that's how even Amazon (as a seller) might end up selling you a counterfeit.
 
I'm pretty sure Amazon doesn't get their fakes from their vendors; I think they get into the system via other sellers on Amazon in the following manner:

When I was selling on Amazon I had Amazon do my fulfillment; costs me a little more but makes things way easier. That way people could by "from me" and still use Prime; I never had to package and ship anything direct to the buyer.

I had my merchandise delivered directly to Amazon by my vendor (wholesaler); Amazon would then redistribute my product among their warehouses anywhere in the country as they see fit (probably determined via some AI routine in their cloud). For sake of this example let's assume they send all of my product to Amazon warehouses in the Pacific Northwest region. Lets assume all of the product purchased by Amazon from their vendor get sent to warehouses in New England. Finally, let's say the product from all other random sellers get sent to other parts of the country, including product from a counterfeiter. Suppose this hypothetical counterfeiter's merchandise all gets sent to the warehouse that serves Miami, Florida. Amazon's computer would then "co-mingle" Amazon's product, my product and the product from other random sellers, including the counterfeiter; in other words, all these items become fungible. That way, when someone buys one of those items from any seller (including from Amazon) and they want it delivered in Miami, Florida, Amazon fulfills that order with product from the Miami, Florida warehouse, and that person receives the fake.

And that's how even Amazon (as a seller) might end up selling you a counterfeit.
Thanks for the insight for sure.

All the more reason to keep the TDR post on fakes handy. It's useful for so many reasons.

And expect it to change.
 
Finally got around to ordering up some fluids, went with the local NAPA as they sponsor a friends late model, so was not really a $$ decision, prices were not horrible some was on sale not all of it and used a coupon.

Kinda limited in the fully synthetic 10w30 for Diesels decided on the Mobil Delvac

Mobil:
Mobil Delvac Extreme Motor Oil 10W30 Heavy Duty Diesel 1 gal (US) x 4 gal, since I don't have any on the shelf gives me an extra.

It was not super easy to find the data sheet on that stuff but eventually I got it. Numbers seen on par with others out there, nothing major missing or way off base, meets the CK-4 and Cummins CES 20081.

Then going with the following:
Valvoline
Front and Rear Diff: SYN GEAR OIL 75W90 QT x 8 bag QT

Power Steering: ATF+4 x 2 QT, need a little on the shelf for another project.
 

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Finally got around to ordering up some fluids, went with the local NAPA as they sponsor a friends late model, so was not really a $$ decision, prices were not horrible some was on sale not all of it and used a coupon.

Kinda limited in the fully synthetic 10w30 for Diesels decided on the Mobil Delvac

Mobil:
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super Motor Oil 10W30 Heavy Duty Diesel 1 gal (US) x 4 gal, since I don't have any on the shelf gives me an extra.

It was not super easy to find the data sheet on that stuff but eventually I got it. Numbers seen on par with others out there, nothing major missing or way off base, meets the CK-4 and Cummins CES 20081.

Then going with the following:
Valvoline
Front and Rear Diff: SYN GEAR OIL 75W90 QT x 8 bag QT

Power Steering: ATF+4 x 2 QT, need a little on the shelf for another project.


You mentioned Delvac 1300, but gave specs for Delvac Extreme. They are two different oils.

Delvac 1300 is a synthetic blend, as most 10w-30’s are, and the Extreme is a full synthetic.

Which one did you get?
 
Extreme, will edit that good catch.

That's what makes the 10w30 tricky even the Valvoline Premium Blue the 10w30 appears to be a blend. And not sure all the specs on their regular full synthetic so I skipped that and went with the Mobil.

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Extreme, will edit that good catch.

That's what makes the 10w30 tricky even the Valvoline Premium Blue the 10w30 appears to be a blend. And not sure all the specs on their regular full synthetic so I skipped that and went with the Mobil.

View attachment 140259

AFIK all 10w-30’s are either semi-synthetic or fully synthetic, with full synthetic being much less common.
 
AFIK all 10w-30’s are either semi-synthetic or fully synthetic, with full synthetic being much less common.

Yep, they are all probably fine to run at the end of the day.

I just stuck with the "OR" for the API CK-4 or Cummins CES 20081 edit looks like 81 is pretty old and 20086 is the newer one, some don't list anything about Diesel engines and the magic letters and numbers that's bound to change before we know it.

From submar. Com
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Just for fun I pulled this from All Data seems outdated a little bit....

In ambient temperatures above 0°F (-18°C), we recommend you use 10W-30 engine oil such as Mopar, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CK-4 engine oil category is required. Products meeting Cummins CES 20081 may also be used. The identification of these engine oils is typically located on the back of the oil container.

I will check a few bottles when I pick this stuff up.
 
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Yep, they are all probably fine to run at the end of the day.

I just stuck with the "OR" for the API CK-4 or Cummins CES 20081 edit looks like 81 is pretty old and 20086 is the newer one, some don't list anything about Diesel engines and the magic letters and numbers that's bound to change before we know it.

From submar. Com
View attachment 140260


Just for fun I pulled this from All Data seems outdated a little bit....

In ambient temperatures above 0°F (-18°C), we recommend you use 10W-30 engine oil such as Mopar, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CK-4 engine oil category is required. Products meeting Cummins CES 20081 may also be used. The identification of these engine oils is typically located on the back of the oil container.

I will check a few bottles when I pick this stuff up.


Not outdated, it’s saying CJ oil may be used… but CK is preferred.

CJ oil is junk, IMO. Luckily I haven’t seen it for sale since CK oil was introduced.
 
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