Here I am

Atwood water heater drain?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Check your furnace, possible hazard

Aux. Fuel tank valve ? ?

If anyone has the atwood 6 gallon Water heater, is the White/clear plastic plug on the lower left hand side the drain for the unit??? I also noticed that the manufacturer of my trailer installed a BYPASS valve that extends out of the bottom of the trailer... Could I drain it using either method??



How do I maintain the "Air pocket" at the top of the tank so it will stop dripping? Thanks!:cool:
 
Atwoods with aluminum tanks use a plastic drain plug and advise against substituing with metal ones. Those models do not have sacrificial anodes. I'd use the plug to drain the tank, running water in through the drain hole to rinse it out at least monthly to remove any residue in the tank.



I got this info from the Atwood web site.



Dan
 
p. s.

Periodically draining the tank should allow the air pocket to restore itself. Just run the hot water tap long enough to purge the air. There will still be enough to allow for expansion. If you drive with the pump on, the rocking can cause it to disipate so if the Temp/Pressure Relief valve drips, try draining it out again and start over, Those valves sometimes do begin leaking and need replacement though.



Dan



Dan
 
I drain mine by opening the relief valve, then the hot water "low" point drain. Also leave all the hot water faucets open. Seems to work well. Also, I have heard it is NOT a good idea to put a little antifreeze in the hot water tank for the little bit of water that will still be in there.
 
Thanks a lot! I will drain the tank today by removing the plastic plug. When I refill I will leave the hot water faucets open in the trailer. .
 
How do I maintain the "Air pocket" at the top of the tank so it will stop dripping? Thanks!:cool:



roperteacher,



You can't maintain the air pocket in the water heater. There are two reasons.



First: The hot water from the water heater is drawn from the top of the tank, therefore when you use hot water you are bleeding the air pocket.



Second: Air dissolves in water. Eventually, unless you are draining and refilling your water heater every month or so, all the air in the tank will dissolve into the water and the air pocket will be gone. This is the reason that pressure tanks for well water systems have a bladder. If your trailer has an accumulator in the water system it has a bladder too.



Loren
 
I guess I never read the manual! I have had bad luck with those plastic plugs, so I replace it with one of those quarter turn valves. No more fighting that plastic POS to drain each winter. So far I have never had a problem with that.
 
Atwoods with aluminum tanks use a plastic drain plug and advise against substituing with metal ones. Those models do not have sacrificial anodes. I'd use the plug to drain the tank, running water in through the drain hole to rinse it out at least monthly to remove any residue in the tank.



I got this info from the Atwood web site.



Dan



My experience with changing the plug supports this advice.



After chewing up the hexagonal flats on the nylon plug, I changed mine to a standard steel pipe plug a few years back. The following winter I couldn't remove the plug. I eventually got it out by drilling and cutting and picking with screwdrivers and an ice pick. It took HOURS! It appeared that the steel and aluminum created corrosion that bonded the plug to the tank fitting.



I then installed a brass plug with anti-seize on the threads. This worked well for a few years.



I got concerned about corrosion and finally found an aluminum pipe plug. It also stuck in place and required extreme measures to remove it.



I eventually installed a tap, like those on older radiators. A quarter-turn valve wouldn't fit; the door wouldn't close.



The tap was supposed to allow me to drain the water heater without a wrench. As it turned out, I still need a pair of pliers to open the tap. Oh, well.



If I had it to do all over again, I would stick with the brass plug with anti-seize, although the tap works okay too. The nylon plug would probably work as long as you don't screw it in too tightly.



Loren
 
Back
Top