Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Hey guys,
I finally put that TST kit to some good use this weekend and tabbed my KDP. The truck has just over 100k on it. The pin was probably about 1/8" out and was pretty hard to tap back in. None of the case bolts were loose, but I took them all out, Loc-tite'd them, and re-torqued them to 18lb-ft. The whole job took a leisurely 6 hours spread out over two days.
I followed the TST instructions exactly and everything went pretty smooth except for that 4th fan support bolt that is behind the pulley. TST suggests using an open end 10mm and tapping on it with a hammer. No good there, just succeeded in rounding off a corner. Then they suggested grinding down a wrench and slipping it in between the pulley and the bolt. The only cheap 10mm I could find (I didn't want to sacrifice my Craftsman) at Advance was 12-point. That just managed to round off a few more corners. I finally used my brain, and removed the six 10mm bolts securing the pulley, which allowed it to move forward out of the way enough for me to put a full-size 10mm 6-point on that bolt and then tap it with a hammer enough to break it loose. I highly suggest just unbolting the pulley from the beginning. Take a marker and make a line on the pulley and the hex hub to make lining up the bolt holes easier for re-assembly.
If you need to change your coolant, or your rad. hoses, or just for the heck of it, removing the top rad. hose would give you a lot more room to work.
Go ahead and scrape and clean the outside of the cover with brake clean before removing it. It makes for a much nicer job and prevents any crap from falling in the gear case when you pull it.
The grey gasket maker works nice, just make sure and wipe off the excess after you torque the bolts down to make a neater looking job.
Taking the fan assembly and shroud out is a PITA. Get a friend to help you and make sure to cover the rad. with a piece of cardboard to protect the fins.
I didn't have a . 049 - . 051 blade in my gauge set for air-gapping the RPM sensor. I screwed around a little with a plug gapping loop, then my brain engaged and I found 3 blades that were next to each other that added up to . 048 and set it just slightly loose with that. Duh...
Thats all I can think of for now. Hope this helps someone
It seems to be holding oil nicely and there weren't any leftover parts so I guess I did a good job. I was feeling so good afterwards that I went ahead and cranked my star-wheel back about 60 clicks in 20 click increments with test drives in between. Now we are having more fun at stop lights :-laf
I finally put that TST kit to some good use this weekend and tabbed my KDP. The truck has just over 100k on it. The pin was probably about 1/8" out and was pretty hard to tap back in. None of the case bolts were loose, but I took them all out, Loc-tite'd them, and re-torqued them to 18lb-ft. The whole job took a leisurely 6 hours spread out over two days.
I followed the TST instructions exactly and everything went pretty smooth except for that 4th fan support bolt that is behind the pulley. TST suggests using an open end 10mm and tapping on it with a hammer. No good there, just succeeded in rounding off a corner. Then they suggested grinding down a wrench and slipping it in between the pulley and the bolt. The only cheap 10mm I could find (I didn't want to sacrifice my Craftsman) at Advance was 12-point. That just managed to round off a few more corners. I finally used my brain, and removed the six 10mm bolts securing the pulley, which allowed it to move forward out of the way enough for me to put a full-size 10mm 6-point on that bolt and then tap it with a hammer enough to break it loose. I highly suggest just unbolting the pulley from the beginning. Take a marker and make a line on the pulley and the hex hub to make lining up the bolt holes easier for re-assembly.
If you need to change your coolant, or your rad. hoses, or just for the heck of it, removing the top rad. hose would give you a lot more room to work.
Go ahead and scrape and clean the outside of the cover with brake clean before removing it. It makes for a much nicer job and prevents any crap from falling in the gear case when you pull it.
The grey gasket maker works nice, just make sure and wipe off the excess after you torque the bolts down to make a neater looking job.
Taking the fan assembly and shroud out is a PITA. Get a friend to help you and make sure to cover the rad. with a piece of cardboard to protect the fins.
I didn't have a . 049 - . 051 blade in my gauge set for air-gapping the RPM sensor. I screwed around a little with a plug gapping loop, then my brain engaged and I found 3 blades that were next to each other that added up to . 048 and set it just slightly loose with that. Duh...
Thats all I can think of for now. Hope this helps someone
It seems to be holding oil nicely and there weren't any leftover parts so I guess I did a good job. I was feeling so good afterwards that I went ahead and cranked my star-wheel back about 60 clicks in 20 click increments with test drives in between. Now we are having more fun at stop lights :-laf
