I do it from the top and sometimes have to go below and work my arm up the bell housing if the clamp gets positioned where I can't get a good angle from the top. If you take the time to remove the starter (12 pt 10mm socket) it allows for much more access. Also I recommend removal of the fuel filter assy/ canister assy.
You can remove the filter assy for either type (spin on 94-96 and use the longer return line) and 97-98's have the drop in filter for better access, the later of these often had the 24v style supply/return's stubbed up on the block in antipation of the 24V. On this arrangement, a short 8" +/- piece of return line is used.
http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114425
I use a nut driver, 7mm socket, a 1/4 drive 3" ext and 6" ext and a 1/4 drive ratchet and a sharp (new) razor blade to slit the hose once the clamps are off, I've also used a carpenter's utility knife on the pump end.
After you do a few you get the hang of it. I've had good luck with Fuel Injection hose, vs. the 30R9 el cheapo spec hose that several have mentioned changing out several times.
On the white smoke? stumble complaint:
The fuel heater and pre filter strainer, gaskets as well as the 90 deg. hose from the lift pump pre-filter can cause this. Outta spec overflow valve (breaking off the pressure too soon). .
Also if the condition is depend on varing fuel tank levels the plastic lines attached to the tank module could have a pin hole etc. .
I've been changing alot of fuel filters lately with the ULSD, its detergent abilities seems to be scrubbing the fuel systems and restricting the filters more quickly.
Good luck
Andy